LFW AW17 : Dial M for Mimi

by Laura Hempstead 

"Without realizing I've designed an alternative to my school uniform" says Mimi Wade of her AW17 collection. Specifically, the corduroy which appears for the first time in a collection by the London-based designer. "At school, the uniforms were so ugly that everyone would put their dark green skirts on a boil wash in the machine 20 times over so they would become a more attractive pale, blue-y turquoise". The same pale, blue-y turquoise features throughout Mimi's collection. And it has a rather intoxicating quality that is steeped in nostalgia and avant-garde goodness. 

Mimi Wade's collection has always been driven by prints and a whimsical sense of realism. And this collection is an extension of that narrative and ultimately fits in well with her previous collections.The introduction of knitwear is bound to be popular with the in-crowd and overall the collection is a step towards the right direction. While this is not revolutionary it has enough spark to suggest Mimi's creativity is truly forming into a formidable force and among the young and emerging designers her work is worth a good look. 

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NYFW AW17 : Tory Burch Dresses Tracy Lord and That's The Philadelphia Story

by Andrea Austin Perez

Tory Burch wants us to find solace in her new collection at a time when everything in the USA seems combustible. The political instability, the demagoguery. the alternative facts are the basis for a lot of our woes. And Tory Burch, a Pennsylvania native knows it too well. Her fall collection is an homage to Tracy Lord (Katerine Hepburn)  of The Philadelphia Story and with each single look, you got the impression that the well tailored, blue-blooded look Tory was going for is lifted from a handbook of what Tracy Lord would wear.

This exquisite collection had the gravitas of a well-heeled socialite and the levity of a rebel.  In many ways, this is a synthesis of Tracy Lord being dressed by Tory Burch. And in many ways, it is just as magical as it sounds. 

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Couture Week 17 : Maison Margiela and the Concert of Upheaval

by Olivia Moreau 

Political graffiti as fashion has had a long tradition within streetwear. But it has rarely graced the edges of couture. John Galliano just changed that age old structure by introducing a collection that is removed from the structural formation of not only what is acceptable but also what is literally possible. Through the means of absent seams and basic hemlines Galliano is taking Maison Margiela where no designer has gone in a long time. There is no singular narrative, there is no singular cause to this collection but a general feeling of being present in the moment that drives it to a point of genius. It is a critique of Americana and an homage to the 60s in many ways. But it is not an simple as a protest vote or a love letter. It remains within the equipoise of a moment stuck in time unable to forgo and unable to comprehend. Galliano's work here is philosophy masquerading as protest masquerading as fashion wear. It is not an easy collection to get into, but nothing worth having is easy. 

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Couture Week 17 : Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel's Feathered Touch

by Carolina Arbucci 

Karl Lagerfeld likes the whimsy of fashion. Each Chanel show usually end up having a plethora of inside jokes and visual puns to make light of the absurdity of high fashion. And that signature move is not going anywhere. That being said, haute couture has limited scope of such levity and Lagerfeld knows it. Chanel's couture collection exuded a certain clarity about the role of couture. Elegant and whimsical with elongated lines and crinoline skirts, feathered with glittery mirrored aesthetics made the collection both functional while being steeped in the glory that is Chanel. As usual the attention to detail was present and with each passing look it became abundantly clear that Chanel is not forgoing its throne to anyone anytime soon. 

 

 

 

Couture Week 17 : Iris van Herpen and the Search for Life on Mars

by Olivia Moreau 

Iris van Herpen's latest couture collection is aptly named "Between the Lines". The 16 looks she presented were a dissection of lines and symmetry using handcasted polyurethane.  The intricacy of her work is only rivaled by the complexity of these seemingly simple designs that inhibit her artistic repertoire. The transparent lens like structure is as much of a dress as it is a piece of soon to be fabled art. This couture collection is ultimately a product of the designer full vision and what a splendid vision it is. The intense cycle of development from of each line to a full on dress is mind-boggling and the sheer expertise behind these dresses not only bodes well for Iris but also for the industry in general. Innovation rarely looked so good! 

 

 

 

Berlin AW17 : Guarding the Avant-Garde Castle with Isabel Vollrath

by Julie Lang 

Isabel Vollrath is the darling of Berlin's avant-garde scene. Looking at her AW17 collection would tell you why. Her ability to cross boundaries and casually bypass genres, is something to behold. If she was a singer she would be someone like Beck, if she was a painter she would be someone like Lin Ke. As a designer she creates silhouettes in every form and with the brevity of her needlework they take on a life of their own. In many ways her work is an art installation masquerading as fashion wear, or as fashion insiders call it avant-garde couture. What is unique about this collection and Isabel in general is her ability to keep her conceptual art functional. None of her looks would ever be considered over-the-top, yet they all share the DNA of something amazing, fresh and ultimately very very sellable. While some may find her color pallets to be traditionalist, the tailoring of the garments is anything but. In many ways Isabel at a relatively young age has figured out that balance. And it seems nothing can trip her up in her quest for glam and glory. 

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Berlin AW17: Ewa Herzog and the Decadence of Subtle

by Clara Meade 

Ewa Herzog finds inspiration in Berlin, a city she loves. Since 2010 she has had a constant presence in the city and it's fashion circle and each passing year that circle expands and she garners more attention along with admirers. And it is easy to see why. Her AW17 collection is a mixture of high fashion with ultra-feminine silhouettes which would appeal to both the functional woman and the woman who enjoys understated luxury. The color palettes are simple enough but the intricate embroidery complement by the exquisite fabric formulated a narrative of great substance and vigor. It is not a collection that would instantly stun you with color, neither it is a collection meant to inspire shock and awe, but it is collection that would grow on you and your wardrobe and before you know it, it will take over your wardrobe. The singular philosophy that drives Ewa is also the philosophy that drives this collection in being a representative form of art and vehicle of great commerce. Ewa has reached a point in her artistry where commercial success is almost inevitable as her work is so good. And this AW17 collection adds to that good-ness.  

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Berlin AW17 : Lana Mueller and the Cult of Elegance

by Gemma Livingstone 

Lana Mueller the brainchild of Gelena Roizen and Lana Mueller lit up the second day of the Berlin Fashion Week. It is hard to imagine that this is Lana Mueller's second show. The experience that comes from having a clear vision and the skill-set to reach create that vision into reality was all too present within Lana and Gelenas' AW17 collection. If SS17 was an indication of great things to come, then this was a true homecoming. From exquisitely tailors silhouettes to devil may care flows of the dresses, Lana Mueller created a narrative that is ultimately tradition but steeped in couture and dress making. Between a plethora of androgyny and athleisure invading the catwalk,  Lana Mueller's collection stood out as a tall drink of water. The inherent attraction of the clothes presented today may be in their solid color palettes and whimsical flows, but they will settle into a beautiful shade of nostalgia as this collection hits the wardrobes of fashionistas and women of taste. Every single piece had a small story to tell and the grand narrative remained neatly tied into each piece. The beauty of the collection is both in detail and in its grand vision. And that level of equipoise only comes when you have been honing your talent to the point of a religion and your skill to the point of habit. Lana Mueller's AW17 collection would go down as one of the stronger collections envisioned this year, not because of the bells and whistles of the show (there were none) but because the clothes held their own and exuded a sense of quiet elegance.   

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Berlin AW17 : Lena Hoschek for the Win

by Clara Meade

Lena Hoschek is the darling of German fashion. While bigger houses have branched out in pursuit of global glory Lena has remained a secret for many outside Germany and Austria. Since she set up her label in 2005 she is slowly building up to be a creative force in german fashion that cannot be overlooked anymore. With her AW17 collection shown today during Berlin Fashion Week, she has produced a collection full of vigor, substance, and whimsy. And to do that with such meticulous attention to detail is worth applauding. Each piece bore details of a creative at the top of her game. Lena Hoschek is not a dark horse anymore, she has become a full blown contender for the crown jewel of german fashion and the sooner we recognize it, the better. 

 

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