Rebeca, Rebeca x Pontus +The Product = Avant Garde-ing in Oslo

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by Olivia Moreau | Lotus Ladegaard

Rebeca, Rebeca is an unusual clothing brand. It is the brainchild of Rebeca Høien, who is more of an artist than a cold cut marketing rep. Her work usually borders on the cusp of experimental fashion and sustainability. Her last collection shown in the rather wonderful DogA (the famous design school in Oslo) bore the hallmark of a designer who is completely comfortable with who she is yet is unrelenting in pushing the boundaries. To find Rebeca's philosophy similar to Comme des Garçons would not be a stretch, as both Rebeca and Rei Kawakubo revisualizes as what is acceptable as a form of aesthetic expression within the confines of fashion and art. Rebeca's collaboration project with Pontus focused strictly on wires and electrical outlets. From glued in keys of keyboards to tops made out of electrical outlet, graced this rather unique fashion-art exhibit. While this is not for the fainthearted, nor is it directed towards Instagram influencers, the core conceptual foundational of the show reminded us why it is not only necessary to look at fashion beyond the perspective of just commerce and within the periphery of artistic expression. With the help of Pontus ( a stylist inspired brand) and enviable the Product, the Norwegian ultra- organic, slow fashion brand, Rebeca's show provided a glimpse of what you would expect in a space where art runs supreme. 

                                                Photographs Courtesy of Omi

Rebeca Rebeca as a brand debuted on Vancouver Fashion week in 2014, just two years after its beginning. The young brand has made quite the name for itself outside Norway with several strong reviews from some of the most prestigious fashion publications around. With a focus on natural textiles and a slow fashion mindset, the brand creates elegant and refined garments with minimalistic expression combined with Norwegian culture and drawing on inspiration from legends, myths and music.

For the current collection; Rebeca Rebeca x Pontus, not much is given away on their website expect a labyrinth of clues to follow. A very intriguing appetizer to the actual collection. 

Models came down the runway with frizzy wild hair, natural and fresh and bare feet. A top created from plugs and cables paired with a wide flowy white skirt opened the show. Beneath the bustier of plugs were an intricate woven net which felt a little out of place and exactly the reaction that is expected of a narrative constructed with A.I. in mind. A black bustier with cables shaped into a pair of trousers above the shiny brown pair came next and worked into the same formula. The deep seeded questions about Artificial Intelligence and its role in our future was firmly on display at Rebeca's work.  

A deconstructed trench coat was one of the most intriguing looks of the show. The lower part as well as the upper part of the jacket was kept almost as is, while the middle part had been completely cut out and thus left the model’s tattoo bare. Rough edges and the styling of the lapels really made the body art stand out. And Pontus's influence on the work was evident and meshed into the flow of things to come. 

A very elegant and classic brown bolero jacket styled with a tight turtleneck and brown tight trousers were stylish seemed like throwaway fill and failed to fit in coherently with the rest of the looks. The second similar look with black tight trousers and black tight turtleneck and the signature cables wrapped around worked better with the collection. Rebeca Rebeca x Pontus + The Product also offered a men’s wear look with a black hoodie and black shirt styled with black boxers. The separates will undoubtedly do well with the streetwear enthusiasts, however, the more conclusive set would have benefitted the show immensely. 

The final showstopper was a black dress with a black bustier of plugs with cables hanging down from it above the slim black skirt. It was intriguing, had plenty of editorial appeal. It tied up the idea of A.I. and our role within that evolving ecosystem beautifully. 
 

                                 Runway Photographs Courtesy of Antara Roy Chowdhury

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Copenhagen Fashion Week Highlights Day 3

Reporting by Lotus Ladegaard

The third and last day of Copenhagen Fashion Week was as exciting as the previous two. The day kicked off with Anne Vest’s AW21 collection titled “A pensive mood”. Anne Vest launched her brand and debut with a 15-piece collection showcasing her take on the classic coat, in Paris back in 2010. For its AW21 presentation, a fashion film was created featuring a mysterious white room without boundaries occupied by Anne de Rijk, who walks, sits and pounders pensively. The actual collection was beautiful and tailored to perfection with many stand out pieces such as the white jacket with black skin pockets, the long black vest, along with the long ivory coat with long slits at the side.

Next up was Soulland, who has impressed season this season with its hip style and conscious approach. Behind Soulland are creative Director Silas Adler and CEO Jacob Kampp Berliner who founded the company in 2002. Through a global network, the brand has strived to promote open-mindedness, freedom in creativity, and responsible production. The duo had opted for a more traditional runway presentation although set in an unconventional setting. The color palette was simple and kept almost entirely in black and white tones only with a few classic deep dark blue looks and splashes of bold prints in bright red and pink tones. The collection was not among the best or most exciting, we have seen from the duo, however, it will surely do well commercially.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan began his journey in fashion houses such as Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen, when he launched his eponymous brand in 2014. Tailoring, construction, impeccable quality in the form of fine textiles, and craftsmanship are at the very core of his brand DNA. He, too, had opted for a more traditional runway for his digital presentation, but done with all models at the same time walking in a slow pace. The collection was playful and exquisite kept in subtle natural tones with discreet prints and fabrics that can be combined in many ways. Several pieces stood out like the long grey high-neck asymmetrical poncho styled with a signature oversized sleeve and pants and the white coat with versatile sleeves styled with a high-neck sweater and straight pants along with the Asian styled blouse and with wide ¾ leg pants in grey print.

The last show of the day and Copenhagen Fashion Week was a fan favorite, Henrik Vibskov and his AW21 collection entitled “A crisp layer of madness.” The presentation also marked his 20th anniversary in the business and at the very top of Danish fashion. Although cakes and cake baking has reached a new high under the lock-down, Henrik Vibskov’s inspiration came about through a costume and set design project he was working on at a table surrounded by musicians and the idea of a show started to form. He was inspired not just by cakes, but also the traditions surrounding eating cake, decorating cakes, little things on cake tables that have been forgotten.

For his AW21 collection presentation for Copenhagen Fashion Week, Henrik Vibskov had opted for a beautiful fashion film shot in the amazing Vilhelm Lauritzen terminal at Copenhagen Airport designed by Vilhelm Lauritzen in 1939. The terminal, traditionally only used by the Royal House and other prominent people features an extravagant ceiling that fitted beautifully to the title of his collection “A crisp layer of madness”. As always, Henrik Vibskov knows how to excite fashionistas and fashion editors alike with his sense of color, cut, and textile. The color palette was bold and fresh while the silhouettes were varied and referred to cake shapes, hanging tablecloths, and Victorian dresses. The collection felt fresh, fashion-forward, and had so many stand-out pieces. It was just a pure joy to watch. His AW21 collection cemented his 20 years in fashion and at the top of Danish fashion.