Copenhagen Fashion Week Day 3 Highlights

by Ana Paula de Santana | Lotus Ladegaard

The last day of the Copenhagen fashion week did not throw out any curve balls. It was consistent, elegant and at times too even tempered, just like the country itself. That being said, it is not entirely a bad thing if you produce consistently good fashion. Copenhagen has become on of those cities where people can come for fashion tourism. And the last day is a good testament to the vibrant fashion communities within Copenhagen and across Scandinavia.

Hoffman Copenhagen was surely the most visually accomplished show of the day. Heidi Hoffman started Hoffman in 2011 after working within the industry for a while. Her ability to mix linear details into elegant silhouettes is worth a double take. Creation of unique and Hoffman only patchwork styles along with a strict focus of repurposing fabric to make a fully sustainable brand slow fashion brand are all great attributes of Hoffman Copenhagen. It also tells you that the designer herself is fully aware of the impact of fashion waste makes. But it is one thing to be environmentally conscious and another to be able to find the right equipoise of that consciousness and elegant design. Hoffman reaches that point rather effortlessly. The notion of “Strong Woman” and what she wears is in process of dissection in this collection and Heidi makes it an aesthetic joy as she explores the pitfalls and highs of constructing an wardrobe that appeals to the nuances of a person who is both strong and gentle at the same time. The color palettes are nothing to write home about but the way they are used, so cleverly, so purposefully to express a certain sense of longing is worth a novel. Hoffman Copenhagen is one of our favorite shows in this cycle of CPHFW.

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is not a newcomer in any regard yet her work exudes a bit of raw energy that has not been part of the Swedish design creed. Poised (at times literally) with brooding prints and solid palette with symmetrical silhouettes makes this collection soaked in a lot of visual pleasure and functionality. The accessories are equally hot to the weather and the scene. Global, intricate and above all assured in her abilities Carin, does not pull off any punches but subtly influences pushing the envelope. The progression of Rodebjer as a brand and as an aesthetic vehicle is evident in each look and not many designer can do that with such subtlety.

At this point, Naja Munthe is more or less, a staple on the Danish fashion scene, and really ought not to be missed regardless of seasons. She may have had a somewhat dull beginning, but in later seasons she has picked up where Munthe Plus Simonsen left and fused it with her own play on Athleisure, which has resulted in exciting and intriguing collections, season after season.

The color palette was busy yet felt fresh and easy and offered a little bit of everything. The collection also featured anything you would want from a wardrobe from outerwear, suiting and dresses to sweaters, shirts, pants, slacks, and accessories. The silhouettes were easy, layered and fitted without being tight. Naturally, the collection also offered several pieces with Munthe's own play on Athleisure.

Several looks stood out and made an impact such as the long green classic check wool poncho with red and white lining along with the long green short-sleeved anorak styled with a PVC tartan printed jacket underneath and the layered see-through chiffon dress styled with a simple black t-shirt and grey and beige leggings underneath. Another favorite was the black and red check jacket with poncho effect sleeves styled with a white shirt and printed sweater as well as the printed crème shirt and black slacks with had that Munthe Athleisure about it.

Munthe's visual consistency immediately harks back to the streets of Copenhagen. And to capture that essence with such accuracy bodes well for the future of the design house.

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Copenhagen Fashion Week Day 2 Highlights

by Sylvia Schaff | Lotus Ladegaard

If day one of the CPHFW was mostly about new designers, then the second day of the truncated fashion week was all about the Danish established brands and the ones that are getting there. So to stand out during a day of heavy hitters requires not only talent but also poise to come out as seamlessly as possible. The first show that really stood out because of its elegance was of Morten Ussing.

Morten Ussing tailored his first vintage coat at the age of 14. In fact, the Danish designer has had an interest in design and clothing since childhood when he taught himself to sketch and stitch. After graduating from the Kolding School of Design as well as the prestigious Central Saint Martins School in London, he gatecrashed onto the Danish fashion scene with a collection in 2016 and has since made a name for himself with timeless yet contemporary pieces. With a very Scandinavian minimalistic approach, he creates garments that are supposed to empower women, making them feel feminine, elegant and bold.

For AW19, Morten Ussing presented his collection at the Hotel D’Angleterre. The collection as a whole lacked the excitement his SS19 collection had but featured several stand out looks that are bound to appeal to its followers and fashion editors alike.

The color palette featured a black base fused with several pastels and bold bright orange and shiny embellishments. The silhouettes were classic, elongated and fitted. Dresses such as the blue and black toned dress with see-through sweater-like top and bow at the waist stood out, as well as the orange knit top with an orange satin skirt with asymmetrical hemline. Another stand out was the black suit embellished with little shiny anthracite balls and the black dress with low decollate and long voluminous sleeves styled with an intriguing headpiece.

Emilie Helmstedt, is the brains behind Helmstedt, a colorful and playful universe with simple yet powerful silhouettes. Her easy-to-wear 30’s and 50’s inspired loungewear were exclusively sold in collaboration with the very popular high-end boutique Holly Golightly in Copenhagen. It is not hard to see why she is so valued within the Danish industry as her ability to deconstruct color and simplify the the process of imposing them as a form of levity is unique specially in a country that values black and grey over red and blue. Helmstedt is unlikely to be a talk of the town if you lived in New York or Paris because such color palettes are not unique but it is likely to be a talk of the town due to the fantastic silhouettes it provides. Emillie’s training as a tailor is evident in each strand of fabric, and her training as an artist is equally visible in the poise which she unfurls such wonderful creations. Despite being a day full of established designers, Helmstedt stood out with the poise of a veteran and the force of youthful ingenuity.

Lala Berlin was founded in 2004 as high-quality knitwear brand by designer Leyla Piedayesh. It quickly became a darling of the Berlin fashion scene and remains so. After its humble beginnings Lala Berlin has branched out to create entire collections ranging from crowd favorite iconic shawls and scarves to dresses, shorts, jumpsuits and more. Edgy but understated, sharp but with a sense of whimsy are the modus operandi for Lala Berlin and in this collection she holds the line exceptionally well. Leyla’s ability to hem together silhouettes that are tailored yet free from the shackles of rigid structure is admirable. Introduction of color with whimsical sets of purses and bags made this collection by the far the most complete collection of the Copenhagen Fashion Week. And there lies the beauty of experience and talent when they mesh effortlessly.

While SS19 was a somewhat dull affair both collection and presentation, Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur had certainly decided on something entirely different for their AW19 collection. Instead of a traditional runway show, the contemporary fur brand had decided to create a presentation live art at the Gallery Christoffer Egelund in the center of Copenhagen. Much in line with the DNA of the brand, this was done in a quirky and whimsical way, starting with cold vodka-slush ice on the pavement in front of the gallery.

The AW19 collection named The Peculiar Collection is inspired by the peculiar women everywhere. Women who feel comfortable in themselves and dares to be different. Women like a young Drew Barrymore with big curly hair, the classy Cate Blanchett in the movie Carol, Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby and British Vogue’s Fashion Editor-at-Large Julia Sarr-Jamois. Much like their inspiration, Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur had chosen a palette of colorful women of all ages and sizes for each of their live art pieces.

The Peculiar Collection features outerwear pieces, silk pieces, wool pieces and both leather- and fur accessories, which each made an impact in the way they were shown. Models were lined up doing everyday stuff such as ironing, brushing teeth and picking flowers, others sat down at a fancy high tea table eating cup noodles or sat down picking pieces for the wall or combing their hair each with a little quote next to them.

Several pieces stood out such as the brown wool coat with big fluffy Finn raccoon fur cuffs styled with a pair of brown silk pants on a model sitting down picking pieces for the wall and the printed silk set consisting of dress and pants on a model who seemed to be pensively staring. The classic long silver blue mink coat on a model brushing her teeth and texting also left an impression along with the bomber hat of fox fur styled with white boxer briefs on a model ironing silk scarf.

In the proverbial ballpark of fashion baseball, this presentation would be considered a home run.

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