Maison Francesco Scognamiglio's Diva Allure

by Martha Newhouse

Scognamiglio’s penchant for a sexy, diva-esque allure telegraphed through feminine effervescence of frills and ruffles were on outstanding display for this haute couture collection. To be able to maintain freshness with a sense of whimsy while remaining true to the original form has been Scognamiglio’s more enduring achievement.

The Irrefutable Consistency of Haney

by Samantha Mitten

Mary Alice Haney does not suffer from variability in vision. From day one her label has been a celebration of the female form and the visual joy it brings. Holding on to that vision Haney's AW18 collection brings heavy hitters with ease and poise. From rhinestone studded separates to the high-slit gowns, the delectable minidresses provide wardrobe for a woman who is comfortable with who she is. 

The Joy of Olivier Rousteing w/ Balmain

by Lotus Ladegaard

Balmain has been around since 1946 and after years of static repetition new life has been infused into the traditional fashion house with the introduction of Olivier Rousteing as Creative Director. He has continuously managed to make an impact with both editors and fashionistas alike. He creates collections with a fresh take on French Couture yet remaining very Balmain.

Considering Olivier Rousteing’s recent posts on Instagram, the Prefall 2019 collection is hardly a major surprise, but the crafty designer knows how to work the social media to his advantage and the early spoilers set the Prefall collection perfectly. From Asian architecture to bold avant-garde couture and hints of Fantasia, the new collection is uniquely Olivier's own.

The Balmain Prefall 2019 collection is full of bold prints and strong silhouettes. It has a fresh and delightful feel about is and will undoubtedly excite the world of fashion. From spiked shoulders to exaggerated and avant-garde silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing knows how to deliver to the loyal Balmain followers as well as draw new in.

Several pieces stood out and left an impression like the black jackets with white lapels and oversized cuffs styled with loose yet sexy stonewashed jeans. The printed dress with an almost bare torso was another stand-out. The collection also offered several off-the-shoulder pieces like the embroidered dress with exaggerated skirt and bodice and the black and white dress with oversized sleeves which also stood out and made an impact.

As always, Olivier Rousteing has an eye for the finishing and delivered an impeccably tailored collection that is even more impressive when you take a second look at all the details and styling.

Balmain’s Prefall 2019 collection is another home-run from the exciting designer.

Viktor & Rolf's Frosted Fairytales

by Linda Bezos

Viktor & Rolf's Fall ’18, the duo’s third bridal collection was soaked and frosted into strong whites and nothing more. Ivory ball gowns with giant cascading bows along the skirt complemented by empire-waist minidresses and jumpsuits made the collection a modern take on a fairytale wedding. From the extravagance to minimalism, this collection bore what is foundationally V&R...a sense of intrigue, sexiness and uber feminity. 

Monique Lhuillier and the Near Eastern Charm

by Lotus Ladegaard

The Filipino-American designer Monique Lhuillier entered the world of fashion with her very own wedding, for which she created dresses for her family and bridal party. She quickly became known for her eye for sophisticated luxury, and gained a large celebrity following. Over the years, she has expanded her eponymous brand, which today include ready-to-wear, formal wear, bridesmaids and lifestyle items such as linens, tableware, fine paper and home fragrances.

For Fall 2019, Monique Lhuillier presented a collection packed with her signature silhouettes embellished with metallic, three-dimensional and jewel elements as well as florals in an equally sophisticated colour palette of blush, champagne and rose gold. The collection also featured capes, jackets and streamers which give it an overall vintage feel. Every dress and gown tell a story of its own, and thus every piece stands out.

The A-line dress in printed silk organza with matching floral veil as well as the drop-waist with rose-gold and wrapped chiffon embellishments were exquisite with beautiful finishing. The ballgowns were romantic and feminine, for the more adventurous bride, Monique Lhuillier also included one with adorable colourful floral embellishments. For the darker colder fall, the designer also added several options that can be worn before, during and after the actual ceremony such as a fur cape and a tulle jacket along with streamers.

Monique Lhuillier, yet again, proved she knows what brides want and are looking for. Regardless of other trends, she stays true to her designs and manages to incorporate these into her collection. The Bridal Fall 2019 collection is another home-run.

Playing Duro Olowu's Zora Neale Hurston on Repeat

by Lotus Ladegaard

Nigerian-born and London-based designer Duro Olowu has consistently pushed the envelope with his innovative combination of patterns and textiles, drawing on inspiration from his international background. His pieces often feature inspiration from all over the world along with his Nigerian roots. Duro Olowu knows textiles and how to create intriguing silhouettes and designs with an impact.

Over the years, he has gained a cult following which was partially a product generated by his high-waisted patchwork skirt that was hailed as the dress of the year by both British and American Vogue. And in 2005, he was named the New Designer of the Year at London Fashion Week, even without having a catwalk show that season.

For Spring 19, Duro Olowu presented a colorful and bold collection with plenty of his African influences and his signature prints, floral and polka dots that is bound to excite fashion editors around the globe as well as win over new fans and followers.

The blue floral dress in layered chiffon was exquisite and felt easy, yet glamorous. The green 1930’ies inspired dress was another example of dresses that felt easy yet had plenty of classic and elegant flair. Pieces with mixed prints are always a hit with Duro Olowu’s followers and many of them are beautiful and intriguing. They will certainly have an impact on any occasion.

More subtle pieces like silver blouses, a black dress with mixed textiles and suiting was also featured in the collection. The collection also followed suit on the very trendy stripes, which Duro Olowu has managed to mix with other prints and other stripes in a very interesting way. The red, black and white striped suit with a long coat and Asian collar was beautifully tailored and could easily be worn separately with other pieces.

Duro Olowu keeps on delivering and we keep on loving it. 

 

This Bohemian Wedding with Temperley London

by Lotus Ladegaard

Temperley London was established in 2000 by designer Alice Temperley and her partner Lars von Benningsen and quickly became known for its focus on luxurious fabrics and exquisite hand finishing. Until 2011, Temperley London showed at both New York Fashion Week as well as London Fashion Week, however, in recent years Temperley London collections have been presented via multimedia installations as opposed to the traditional catwalk shows.

Temperley London Bridal has always had a bohemian- and vintage-inspired aesthetics, it is playful and feminine with plenty of embellishments and frills. For Fall 2018, ten exquisite gowns inspired by the jazz-age were presented. It will undoubtedly speak to her loyal followers as well as playful, fun-loving brides around the globe.

The color palette was interesting and offered traditional white and ivory, but also blush and very delicate pink. As always, Alice Temperley has an eye for embellishments and know exactly how much to use and when to stop. The collection offered everything from an open back tulle gown with sequins to off-the-shoulder gown embellished with pink crystals and also included a hearts and flowers embellished dress as well as gowns for the party-loving bride.

Temperley London’s Bridal Fall 2019 collection is bound to excite her followers, fashionistas and fashion editors alike. It is filled with gowns that will make any bride stand out, and gowns that will speak to many brides.

Tailoring 101 with Victoria Beckham

by Lotus Ladegaard

Victoria Beckham has successfully transitioned from a novelty pop star in the world of fashion into a respected designer, who’s designs has a widespread appeal and is ever evolving. Using herself as an inspiration, she has moved from very fitted pieces to sporting a more relaxed style with loose bodices and oversized pieces. She launched her brand in ten years ago and it has since become a fixture at the prestigious New York Fashion Week. Victoria Beckham favours the wearable and relatable rather than showpieces, which her collections reflect.

For her Resort 2019, Victoria Beckham has returned to the very tailored and feminine pieces. The colour palette ranged from classic black, white and red to coloured prints and knits along with camouflage and beige tones. The oversized and loose pieces have been replaced with feminine, fitted and fierce dresses, suits and outerwear that reflect the designer’s own evolving in taste. It is easy to see Victoria Beckham and her story in this collection that embraces colour, prints and a little bit of rock’n’roll. 

The little pink dress mimicking a two-piece with white and pink shirt and a pink fitted skirt stood out with tons of editorial appeal along with being edgy and fierce. Several of the black looks all stood out such as the little fitted black tuxedo dress and the long A-line dress with brown and it would be easy to imagine the designer in any of these walking the red carpet. The printed pieces felt contemporary, youthful and fun and will undoubtedly win over a younger crowd.

Victoria Beckham presented another interesting and commercially viable Resort Collection and certainly made for a very tasty appetizer ahead of her show in September in London.
 

Underrated Charm of Smarteez

by Linda Bezos

Smarteez is soaked in smart design. A culmination of superfine cotton, silk, nylon, poplin create the main foundational fabrics for Smarteez, which is one of the most exciting yet underrated fashion houses in Italy right now. Marta Forgheiri, the main designer for Smarteez has the credentials (CSM trained) and the talent to consistently produce clothes that stand out. The name itself stems from the ridiculously well dressed Smarteez crew in Post-Apartheid South Africa and does it justice by creating aesthetically pleasing constructs that not only appeal to the visual markers of beauty and elegance but also appeals to the feeling of clothing which is so very important. Smarteez's autumn collection is full of that equipoise between fine fabrics and standout fashion. It is more global than Italian in its aesthetic expression and more Italian than global in its finishing. 

54.2K

The Rebellious Couture of Viktor & Rolf

by Lotus Ladegaard

The designer duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have always sought to challenge fashion preconceptions and link fashion and art. In their early beginnings, the world of fashion did not exactly welcome the Dutch duo, however, the world of art responded well and paved way for them. Known for their avant-garde and theatrical silhouettes and references, Viktor & Rolf always puts on a show on the catwalk. Although the bold and extravagant style is not to everyone’s taste, their pieces always manages to make a statement and leave and impression.

For Couture AW 2018, Viktor & Rolf has created an intriguing collection with highlights from the past 25 years all reworked, refreshed and reimagined in all white and Swarovski crystals. The collection was every bit avant-garde, dramatic and theatrical as anyone would expect from the Dutch design duo. It made for quite a spectacular show with so many stand-out pieces that editors will have a hard time choosing one. 

Pieces like the ballgown with corset bodice and tulle skirt with wholes in it and the suit wrapped in Swarovski crystal band stood out as bold and exciting while other pieces like the bed with pillows as collar and duvet off-the-shoulder dress and the NO coat finished with crystals stood out as humoristic and felt fun. A wrap-around dress with crystal splatters and completely open neckline and the ballgown wrapped at one shoulder with the words I love you on it, were feminine and romantic in that Viktor & Rolf way. A few pieces might have been somewhat over the top, however, is that not to be expected from avant-garde haute couture? Viktor & Rolf knows how to breath take an audience and deliver a good show.

The Couture AW 2018 collection is a fantastic and bold even for the avant-garde. It might not be to everyone’s taste, but Viktor & Rolf will always seek to challenge our perspectives and conceptions, whether we like or not. 

The Bloodletting before the Rebooting of Burberry

by Linda Bezos

This is not Riccardo Tisci's collection but a curated collection of what has been Burberry's strength..their branding. It is a celebration of what makes Burberry, Burberry. The traditionalism through the means of legacy clothing is fully present in this resort collection. And there is enough reason to believe under Tisci's leadership Burberry might become more avant-garde, more youthful than it ever was. And in that regard, this is more of a swansong or a bookend, to a new chapter that is beginning. 

The Homecoming of Venus with Francesco Scognamiglio

by Lydia Schaff 

Scognamiglio’s 20-years-long exploration of couture through the prism of whimsy and sex appeal were on full display at his Capri show. His ability to construct the allure of a diva tightly knitted into a ball of sexual energy and elegance enhanced even the most functional of couture pieces. If that wasn't enough his silhouettes were more form fitting than any during the Haute Couture. It is no surprise to see Maison Francesco Scognamiglio thriving for 20 years as a formative experience creator for the exclusive haute couture club.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood = VW 2.0

by Naomi Smith

Andreas Kronthaler took over the reigns of Vivienne Westwood few cycles ago. And his bridal collection is not much of a bridal collection but more of a statement of intent. And the intent is to disrupt, the intent is to remain at the helm of avant-garde. The Corset gowns have morphed into a bridal dress of sorts, the suspenders are added into the realm of avant-garde bridal fashion too. A collection full of separates and outright rejection of the bridal philosophy. Ultimately that has always been the foundation of VW's philosophy and Andreas Kronthaler is no mug when it comes to courting the right kind of disruption. 

More than an Attitude with Just Cavalli

by Lotus Ladegaard

When Roberto Cavalli invented and patented a printing procedure on leather and created patchwork of different materials, back in the early 70’s, his fashion career immediately took off with commissions from the likes of Hermès and Pierre Cardin. In 2000, he created a new line; Just Cavalli dedicated to a new generation of free spirits. With a focus fusing innovative materials and graphics with the Cavalli tradition, he created a line that is fashion-forward, edgy and youthful. 

The Just Cavalli Pre Fall 2019 is the first by creative director Paul Surridge, and it has been much anticipated. Paul Surridge’s vision for Just Cavalli, by the looks of the Pre Fall 2019 collection is a wider range with offerings for most body types, flowy as well as fitted pieces. He has also given the brand’s aesthetic a more contemporary wider appealing feel, while utilising the cornerstones of the Just Cavalli; animalier prints, sexy edge and the rock’n’roll attitude cleverly subtle. Gone is the over-embellishment and instead you find bright popping colours and homage to the brand’s heritage. 

For Pre Fall 2019, Paul Surridge had chosen a vibrant colour palette ranging from romantic pinks to bright popping yellow, animalier prints and denim. It offered several stand out pieces and offered different styles with flowy dresses and trench coats for the bohemian fashionistas, the animalier prints had been reworked to mimic abstract graphics that are less ‘in your face’ and thus will appeal to a wider audience. Edgy and funky denim looks, as well as an exquisite yellow suit, shows that Paul Surridge has not forgotten about the Just Cavalli attitude.  
 

Dolce & Gabbana's This American Life

by Olivia Moreau

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been a constant fixture for the Metropolitan Opera in New York and since both of them share a deep love and nostalgia for the place, it was no surprise to find a D&G show to embrace the atrium of MOH. 

The couture show which had the underlying theme of celebrating America (a hard task in this climate of anti-intellectualism, anti-immigration and anti-facts) touched on some of the political upheavals but not to the point which would upset more illiberal buyers. The clothes were classic Dolce & Gabbana with fine craftsmanship and kitsch playing the central role. Despite the exhaustive number of looks what stood out were the outright homage to Americana. It was an experience as opposed to just a fashion show and that is what D&G offers each cycle with ease.  

                                             Photographs Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

Ralph Lauren's Subtle Reinvention

By Lotus Ladegaard

Ralph Lauren started his eponymous brand more than 50 years ago with a men’s tie line. Inspired by sports, he named his very first collection ‘Polo’ and since became known for his polo shirts. However, many years have passed since then and, today, Ralph Lauren is much more than a somewhat preppy polo shirt. Over the years, Ralph Lauren has also become known for his take on American sportswear that always offers style with comfort.

Ralph Lauren’s 2018 Prefall collection is rather intriguing. It offered a little bit of everything and takes you on quite the journey. The collection is sleek and elegant, it is minimal yet striking and elegant. The colour palette was kept simple with grey and brown tones ranging from metallic to mat. Several looks stood out such as the champagne coloured sleek dress with low back and the metallic grey dress, they were cleverly understated, elegant and would make an impact at the right occasions. Other stand out pieces were the coats and jackets, in general the suiting was brilliantly executed with several exquisite androgynous suits, jackets and coats, especially the navy shawl tuxedo blazer with casual pants stood out. The pantsuits ranged from classic to contemporary with references to American workwear. A metallic flight suit stood out as did a brown pantsuit with wide legs styled with a cute brown bag. A metallic bomber jacket along with a furry and metallic blush flight suit kept the collection contemporary and youthful.

Looking at the 2018 Prefall collection, one might wonder where the comfort of Ralph Lauren has gone. But do not despair, Ralph Lauren know his strong following and know they value comfort as much as style and elegance and thus the adorable lurex sweaters and pleated skirts come with a soft cashmere lining.

Ralph Lauren has created an intriguing and exciting 2018 Prefall Collection with pieces for any fashionista with a preference for the comfortable.

Galia Lahav and the Celebration of Exquisite

by Lotus Ladegaard

Design is in the genes of Galia Lahav who grew up in a family of seamstresses in Russia. She launched her brand as an embroidery and knitted applique shop in her very own hometown but quickly began to design for brides. In November 2016, Galia Lahav was granted couture status by the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. 

With an eye for beauty, details, and embellishments, Galia Lahav wants to make every bride feel like a superstar on the red carpet. Craftmanship, attention to details and intricacy are within the DNA of the brand, and hours are spent creating one final look. Approx. 1000 embroidery designs are created for just one final look. And the result is exquisite, feminine and fierce, it is easy to see why Galia Lahav is adored by both a strong celebrity following as well as fashion editors alike. 

For Bridal Spring 2019, Galia Lahav presented a charming, feminine and lavish collection that offered everything from feminine grand ballgown to detailed embellished mermaid dresses that would do well on the red carpet as well as down the aisle. 

Galia has an eye for details and the Bridal Spring 2019 collection was no exception. With clever cut-outs, large and luxurious appliques, textile choices and beading, Galia Lahav managed to make every single gown stand out.  The ballgown with a shimmering skirt and floral appliques and a small cut-out and the lace gown with a deep plunging V-neck with beaded straps and bodice were exceptional on so many levels. Her simple ballgown with a bow at the waist is delightful and charming. The lace a line with a deep V-neck embellished with floral appliques are romantic, glamorous and feels like old Hollywood. 

Galia Lahav is a master at her craft. Each passing season that mastery pushes her to a legendary status among the current crop of exceptional designers.
 

55.3K

Decked out in Art Deco with Zuhair Murad

by Lotus Ladegaard

In just a few years, Zuhair Murad has conquered the throne of bridal with his unique eye for textiles, embellishments, and details. He has consistently wowed with his bridal collections and it is easy to see why his fans include fashion editors, influencers, celebrities and fashionistas alike.

For Bridal Spring 2019, the Lebanese designer presented an exquisite and beautiful collection that offers everything, we have come to expect; it feels luxurious and looks amazing, it is editorial and will appeal to a wide variety of women. From the soft and feminine to art deco lines with influences from the Chrysler Building in New York, from ballgown to fit and flare, Zuhair Murad do it all fiercely. His collections and design are anything, but simple; they are intricate, detailed and embellished, something not all designers master.

While his inspiration, undoubtedly, was the Art Deco Movement of the 1930s, he did not forget about his followers who adore his floral embroidery, or those who fancy something a little more traditional like a sleeveless applique tulle gown with a bow belt, which really stood out and will excite fashion editors around the globe. Another stand out was the Art Deco inspired slim line dress with a detachable train which gave hints to Old Hollywood. Other pieces and details such as capes, detachable trains, ostrich feathers embellishments and Art Deco embroidery only added to that feeling.

Zuhair Murad delivered a solid and breath-taking Bridal Spring 2019 collection true to his aesthetics. Zuhair Murad brides around the world will undoubtedly line up for one of his creations.

 

80.2K

Mary Katrantzou's Rothchild Excursion

by Olivia Moreau 

Mary Katrantzou is a visionary. So was the second Baron Rothchild who invested a substantial amount of his wealth into his interest in zoology, which led to the creation of the national history museum in London. Mary Katranzou was invited by the current heir to the Rothchild name to incorporate her psychedelic prints into the rich tapestry of the museum. And in this resort collection, she does exactly that. Soaked in the patterns of feather and exotic flowers, liberal lashings of lamé, glittering sequins, and multicolored stripes are all part of this visually delectable collection that is bound to grace the many lavish parties and weekends of the world's elites and fashion aficionados.  

Après Moi, Le Deluge with Chanel

by Linda Bezos

Chanel can be nauseatingly good at selling clothes. It has to do with its branding and poise, creativity and large market base. So this years collection is no different in that regard. From 70s ruffles laden exploration to the classic tweedy Chanel experience this is a collection is as much of a retrospective as it is a move forward for Karl. The romanticism is evident, the global appeal is always building, and the tiring, towering line of models with excellent clothes is all too familiar. After Karl (we must ask) is the deluge?