Van Graaf's Emerging Talents

by the Editorial Staff

The second day of the Mercedes-Benz Prague fashion week was dominated by the Van Graaf Junior Talent show which is the equivalent of the Vogue Fashion Fund in bigger markets. The top students of Czech fashion schools compete to get their designs noticed and celebrated during this customary event. This year's young designers were Adam Kost, Lukáš Krnáč, Zoltan Toth and AiM, a brand founded by Michaela Hriňová. What was evident from all the new designers was a general trend of deconstruction and incorporation of both classical and modern narratives. Adam Kost's loose poncho like coats had a lucid and elaborate quality to it. Lukas Krnac's take on the soccer field as a wearable statement was exceptionally clever and was filled with whimsy and understated charm. AiM provided a balanced and comprehensive take on the streetwear phenomenon that has taken up a giant market share in the last decade. But for all their excellent work, the work that stood out was of Zoltán Tóth. His ability to produce an ultra-feminine-functional couture-like collection was truly exceptional. What made his mini-collection stood out was the intricacy of his work and his ability to fuse separate narratives into one cohesive expression of ideas. While some aspect of that sort of interplay between silhouettes and lines were evident in Lukas's work as well, Zoltan made it look seamless (no pun intended). Ultimately all four junior designers had very distinct looks varying from experimental street wear to functional couture. And it is not hard to envision at least a few of them finding a global market as they grow in an industry that is evolving and expanding. 

                                                              ZOLTÁN TÓTH

                                                               LUKÁŠ KRNÁČ

                                                                         AiM 

                                                                  ADAM KOST 

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Emilie Helmstedt's Summer of Colorful Rebellion

by Lotus Ladegaard

Emilie Helmstedt is one most celebrated newcomers within the Danish industry. The young designer hopes she will be remembered for her overall aesthetics rather than specific collections. And her current foray into that grand mosaic is remains consistent with that vision.

Emilie Helmstedt's universe is colorful and playful. She prefers easy silhouettes of refined luxurious loungewear as opposed to the cut throat elements of minimalism that has been so prevalent within danish fashion. So it is easy to stand out in color soaked thrills and frills that dictate Emilie’s world.

For SS20, Emilie Helmstedt created a bold and colorful collection that felt playful and fresh. Models walked a runway decorated like a forest with bright red mushrooms and green patches. The silhouettes were easy-to-wear, voluminous and easy. The color palette was packed with bold and bright colors and prints. Several pieces stood out and made for an exciting show such as the easy-to-wear purple a-line dress and a red and white checkered coat styles with pants in the same textile and print.

Another favorite was the rainbow checkered dress with draped sleeves and styled with a bonnet. Emilie Helmstedt delivered an exciting and playful collection in line with her previous work. It is easy and intriguing to detect how she is evolving.

Credits:

Styling: Helmstedt

Music: Esben Weile

Choreography: Ronni Morgenstjerne

Hair: Anne Cofone, Studio Cim Mahony & Barnholdts

Makeup: Rikke Dengsø assisted by Yasmine Gigi, M.A.C Cosmetics

Set-design Graffvallant & Andrea Bjørløw assistance by Svend Brandt

Guest management: Patriksson Group

Production: Nikoline Oda Gomolka

Jewelry: Niels Monies

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