Fendi's SS18 collection bore all the watermarks of a brand who is comfortable being utterly exclusive and decadent. If Gucci was an exploration of aesthetic richness then Fendi is the exploration of commercial richness. Lines, sheer, see through all contributed to the clarity of Fendi's vision which provided another solid dissection of the brands visual tapestry and excellence.
MFW SS18 : Fendi and the Songs of Decadence
It's 5 o'clock Somewhere with Haney
by Olivia Moreau
Mary Alice Haney has always been good at figuring out what she does well and stick to that. This SS18 collection is no different in that sense. Haney produces a set of clothes perfect for the evening and utterly imperfect for anything before that (unless you are on vacation in Mykonos and haven't been back to the hotel since last night). Such clarity of purpose and being able to stick to a singular narrative that fits a specific time frame in a woman's life is what makes this collection not only worth of praise but also worthy of investment. Beautiful prints, shimmering blouses, and dresses to die for are the staple of this collection and we are happy to buy into Haney specially after 5pm.
Karen Walker on the Beauty of Escapism
by Olivia Moreau
Karen Walker's SS18 collection is full of deft touches and casual cool. If her previous work has been driven more by the singular narrative of her inspirations (like Marie Antoinette), then this collection is a diversification of aesthetics that is bound to translate well commercially while throwing down the marker for future collections. Karen's strongest point has always been her ability to find whimsy in functionality, and this collection is no different in that sense but the escapism truly lies on the details and the silhouettes. Beautiful collection all together nicely topped off with wonderful prints.
Comme des Garçons and the Sound of Settling
by Linda Bezos
Rei Kawakubo’s status as an independent entrepreneur who has radically transformed the runway is not dispute. She is in charge of a significant self-built fashion retail empire, which is also a haven for small avant-garde designers and that is why we love her. She is not bound by trendsetting. Neither is she worried about fashion per se. She unleashes her work through the means of runways but they are mostly pieces of work as opposed to outright clothes to wear every day. Her SS18 collection is not a departure from her previous work. The giant sculptural elements were there, so were the dissection of print and silhouettes. Comme des Garçons is slowly settling into retrospective territory and that is the natural trajectory of all great artists.
LFW SS18 : EDDA and the Levity of Longing
by Omi
Fashion Scout has a strong history of providing platforms for up and coming designers that want a foothold in London. So new and exciting is nothing new if you are at a fashion scout show. But now and then new and exciting is backed up by substantive and visionary and that is what EDDA is. New, exciting, substantive and a visionary all right now, all in the making.
EDDA is the brainchild of Norwegian designer Edda Gimnes who by any measure is a prototype of a well to do, design award-winning fashion creative. But that is where any cookie-cutter comparison ends, as unlike a lot of well-to-do-fashion-creatives her work stands out not only as a substantive exploration into the dissection of color but also a general philosophy of levity that is often missing from relatively new designers understanding of functional aesthetics.
EDDA's presentation during London Fashion Week came with the added blessing of Lanvin's former creative director Alber Elbaz who mentored Edda after presenting her with the German Designer for Tomorrow award last year. So EDDA as a brand had a guiding hand most new designers would love to have as they start off on their journey of world exploration and in Edda's case outright world domination.
EDDA's SS18 presentation had many elements to swoon over. And there seems to be a natural progression toward what really works for her look from hand-drawn sketches to patterns soaked in color. When she presented her SS17 during Oslo Runway last year her potential was undeniable but there were some polish, some collective narrative missing from the mix. No such assessment can be made about this collection as it takes all the right ideas and aesthetics into one singular narrative and produces a mature, polished yet youthful and casually edgy look. Edda's clothes seem to know that fashion which takes itself too seriously is bound to lose out and that sort of clarity is expected from a Tom Ford but for such a young designer that sort of clarity is both astounding and refreshing.
EDDA's collection as a whole has some deeply satisfying hues that worked quite well with the patterns and her time with Manuel Vadillo puts her in great company. Patterns complemented by 50s silhouettes is exceptionally well done and worthy of both creative praise and commercial investment. The pantsuit with its delicately soaked colors of the lightest blue is probably the most conventional piece of work in her collection and even that has a deconstructive element attached to it. Taking every variable into account, EDDA's collection is on par with all the heavy hitters we have seen in the last two weeks from New York to London, from Tom Ford to Gareth Pugh.
Visually intoxicating, intellectually present and commercially viable are rarely in the same room together yet during this presentation of EDDA, they were front row. It is a formative collection from a designer who knows her boundaries and pushes them; who knows the levity of fashion and embraces it and provides a narrative like it is an uplifting Norwegian novel. And like an uplifting Norwegian novel, EDDA's presentation is rare, much appreciated and a shot of genius.
PFW SS18 : Maticevski's Australian Dynasty
by Lisa Lerner
Toni Maticevski hails from Australia and Australian women love him. Whether or not others outside the continent feels the same way is still up for debate. But his SS18 collection provided ample evidence of his strong following in Australia and why that is the case. From classic silhouettes to avant-garde deconstruction Toni's work evolved from what used to be at time overcomplication into a set of grand visuals.
NYFW SS18 : The IT Girls of Zoë Jordan
by Samantha Mittten
Zoë Jordan is the best-kept secret of the IT girls of Hollywood. The list of celebs who sport ZJ's clothing is long and distinguished. But that is not a product of just pushing marketable products through placement but an indication of ZJ's trend appeal. ZJ has the allure of exclusive yet the silhouette of inclusive. This wonderful equipoise translates into clothing that appeals visually and remains functional. This SS18 collection is no different, the color arrangements are wonderfully well thought out, the stripes are delicious and California surfer girl meets east coast banker vibe is impossible to ignore.
PFW SS18 : Jacquemus and the Hallowed Names of Nostalgia
by Linda Bezos
Simon Porte's Jacquemus is the darling of Paris. The self-taught designer has a ton of admirers from every facet of Parisian society and looking at his SS18 collection you would know why, instantly.
Simon's work is seemingly simple...the holy grail of fashion. From basic silhouettes to the plunging necklines, thigh-split skirts, exposed back are all part of a collective nostalgia Simon translates into wearable art. The brand itself is an homage to his late mother of the same name and in many ways that nostalgia, attachment translates into delicate, moving ethereal elements on each of his looks. Paris loves Jacquermus and unlike many other loves, this one is fully deserved.
NYFW SS18 : The Casual Romance of the Row
by Olivia Moreau
The Row has always had the aesthetics of lightness and elegance attached to it. For this collection, while other designers were going for templates to fit the upheaval of our time The Row's Asley and Mary-Kate Olson stuck to what they know best. With the feel of comfortable luxury, the silhouettes constructed in this collection bore the signature basic solids with a bit of whimsy. By any measure, this collection has a starkly familiar light look but it is also steeped in the movement of romanticism. From ultra-feminine pantsuits to belted duster in a crinkled, laminated gray material were all part of a narrative of escapism. And we need that at this point.
PFW SS18 : If Looks Could Kill with Alexandre Vauthier
by Olivia Moreau
Alexandre Vauthier's SS18 collection is oozing with sex. It is a collection with minimalist lines, short and tight silhouettes complemented by razor-sharp aesthetics. If looks could kill Alexandre would be Jason Bourne. His SS18 collection is unapologetically feminine and sexy. It is a collection of 'come hither' skirts and bodysuits complemented by boots that are made to walk all over you. It is a collection built for the woman who knows what she wants.
Photographs Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier
PFW SS18 : Mira Mikati's California Dreaming
Mira Mikati dabbles in the world of playfulness with the innocence of a child. Her SS18 collection does not veer away from what has made her successful. The colors, the embroidery, the Adidas like striped pants, the jean onesies are all soaked in the levity of creating a collection for the joy of it. It is an homage to the 60s Venice beach with skater girls bathing in California sun. And while it may be a bit too youthful for a lot of the parisian crowd, this colleciton would find a home in America.
MFW SS18 : Kicking up a City with Bally
by Cara Livingstone
Teddy bear shearlings and retro cashmere-blend tracksuits are what makes Bally's SS18 collection one of the most elegant expositions into the modern city life with a twist of whimsy. Pablo Coppola may have left Bally but his team is still churning out clothes that appeal to the city warrior. The muted colors and excellent prints along with fashion-forward sneakers keep Bally moving in the right direction.
PFW SS18 : Dior's March toward Inclusivity
by Olivia Moreau
Maria Grazia Chiuri puts her designs where her mind is. Under her watch, Dior has slowly but surely become the most feminist of all voices within the bigger brands. This SS18 collection is no different in that sense as the philosophical foundation of the collection remains firmly rooted in MGC's ability to cohabit social commentary and high fashion into a narrative. And that comes with a sense of functionality that is usually missing from the behemoths of ultra-feminine fashion houses like Dior. MGC's influence has also permeated Dior's shoe line as they look modern and entirely accessible to the new generation who does not really wear stilettos like the previous generations. Dior's SS18 collection is another step towards more egalitarian constructs that are slowly taking over fashion houses that are finally being confronted with the reality on the ground.
MFW SS18 : A Gucci Guide to Hitchhikers of the Galaxy
by Cara Livingstone
Alessandro Michele has revived Gucci. His SS18 collection is brimming with the candor of a man who feels completely in sync with the fashion universe. Being the commercial juggernaut Gucci has become under Alessandro's tutelage to the visually overwhelming brand Gucci continues to remain, is a matter of great joy and wonder. His show was an exploration of the past through the refined expertise of the present. It was a show where clothes were only part of the experience, the experience was the real fashion.
LFW SS18 : Ashley Williams on Escapism and Childhood
by Sylvia Anderson
Ashley Williams has a flair for the inclusive. Trimmed with New Wave tailoring and a penchant for athleisure she creates clothing for the younger audiences who are transitioning between adult and young adult worlds. Her SS18 collection hit those exact default lines by being colorful and a little subversive. All this suits the carefully constructed narrative that has been the part and parcel of Ashley's rise and is likely to bring in more people into her already large tent.
NYFW SS18 : Kimora Lee Simmons and the Moroccan Spring
by Lotus Ladegaard
The former Creative Director of Baby Phat, Kimora Lee Simmons successfully launched her eponymous ready-to-wear fashion brand in 2015 with sleek yet comfortable silhouettes and plenty of luxe details. Her clothes balance between American sportswear and resort and offers everything from sleek dresses to classic jackets. She has built a loyal following, she, in turn, knows them very well and thus has been able to excite them season on season.
Kimora Lee Simmons’ Spring 2018 collection was showcased a little bit of everything from evening wear to athleisure. The colour palette was fairly simple with colour splashes of peach, pink, blue in addition to classic white, beige and black along with a few subtle multicolour prints. With subtle Moroccan references, Kimora Lee Simmons offers a variety of silhouettes, although the collection as a whole is somewhat type specific and felt a little safe. Nevertheless, it will undoubtedly have a strong commercial appeal.
The white top with an almost bare back and panels is modern and fresh. The long blue dress with the same effect on the back is charming and will work well with many occasions. The peach pantsuit with bare cut-out shoulders and elbow length sleeves is another piece that stood out. The white top with cut-outs, buttons and a tail paired with fitted pants will be a hit with many of her fans and probably excite many other fashionistas.
Kimora Lee Simmons delivered a Spring 2018 collection that undoubtedly will excite a lot people who have been following her rise with interest while bringing in a few new fans with some of her standout pieces. Regardless, whether it is on the beach or at a cocktail party or a destination wedding, we are bound to see Kimora Lee Simmons pieces in the mix.
NYFW SS18 : The Day-Walkers of Area
by Cara Livingstone
Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk have always had the audacity to challenge the prevailing order with their brand Area. Their focus until now has been the club scenes of all global cities from New York to Shanghai, their clothing line is the statement line for many club goers. This SS18 collection is a toned down day-version of what they have been doing for the nights. The elements of saturated colors and shiny exterior with tight lines are still there with an added scene of maturity. This collection is not going to mind blowing for most who have followed Area into dark nightclubs in Tel-Aviv to Mykonos, but it is probably going to be one of the most commercially fuilfilling.
NYFW SS18 : Diane von Furstenberg and Siren Song of the 70s
by Cara Livingstone
After Jonathan Saunders took over the helms at Diane von Furstenberg he quickly moved to create a signature look that remains consistent with the iconic brand's image while modernizing the looks. This collection moves in the right direction as it incorporates the heyday of 70's aesthetics and adds a layer of Saunders's own touch of magic. The confident incorporation of color and bold prints made this collection visually stunning and easy on the wallet and those of us have grown up with DvF as a template of the perfect fashionista were not left disappointed. This collection would do very well financially and creatively this is a strong account of DvF's ambition as an iconic fashion house.
NYFW SS18 : Tomas Maier and the Colors of Optimism
by Cara Livingstone
Tomas Maier is the eternal optimist. Amidst the gloom of heartless politics, relentless hurricanes, and forest fires, he provides a respite from a world burning by introducing us to his new collection, brimming with colors of optimism, shapes of clarity and the blueprint of keeping your head right about the water. His NYFW SS18 presentation is a collage of color and distractions. And no one distracts so well as Tomas does with his intricate patterns and outright audacious use of basic forms.
