In her fourth season, Los Angeles designer Tessa Matthias is bridging the gap between athleisure and trend specific luxury wear. Tessa's Fall collection is full of promise and clarity of designer who is learning and evolving much faster than most designer her age. From machine washable cashmere to scuba-inspired track pants Tessa find a niche' within a niche' market while remaining every so appealing to the greater aesthetic of functional fashion.
Alberta Ferretti and the Siren Song of Romanticism
by Olivia Moreau
Hyper-femininity is what drives Alberta Ferretti. She does not hold back when it comes to finding the poetry and romanticism in her work. Her couture (limited edition collection) has all the makings of a designer clear in her vision and expert in her execution. Her romanticism is not frivolous, it is driven by a certain charming efficiency. From more structured attire to more loose ethereal silhouettes, her work touch to holy grails of fashion... minimalism, and expansiveness.
The Gonzo Opera of Alexandre Vauthier's Backstage
by Lotus Laadegaard | Photographs by Omi
Shortly following his graduation from ESMOD, Alexandre Vauthier joined Thierry Mugler’s design studio. In Thierry Mugler, Alexandre Vauthier found a mentor, supporter and a teacher. Later, he joined Jean-Paul Gaultier as Head Designer of the Couture Collection before he launched his own brand in 2009 during Paris Fashion Week. Two years later, he was accepted as a guest member of Chambre Syndicate de la haute couture becoming an official member in 2014 and thus his fashion house can use the term haute couture. With radical cuts and a natural need for preciseness and rigor, Alexandre Vauthier has created his own style inspired by French culture and Anglo-Saxon influences. His creative universe is not limited to fashion alone but embraces music, ready-to-wear, perfume and interior design. Alexandre Vauthier is already a fashionable force to be reckoned with and an intriguing one at that.
So it was no surprise that his build up to his Haute Couture show was extraordinary and seeping with the collective genius of his ever-expanding narrative.
Vini, Vidi, Vici Versus Versace!
by Olivia Moreau
Versus Versace is the prelude to Donatella's ongoing consolidation of the Versace empire....and what an empire it is. Soaked in Italian whimsy and in your face branding, Versus is the younger sibling to a more nuanced Versace and with every season it becomes leaner, meaner and cooler. But behind the coolness, this is a celebration of Gianni's original designs with his signature on it (literally in some cases). Ultimately Versus is making it easier for Donatella to push her own vision into a fabled brand while maintaining a steady homage to a man who truly embodied what Italian fashion is.
Victoria by Victoria Beckham on Bridging Gaps
Victoria Beckham is not here to reinvent the wheels but she does deconstruct a lot of our everyday attire with ease and poise of an artist. From downtown cool to avant-garde chic' her sister label is directed towards the more experimental crowd with an obvious homage to the confident women who wear her primary label. The foundational aesthetics of the whole collection is based on the notion destructing masculinity and femininity and bridging that gap with less obvious silhouettes. And Victoria does it with ease.
Rebeca de Ravenel's Midwinter's Dream
by Lotus Ladegaard
Rebecca de Ravenel might not be a household name, but her earrings have graced a many ears from London to Tokyo to New York since she launched the Les Bonbons silk chord ball-drop Bijoux in 2015. The multi-faceted designer, however, has many more talents and in September of last year, she launched her first ready-to-wear collection filled with caftans, kimonos, and dresses, all created and designed to compliment her earrings rather than the other way around. Her versatile style is easy-to-wear enough for the beach yet sophisticated enough for an evening out. The designs reflect Rebecca de Ravenel’s feel for today’s women and what they want.
For Fall 2018, Rebecca de Ravenel presented a feminine and sophisticated collection at New York Fashion Week. The colour palette matches and compliments her bijoux and offers reds, blues, neutrals and several prints. From outerwear and dresses to separates, the collection offers it all and then some. From flowy and easy-to-wear pieces to sleek and fitted pieces, Rebecca de Ravenel does it very well. Styled with care, each look compliments her bijoux and thus make for several standout looks.
Versatility is at the heart of the namesake brand and it is carried through in her Fall 2018 collection. The looks are easily dressed up and down with a few other garments or the addition of her very sophisticated and contemporary bijoux.
Rebecca de Ravenel’s Fall 2018 collection is what most women want; stylish, sophisticated yet comfortable and easy.
Nina Ricci and the Dreamscapes of Drama
by Sofia Boyce
Guillaume Henry of Nina Ricci took a page (no pun intended) out of literature and 18th-century theater to find inspiration for Ricci's new collection. The stock characters in these plays with their mute yet elaborate existence are all too present in this rather whimsical collection. If commedia dell’arte is the DNA then surely the oversized flexibility of the clothes are the legs that move this collection. While it is hard to imagine how successful this would be commercially, the whimsy and the levity of this collection are worth gushing over. The dramatic shapes overwhelm the senses in some situation but ultimately comes out as fun and functional with a hint of theater. It is a collection not for the faint hearted, neither it is a collection for the most audacious, but in between that those of us enjoy levity in our clothes and history on our shoes, this is a collection worth getting into.
The Meritocracy of Paris Haute' Couture
by Olivia Moreau
Couture Week in Paris is relatively small. Not because there aren't enough designers but to be truly considered couture you will have to be exceptional at what you do. In many ways being an Haute Couture house is the most rigorous credential in fashion. So it is no surprise many designers try and fail to become a true Haute Couture house and some just become faux-couture to give the impression that it is Haute Couture. Impressions, pretensions aside Paris Haute Couture is the foremost event during the fashion calendar when it comes to showing the actual work of the designers. So this year we decided instead of just covering FROW and runway during Haute Couture week, we are going to delve deep into the designers backstage. But being an avant-garde magazine that stands on the cusp of commercialization and art provides us with more flexibility in covering shows. So here are the three most anticipated shows by us during Paris Haute Couture Week.
Alexandre Vauthier: Alexandre Vauthier's previous collection brought the 80s glam into the foray. His couture collection gave every indication that he is reviving the disco-excellence and big-hair-exuberance of ’80s haute couture.The shoulder-padded base layers, the glittery sway of supermodels, the see-through levity of sheer fabrics were all the rage during the 80s and Vauthier teased out the best of that era in that collection. We are excited to see his new collection and find out where this master of eroticism and femininity draws the line. We will cover Alexandre's backstage and Front Row with the same transparency as his now fabled dresses.
Galia Lahav: Galia Lahav is the queen of bridal dressmaking. And her seamstress heritage, her decades creating magnificent couture have truly established her as one of the most intricate practitioners of Haute' Couture. Her lavish gowns are something we would be looking forward to and from backstage to frow we will dissect the beauty and the flow of her amazing career as a dressmaker of the utmost class.
Zuhair Murad: Zuhair Murad requires no introduction. The Lebanese designer is a stalwart in this business and his work within the realms of Haute' Couture is evocative, romantic and often times outright elaborate. We will shine a light on a career that already has reached dizzying highs. From the signature white to off white, Murad's show is likely to be of great interest to many buyers as his work sits right in the middle of art and commerce.
Lastly, shows like Stephane Rolland and Iris van Herpen are likely to make a splash but in our opinion the most intriguing ones are the ones we discussed and will be covering along with a whole set of shows. To paraphrase the great Pierre Cardin, there are no bad shows in Haute' Couture. So hang on tight, we got you covered.
The Circus of Excellence with Vivienne Westwood
by Lotus Ladegaard
Only a handful of designers and fashion brands are able to continuously excite and surprise like Vivienne Westwood, who has always managed to stand out among her peers in the world of fashion. Equally quirky and fashion-forward, the new Fall Collection is everything we have come to expect from the British designer, and with colorful editorial appeal, it is bound to excite fashionistas and fashion editors alike. Her ability to stay consistent and relevant is unprecedented, and while not to everyone’s taste, no one can deny that Vivienne Westwood is clearly still one of the most iconic fashion designers around.
The norm has never been something to follow according to the designer, who has styled her Fall Collection with models ranging from plus size to seniors, real size models to models of shapes we are familiar with. Subtle as well as more direct references to "Great" Britain, the British way of life, Brexit and the European Union can be found in Vivienne Westwood’s Fall Collection with that certain girl power edge the designer always brings to the table.
The color palette offered any color of the rainbow and then some with bold prints and softer warmer earth tones. From suits to dresses, separates to gowns, everything is offered in this fresh and fashion-forward collection. Standing out was a mini collection of draped pastel pink pieces which were fresh and fashion-forward despite the dainty color, especially the draped shirt with oversized sleeves and the draped Grecian dress. A dark blue wrap dress in almost sheer fabric will be another winner among fashion-forward people around the world, the other dark blue dress with one shoulder and moderate sweetheart neckline styled with harness is also likely to be among the top sellers, even without the harness. Other standouts were the striped pieces, suits and dresses alike. Especially the dresses are done in a busy colorful striped fabric and easy to wear. Tartan pieces are bound to excite the more avant-garde followers, and even win over new territory, especially the outerwear is edgy and just quirky enough while remaining very wearable. Several other pieces also made for a fantastic show such as the blush sequined wrap dress styled with ammunition and camouflage bag pack and the brown suit with an oversized shirt with cravat and the navy-blue cape styled with camouflage shirt and pants.
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall Collection is a tailoring masterpiece with the right amount of oomph and quirkiness to excite her followers.
Zuhair Murad and the Modern Bride
Zuhair Murad is the master of bridal gowns. His new collection further enhances his reputation as someone who is constantly thinking about his craft. Tulle and silk chiffon was the foundation of the dresses that were beaded, embroidered, and embellished to convey the right balance between elegance and ingenuity. The deep V's and elegant necklines added a layer of eroticism that sometimes escapes the bridal industry. A bold and elegant bride is Zuhair's primary muse and with each gown Zuhair provides an homage to the modern bride.
Paco Rabanne and the Fiction of Functionality
by Olivia Moreau
It's blistering in Paris. The heat is further exasperated by the visual of pre-fall clothing from many formidable names in fashion, but not Paco Rabanne. Julien Dossena's ability to conjure up small yet intrinsic change to details makes this connection a sight for sore eyes and weary heat stricken body. So much so that the see-now-buy-now model seems fully workable even in this Parisian heat. Fluid knit mesh tops, arching tanks, and low-slung skirts are all part of this subtle narrative of movement and functionality while remaining true to it's core philosophy. Paco Rabanne looks, feels formidable and sporty, functional and forward thinking and we could not ask for a better pre-fall/resort set.
The Future is Here with Poster Girl
by Lotus Ladegaard
Behind Poster Girl are two designers Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville who met while studying at Central Saint Martin’s in London. After working for designers such as Christian Dior, Bvlgari, Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, John Galliano and Alexander Wang, the duo founded Poster Girl.
Poster Girl strives to be innovative and focusses on quality of each designs as well as the ethics of manufacturing. They aim to launch a limited and exclusive collection each season with the most sought after looks being made available immediately. And each season, they will bring a new signature fabric and technique to the cutting board.
Poster Girl’s latest lookbook offers an intriguing collection that feels fresh and fashion forward with a London edge that appeals to many European fashionistas. The colour palette is kept in metallic pastels; delicate blues and blush with the contrast of brighter pinks, turquoise and royal blue allowing the designs to really shine through. From high-slit dresses to tops, skirts and even scarves and bags, Poster Girls new collection has it all. The silhouettes are fresh and contemporary, the colours add a bit of glamrock to the styles.
Each style and separates come with a unique hemline, squared, zig-zag’ed or high-slit. Every garment become something more than just regular clothes; the tops are quirky and edgy, some with corset details, others are draped crop tops or one shoulder. The skirts are asymmetrical, high-slit, detailed with strings or draped. It resembles clothes that are already in most closets, yet they are far more complex and appealing. It will, however, be easy to tone the look down by pairing the separates with neutral colours and thus it is easy to fall for a more than a few of their looks. The edgy fashionistas will undoubtedly favour Poster Girl and their unique take on fashion and the details that make the brand stand out. The accessories; from bags to scarves and stockings, Poster Girl knows how to make a statement and leave an impression. Especially the bags are exquisite, fresh, fun and will certainly make you stand out in a crowd.
Poster Girl might be new to the world of fashion, but their unique eye for details and design will cement them there for years to come. Poster Girl knows the fashion world, its demand and what it takes to intrigue fashionistas and fashion editors alike. Poster girl is the Poster child of the future.
John Galliano sans John Galliano
by Olivia Moreau
John Galliano left his namesake brand in 2011 but the brand itself did not die out as it was nurtured by Galliano's confidant Bill Gaytten. Now it's 6th year without Galliano, the brand is flourishing and making a statement of its own. The ever-present blue roaring tiger embroidery on jackets and shirts, Marie Antoinette portraits on a T-shirt makes the brand more of Gaytten's brainchild as opposed to a Galliano project. And that is not a bad thing either. Gaytten infuses a sense of whimsy, a sense of movement, a sense of youthfulness that stands out and in many ways moves away from the ever long shadow of Galliano's genius. Gaytten is his own man, and John Galliano shows him in full bloom.
Erdem and the Trance of Time
by Cara Livingstone
Flowery jacquard textiles and embroideries soaked in intricacy, the ’40s tea dresses whimsical in their artistry and the powder puff–feathered boas and jackets are all part of Erdem's signature now. The London-based Turkish born designer is one of the most sought after and beloved designers of our time and with each collection he defines what it is to be a global sensation. His ability to weave beyond the realm of trends and transcend fashion into heirloom territory has made him a master of his craft. And this collection is a testament to his ability to remain at the top of his game.
The Mastery of Silhouettes with Armani
by Lotus Ladegaard
Giorgio Armani has over the years become known for both his clean tailored lines and his 2018 Resort collection does not sway from that. Although it is brighter, a tad airier and definitely more contemporary than usual yet is remains very Armani.
The color palette was delightful with poppy red, pink and a delicate blue mixed with classical Armani shades like blacks and greys and a couple of prints. The silhouettes are easy and modern yet never sways from being Armani-esque. His play with textures and fabrics adds another dimension to the collection; mixing new fabrics with natural fibres, a paperlike texture for the silk and a smoothened organza were all parts that makes this collection relevant, modern, fresh and youthful.
Armani excels when it comes to suiting and he offers plenty of variations in his 2018 Resort collection. One of the showstoppers is the black textured suit with a gray crop top underneath. Armani has a way with prints and another favourite is the printed fitted cocktail dress with a high neckline. The graphic print is bold and loud yet will appeal to many women around the globe. The dresses range from long and flowy to fitted and sleek and many in between. The little pink layered dress with halter-neck is exquisite and playful, while the flower printed pleaded dress is sophisticated and youthful. All in all, this is a collection from a master of silhouettes and drapes.
Piazza Sempione and the Rise of Italian Minimalism
by Linda Bezos
Piazza Sempione is the epitome of fusion. A fusion of minimalism and a sense of grandeur. PS's new pre-fall/ resort collection stands exactly where it needs to, in between functionality and elaborate expressionism. The Milanese house exudes a certain level of Scandinavian minimalism that is not very common within the confines of the Italian darling brands. This collection with its short trapeze-line tennis dress complemented by black piping, a scuba jersey, and a blue pleated shirtdress with an elongated waistline provides a holistic approach to minimalist aesthetics. While by definition that might seem like an oxymoron, the reality is the fine line between chic' and functional is being towed by the team at Piazza Sempione and it is a sight to behold.
The Vendetta of Color with Bottega Veneta
by the Editorial Staff
Tomas Maier came into the Resort collection/ Pre-fall collection to bridge the gap between two major collections. And while some designers may find that process tedious and necessary and inevitable distraction, Bottega Veneta approaches this collection with the utmost clarity and professionalism. From the burgundy napa coat with analogue fastening on wide-billowed pockets to the printed butterflies clamoring for attention were both products of a designer who knows what he wants and knows how to get there. Not all resort/Pre-fall collections are meant to be substantive as they are still viewed as bridge clothes, something to hold you up til the real collection pops up, but Bottega Veneta has shown to be a master at holding you up with the same intensity and whimsy as if all collections are equal.
Carolina Herrera's Secret Garden
by Erika Heinlein
Carolina Herrera has been an ever-present fixture in the world of fashion for the last three decades. And judging by the looks of the pre-fall/resort collection that is unlikely to change. This collection is an homage to her ancestral Venezuelan gardens. The flowy, flowery mix and match revolution is perfectly encapsulated in this collection of breezy gowns and taffetas. The alluring stripes complemented by summer induced fall colors is a joy to look at and even more fun wearing. It is a collection that exudes a sense of freedom that her home country has not seen in a while, but as all good artists she has created a collection of a better time or a future that is worth looking forward to.
Bridal Fall 2018 : Elie Saab's Embroidered Dreams
by Verena Lang
Elie Saab's fourth bridal collection brings in the imagery of grandeur and sophistication. Each piece has a story to tell and each piece fits with the grand narrative of Saab's vision. The white-on-white looks with exquisite embellishments introduce us to a collection that is dreamy, grand and above all perfect for the bride who appreciates intricacy over volume.
Lemlem and the Stripped Goodness of Globalization
by Linda Bezos
Liya Kebede knows her stripes and by the looks of it, she also knows what her customers want as well. The new iteration of Lemlem's resort collection suggests an astute understanding of consumer mood and an appealing sense of aesthetics that fits in quite well in hot summers that precede mild winters in most fashion capitals. With the help of Ethiopian weavers and Indian seamstresses, Lemlem is forging ahead with the aesthetics of light and summery with a few distinctive twists. The stripes and the kaleidoscopic patterns enhance a sense of whimsy within the collection while maintaining a hint of extraordinary and functional. In a world of athleisure and couture, Lemlem fits right in the middle.
