The Whimsical Blues of Erdem

by Lotus Ladegaard

Established in 2005, Erdem has become synonymous with experimental textiles, vibrant prints, versatile yet powerful femininity that speaks to a variety of women. Behind the brand also known for its detailed craftmanship is Turkish Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, who studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art and interned with Vivienne Westwood. Over the years, the talented designer has received many awards and accolades and gained a wide celebrity following. 

Drawing on inspiration from the work of photographers Diana Arbus and William Eggleston, Erdem has created an interesting and bold Resort collection that will charm his fans and intrigue new ones. Bold floral prints, dramatic collars, and vintage elbow-length gloves all culminated in several stand-out looks with tons of editorial appeal. 

Styled with unusual, at times even funny, hats, calf-length stockings and odd loafers, some looks seemed to clash more than match yet still somehow worked together. The colour palette was busy with several floral prints from the darker and dustier tones such as navy blue, black and grey to lighter tones such as pink, white and metallic silver. The Victorian and pipe collars stood out and certainly made a focal point borderlining the avant-garde yet remaining very Erdem-esque. The Turkish and Canadian designer had also played with the silhouettes almost distorting them to mimic a dress that had its lining pulled out without actually distorting them. 

Among the stand-out looks were a couple of sheer chiffon dresses in silver and navy blue with white dots styled with a sass at the waist tied in a bow as well as a pink floral coat with pleting at the back. Many of the floral dresses felt romantic and feminine with a vintage feel that undoubtedly will do well with many fashionistas around the globe. 

Erdem has created a very intriguing Resort 2019 collection with tons of editorial appeal that will only cement him further into the world of fashion.
 

Alejandra Alonso Rojas and the Rise of the Anti-Trend

by Olivia Moreau

Alejandra Alonso Rojas does not follow trends. She is part of a movement that is slowly permeating the collective psyche of consumers who are rejecting the insta-driven, blog-pushed marketing trends that follow the feral consumerism of fast fashion masquerading as art. So to classify any of AAR's work within the realms of any cycle is a hard task and we rather not do that. Ultimately her current collection is a product of her foundational values of trend-free fashion and stands proudly on excellent tailoring, bespoke work on leather and fabrics. From family albums to old French mills, AAR finds her muse, her inspiration and the love she feels for creating exquisite fabrics comes through the work she produces. Incorporating hand-techniques of old latin bespoke masters (which by the way cannot be replicated by a machine...yet), she delves into the deep end of the bespoke slow fashion revolution and few years down the road would be considered to be one of the most important designers among her peers. 

Ultimately AAR's collection is a process where a product is brought into life with the added benefit of having history and craftsmanship smeared all over it. To create vintage now is a holy grail many have tried and failed... in AAR's case failure is neither an option nor an end result. 

The Second Coming of Luisa Beccaria

by Amanda Hanson

Luisa Beccaria and Couture have always had an intricate relationship. Despite not having a proper couture collection since 1995, her work has always coat-tailed along couture among the more hip crowd. The ever-present sense of femininity with a dash of ethereal whimsy is the foundation of Luisa’s work and that is translated into a universal language of high couture in this collection. Unlike the plethora of haute couture houses who view “more as more”, Luisa focuses more on the personal experience of wearing couture… of looking at couture as the vehicle of supreme individuality. And for that, it is a great joy to welcome her back.

Zuhair Murad and the Red Dawn

by Olivia Moreau

Zuhair Murad sits firmly on top of the pile when it comes to the wedding couture market. But his non-wedding clothes has not truly made a mark up until this collection. That in itself is a surprise as Murad's catalog as impressive as almost any living greats at this point. This collection steeped in color and prints provided a fresher, younger and more untamed look to Murad's classic cuts and feminine silhouettes.  The red, the red , the red is almost as iconic looking as Valentino and the frocks and long dresses where his talent truly shines. It is a collection worth a double take. 

Built on Eileen Gray with Max Mara

Cara Livingstone

Ian Griffiths of Max Mara is not unfamiliar with the history of feminism. His latest collection finds inspiration in the life of  Eileen Gray, a female architect of the early 20th century, who broke the glass ceiling and blazed a trail through her own for a generation of female architects. Her subtle yet exquisite style is the perfect prototype for Max Mara and its philosophy. The marinière stripe knits provides the foundation for this collection and the dignified style is sure to be popular with woman of a certain class and quality. 

Isabel Marant and the Tightrope of Athleisure

by Samantha Mitten

Pre-fall is a curious time for designer houses. It's neither here nor there. So pre-fall has become a far more experimental avenue to promote what is already in the pipeline for fall. Isabel Marant understands that very well and in many ways, her pre-fall collection is a collection that is seasonless. The clever, the chic' and above all the Parisian philosophy behind these clothes are what makes them so evocative and worthy of a double take. The skin tight pants to blazers to leggings make this collection a testament to Isabel's ability to find equipoise between leisure and athletic without going overboard into athleisure territory. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

The Edge of Noir with Kei Ninomiya

by Lotus Ladegaard

Inspired by his mentor, Rei Kawabuko, Kei Ninomiya continues to develop his own aesthetics by experimenting with textiles, pattern-cuts, and assembly techniques. The Japanese designer’s signature construction method is linking various laser-cut pieces together. His style is elegant avant-garde, and his collections certainly leave an impact.

The Fall 2021 collection entitled Metal Couture featured stainless-steel spikes, a play on silhouettes as well as some of his signature quirky avant-garde looks.

The spiked pieces felt eery and fabulously dark such as the first look with a sheer skirt with clusters of metal pearls and stainless-steel spikes on the bodice and shoulders or the balloon-shaped dress in black organza with the same pattern of pearl clusters.

The collection also featured some intriguing looks such as the pin-striped, purple, and black layered dress with ruffles as well as the pant-like skirt with oversize ruffled neckline shirt which was also featured on the sleeves.

As the showstopper, Kei Ninomiya had chosen a silver organza dress which seemed to be constructed to resemble the stainless-steel spikes on the first look. The dress was breath-taking, interesting, and very Kei Ninomiya.

With so many stand-out pieces, the collection will not be forgotten any time soon. While wearability might play a factor in its commercial success, editorially it will undoubtedly stand out.

Vera Wang on Nostalgia

by Zoey Grossman

Vera Wang started off as a designer of immense promise and a practitioner of art. Her promise is fully realized and there is no bigger name in Bridal wear than Vera. And from that privileged position which is fully earned Vera goes back to her roots of creating pieces that are wearable art. The grand narrative firmly entrenched within her work's DNA, the silhouettes are soothing yet bigger than life, she produces another collection worth writing home about. 

The New Normal with Viktor and Rolf

by Lotus Ladegaard

For this season, Viktor and Rolf could not host a presentation but instead had to rely on the virtual showing. Nevertheless, the Bridal Spring 2021, has so much editorial appeal that we do not mind at all. The Dutch designer duo delivered intriguing collection filled with the intricate and beautiful details, we have come to expect from the couture fashion brand. The collection featured looks for, not just a single type of woman, but for a variety of them. The silhouettes featured statement pieces as well as softer, easier silhouettes than prior seasons.

Pieces like the easy-to-wear dress with ruffled neckline and back and pockets along with the one-sleeved kaftan like dress stood out as showstoppers. The Bridal Spring 2021, Viktor and Rolf collection did not lack the couture dresses either. Pieces like the fitted one-shoulder dress with a large bow and draped half-cape effect at the back along with the art-deco trained dress with a bow at the top and the strapless ballgown embellished with 3D flowers and tuile underneath were Viktor and Rolf classics that surely will excite their loyal following. Viktor and Rolf’s Bridal Spring 2021 collection was full of showstoppers and stand-out pieces. It will undoubtedly do well with fashionistas and fashion editors alike around the globe.

Giving into Givenchy

By Linda Bezos

Givenchy knows what it is doing. This pre-fall collection is all about lines and details. From printed suits to chic' coats the entire collection is set up to convey the confidence of a brand that is at it's creative best. Multi-colored skirts and brooding sunglasses are complemented by delicate long coats whimsical belts. It is a collection meant for people who already know what they like and have no problem acquiring them. 

Vera Wang's Color Revolution

by Linda Bezos

Vera Wang does Vera Wang like no other does Vera Wang. This collection of bridal wear oozes with class and clarity of a designer who is not too bothered by the restraints of tradition. Vera Wang's collection reformulates the notion of bridal wear and incorporates a different classic...Vermeer. Edgy romanticism with a homage to probably the first painter photographer is a perfect equipoise for this collection as it is steeped in forward-thinking constructs that would stand the test of time. Rebecca Moses did the hand-painted detailing to further substantiate Vera's place on the throne of bridal wear. The beauty of this collection is not only in its uniqueness but also in the fact that despite doing away with some traditions, VW firmly remains grounded on romanticism. And that dance you cannot learn before a wedding, you are born with it.

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Balmain and the Natural High of Francophiles

by Linda Bezos

Olivier Rousteing is hot right now. Everything he touches turns to gold. The highly anticipated makeup line of Balmain (debuting in September) is just another commercial achievements Balmain has ticked off in the last few years. Commercial success aside, Balmain's collection have gotten more and more artistic and avant-garde and that speaks volumes about the genius of Olivier's vision. The resort collection is the exuberant extension of Balmain's pro-France line and by the looks of it, it is likely to be commercially as successful as any Balmain line. 

 

Photographs Courtesy of Balmain. 

Calvin Klien and the American Divide

by Olivia Moreau

A hallucinatory farm scene in the New York stock exchange seems like an appropriate way of presenting Calvin Klien/Raf Simons new iteration on the American classic. The aesthetic was purely directed toward the Americana meets Justin Timberlake crowd but it was done in a way that even the most notorious of doubters can get into it. The transitional nature of the clothes from stripped fireman jackets to chiffon gowns were all part of the narrative of American division, and the inevitable divide that separates the prosperous coasts from the struggling underbelly of the midwest. As if you push that point home the visuals (paper popcorn bags) exuded a tense balance between a country divided and a country trying to move forward. It was probably the best show during an underwhelming fashion week. 

Minimalism's Protagonist

by Lotus Ladegaard

Georgia Lazarro's Protagonist is a protagonist when it comes to minimalism. While other brands have overused and confused the term, Protagonist always manages to deliver and while offering a bit of a New York twist to scandi-looking fashion.

It is subtleties that casually hides within the Protagonist collection. It is where the brand stands out and it is part of their DNA. It also means that silhouettes will evolve from season to season and can be worn in many ways. At first glance, many of them, however, might come off as masculine and unisex, but the more you look at them the more delicate and feminine they become.

Protagonist's 2018 Resort Collection stands out in that usual Protagonist way, it is interesting, minimalist, stylish and fashion forward. 

The 2018 Resort Collection offers the shirts and slip-dresses that have become synonymous with the brand. It also introduces new feminine and delightful pieces such as a cropped jacket and ruffled collars on the shirts. The collection is due to hit the stores in the autumn so Georgina Lazarro also included knitted sweaters and warmer looking coats and jackets. The color palette is surprisingly held in darker tones such as navy, burgundy, black and white, but also offered splashes of colour with a yellow sweater and pastel light blue pieces.

The collection, while not for every woman, will undoubtedly excite fans and followers, but Georgina Lazarro has added enough oompf and it factor to win over many more.

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Naeem Khan's Summer in the Winter

by Abigail Smith-Rowe

Naeem Khan is a staple when it comes to bridal wear. As he expands his deft touches to the ever evolving market of in-between clothes, he is acutely aware of the needs of his jet-setting clients. This 2019 collection is an homage to that clientele who are on the move, who will be attending weddings and engagements during the summer at greek islands and south african coasts. The color palette of the clothes are wildly satisfying and they are easily portable unlike a wedding dress. Naeem’s work here is relatively more minimalist in terms of silhouettes and lines. His bread and butter remains tie-ins and convertible pantsuits yet this collection touches all aspect of that elusive summer that will come eventually.

Love in Lisbon with Galia Lahav

By Andrea Arjento

Galia Lahav’s head designer Sharon Sever took on Lisbon at it’s most clear and most enigmatic and unfurled a set of gowns worthy for a torrid love affair that is their inspiration. While it may seem counter-intuitive to have bridal gowns as an homage to torrid love affairs on paper, the reality is all love affairs worth writing about has a certain element of torrid-ness to it. And Sharon is able to weave that element of variability into a fairytale that looks wonderfully complex and elegant. This specific collection has all the signature Galia Lahav details but in many ways, it is also the most realistic exploration of the fairytales we tell ourselves. And for that, we are in love with Galia Lahav's Lisbon collection.

Diane von Furstenberg's Pioneer Women

by Olivia Moreau

Diane von Furstenberg's spring collection is a homage to a different kind of pioneer women than the wild west. It is more of a concept as opposed to an historical repeat. The women trailblazer are the pioneer women in DVF's eyes. And this homage is partly based on what they would wear now and partly based on the 'homely' and humble aspect of life as a woman. It is a product of DVF's inherent and uncanny ability to mix cultural shifts into traditionalism. From the softened color palette to outright mixture of prints, this collection stands out. 

The Unveiling of Jonathan Cohen

by Sylvia Stoss

It is almost a surprise to find out that Jonathan Cohen has never shown during NYFW. In his first outing on the famed but subdued platform, Jonathan did what he does best...mesmerize his clientele with outright levity. From lean dresses with botanical prints to structured mini in a rainbow all came with the customary JC look. The raw edges, the oversized sleeves are always there but JC's work has evolved into truly encapsulating the many colorful facets of being a modern woman in these times. As almost a countermeasure to negative colors JC poured all the colors of the spectrum into his collection and our eyes and our sense of style are thankful for it. 

Burberry's Generational Inclusivity with Riccardo Tisci

by Lana Hamid

Burberry has always been the favorite of traditionalists. Before Riccardo Tisci’s arrival it was a brand that was most comfortable within the realm of uptight sophistication and occasional burst of legacy obsession. To call Burberry (pre-Tisci) boring would have been a bit harsh but accurate. That label is wearing off with each collection Tisci is producing. In his second full collection Tisci takes on the generational divide and bridges them with traditional and non-traditiional silhouettes, clever infusion of color and above all an imposing collection of the rebirth of Burberry 2.0. The rigidity is now complemented by fluidity, the beige icons are complement by blue and red. And the traditionalists and the avant-garde-ists are both equally represented as a happy medium. Re-inventing Burberry is harder than it looks but the ease to which Tisci has gone about dismantling the cobwebs of comfort into a frenzy of dynamism is worth admiring, applauding and above replicating.

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