Moschino SS17 : Peppered with Paper Dolls

by Bianca Hill

In a world overrun with Instagram celebrities and fame induced consumerism not many designers are able to poke fun at the cartoonish culture of excess while selling the same cartoonish culture to the masses as a form of artistic subversion. Moschino tows that line too well and at times to its detriment. The SS17 collection had everything that is good about Moschino. It provided mind blowingly amusing, whimsical clothes and made models like Gigi Hadid, Irina Shyak seem like they are there to plug Moschino not the other way around. That in itself is a testament to the strong collection Moschino produced this collection. Trompe-l'œil prints with paper dolls in 2D waking towards you is visually worthy of the intrigue Moschino always offers and we were intrigued. Ultimately this collection was an emphatic Yes! to Moschi-No ! 

 

Victoria's Secret and it's Super Model Gatekeepers

by Sylvia Stoss

On any given year we cover few hundred runway shows in four different continents. So we are more or less used to what is thrown our way. That is why Victoria's Secret shows are so wonderful in breaking out the monotony of fashion weeks and the lull in between. 

And like every year, this year Victoria's Secret provided the highlight of the year in terms of sheer showmanship. Lady Gaga and the Weekend were responsible for the sonic experience through the aesthetic experience of seeing Spanish inspired see through wraps to outright french lace lingerie was overwhelming and worth taking a second look and worth buying into. 

Lanvin SS17: Blue My Mind

by Olivia Moreau 

Bouchara Jarrar has a tough job. She needs to move Lanvin forward while paying homage to it's substantial history. So when she moved the location of the spring summer collection to the ornate Hotel de Ville we knew that she knew the gravity of her role as the creative machine behind one of France's most iconic fashion houses. Inside the majestic de Ville, Lanvin unleashed a collection worthy of its history and laid a foundation for its future. From feather trimmed jackets to uber-sexy white suits to the signature blue, it all came together as a cohesive, strong collection that suggested Lanvin's appeal evolving to a bigger consumer base. 

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Olivia Moreau is a Sorbonne educated parisian fashion journalist and blogger. She routinely writes on the history of aesthetics and it's relationship to fashion. 

 

Chanel SS17 : Midnight in Paris

By Olivia Moreau & Lotus Ladegaard

Karl Lagerfeld has successfully moved Chanel from a brand that was dated into a fast moving juggernaut. He has done so while preserving Chanel's very french chic' appeal and its history. And this collection is a testament to his ability to move forward without leaving the past behind.

The Chanel SS17 collection was consistently Chanel and the philosophy that drives Karl's work. Every look was kept very fresh and youthful mixing classic Chanel designs with modern pieces. He integrated some of the classic Chanel suits and drapes into a modern frame and when older designs came through, they came through with newer fabrics and prints. The usual neutral colors complemented by bold prints created a narrative of an evolving fashion house which understands its history, its role and above all its appeal. In fact, the collection featured a little bit for any kind of woman; from the fashion-forward woman to the formal business woman and from the edgy city girl who prefers street couture to the resort or beach girl who prefers flowy dresses and easy-to-wear pieces. Chanel’s SS17 collection offered something for everyone and every body type. In many way Chanel is the most accessible high couture brands in the world and this collections provided enough evidence that is not going to change anytime soon. 

 

Mugler SS17 : Sharknado

by Olivia Moreau

David Koma loves sharks. Mugler's spring collection paid homage to that obsession by reintroducing Jaws within the creative process and producing a collection that had a "high couture in a wetsuit" feel to it. When Koma wasn't dressing the models as a sleek, deadly alpha predator he was dressing them as Aquaman's female companion. The trend of infusing sporty with couture has become a prevalent theme this year and this Mugler collection emphasized that trend while pushing the envelope.   

 

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Olivia Moreau is a Sorbonne educated parisian journalist and blogger. She routinely writes on the history of aesthetics and its impact on fashion

Prada SS17 : Futurism Meets Virginia Woolf

by Lucia Barone

Prada's SS17 collected was unveiled in Milan with the usual fanfare today. While you can always count on the fashion house known for it's impeccable italian style to come out swinging, you can never really predict what Prada present. Sometimes that may mean something going horribly wrong but this season, Prada has brought out a collection full of vigor, innovation, strong lines and absolutely delicious futurism. On top of that the models exhibited a hairstyle that can only be labeled as a 20s bob with a hint of Virginia Woolf. In terms the clothes, the futurism is self evident, the strong bespoke lines and patterns are self explanatory and above all, it speaks to many audiences with a sense of universality. What Prada has produced is a collection worth buying, worth wearing and above all worth writing about. 

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Lucia Barone is a Milan based graphic designer and conceptual artist. She routinely writes for Italian newspapers and fashion magazines. 

Miu Miu SS17 : Gateway Drug

by Olivia Moreau

Miu Miu has always been the gateway drug to Prada. It is a wonderful introduction to the world of Prada. As usual Miu Miu produced a collection full of vigor and lightness. It was Party central and model central in Paris for their SS17 collection. The clothes came in hard, came in fast. The collection exuded the youthful functionality that is infused with a certain sense of luxury. From the smallest of hotpants to the multi colored drapes the Miu Miu collection embodied youthful indiscretion as a badge of honor. 

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Olivia Moreau is a Sorbonne educated parisian journalist and blogger. She routinely writes on the history of aesthetics and its impact on fashion

Balenciaga SS17: Kinks and Commerce

by Katherine Thomas

Balenciaga is one of those brand that is evokes obsession to the point of fetish. And rightly so. Balenciaga has been churning out ridiculously creative ideas, art in the form of clothes. Demma Gvasila's first foray with the fabled brand held onto that belief while introducing avant-garde surrealist interpretation with functionality. From kinky printed spandex to  retro flats it was all about the celebration of fashion as a form of artistic expression. But unlike a novice who views fashion as a vehicle of art, this specific Balenciaga collection went all pro and provided an equipoise, a balance to art and commerce. 

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Katherine Thomas is a scottish writer based in Paris.  

Salvatore Ferragamo SS17: Fighting the Good Fight

by Bianca Hill

Salvatore Ferragamo had a rocky few months as a company. Massimilano Giornetti left the company after years overseeing the creative process. So it would have been understandable if the SS17 collection lacked a certain creative imperative amidst the loss. But no such thing was felt mostly because of Fluvio Rigoni's influence. The fusion of femininity into a sporty, functional look evolved into what is so great about past Ferragamo collections....they are Posh! 

The shoes which paid homage to the fantastic fabled history of the House also gave a glimpse of where things are moving within Ferragamo. It is evolving and nothing static is going to remain in its path. 

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Bianca Hill is a Milan based model and a culture writer.