Copenhagen AW 17 : Martin Asbjørn meets Lala Berlin

by Lotus Ladegaard

Martin Asbjørn was founded in 2012 by designer Martin Asbjørn Bjerre, who graduated from The Design and Technical Tailoring Academy in 2011 with a degree in Men’s tailoring. His design signature is a juxtapose between design and attention to detail with an emphasis on tailoring and materials. Martin Asbjørn is all about balancing sharp and soft tailoring to create an easy to wear yet elegant silhouette. He aims to offer men a choice of comfort yet a sexy feel in a well cut and made style.

Martin Asbjørn’s AW17 collection was an homage to tailoring. Models came down the runway at Copenhagen International Fashion Fair styled edgy and clean. Fitted coats, jackets, tops and pants beautifully tailored in luxurious materials. The color palette was mostly dark and wintery with a few white notes. A long brown coat and a burgundy print added some warmth to the palette. 

While Martin Asbjørn is mainly a men’s wear designer, he also made room for some ladies wear, which were both rather exquisite. The black shirt with fringed sleeves with the dark brown suede trousers was one of my favorite styles and can be worn by women of any shape. His outerwear was crowd favorite part and rightly so, as that is where he excels. His eye for detail, materials and his tailoring is masterful. He, too, had made room for a couple of looks dressed in athleisure with the right amount of edge to it. 

Martin Asbjørn’s AW17 collection offered masterful tailoring for anyone who likes to dress to impress. 


Lala Berlin was founded in 2004 by designer Leyla Piedayesh and started as a high-quality knitwear brand, but quickly grew a big following in Berlin and beyond and today, has branched out to create entire collections ranging from the iconic shawls and scarves to dresses, shorts, jumpsuits and more. Lala Berlin is the German capital’s spirit in comfortable easy to wear garments that are still luxurious, elegant and glamorous with a bit of edge. Lala Berlin has a strong celebrity following including Heidi Klum, Claudia Schiffer, Mischa Barton, Natalie Portman, Cameron Diaz, Heike Makatasch and Eva Padberg. 

Lala Berlin’s AW17 collection was shown at Nikolaj Kunsthal an old church converted into an art space and somehow suited the brand really well. The color palette was kept in dark colors with a few notes of bright orange, mustard yellow, beige and loud prints. A recurring theme seemed to be asymmetrical embellishments, sleeves, cuts and hemlines, which at times felt a bit forced as it seemed to be more of less every single style. The outerwear along with the blazers are sublime and will have a huge following, I am sure. The knitwear in bold colours with fringes are edgy and reminds me of Berlin along with the skin pieces. The print pieces are among my favourites and almost had a summery air about them despite the autumn colours. 

The showstopper was not a garment, but instead, Leyla Piedayesh came out and held up a sign saying: I AM AN IMMIGRANT while the audience gave her standing ovations. Lala Berlin’s AW collection was in every way very lala Berlin.

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Copenhagen AW 17: Oh! By Kopenhagen Fur meets Hærvæk

by Lotus Ladegaard

Hærværk, which means vandalism in Danish, was founded by Niels Gundtoft Hansen who debuted on Copenhagen Fashion Week, last season. He is a graduate of Royal College of Art in Menswear. Hærværk is inspired by oil sea, wet asphalt and the rusty containers that litter the Danish seafront. The design style is street couture avant-garde with many references to Denmark and the Danish culture even though one might think it is more street than couture, there is some fusion in his work. 

Held at an auto mechanic shop in North of Copenhagen, Hærværk’s AW17 collection was every bit as crude as the venue. The color palette was very colorful, however, far from as loud as they could have been. The pieces were edgy, crude and detailed. Models came down the runway in trash-bag-shoes in a sort of pattern that was far too neat and somehow did not fit the collection or the venue. While the collection builds on his SS17 collection, it had more variety despite fewer looks. From oversized baggy tops and bulky jackets to more fitted garments, Hærværk showed a wider range and even included a female look with a low back tank top and shorts. 

While it can still be questioned how wearable the collection is as shown, the individual pieces are still very intriguing and can be mixed with a wardrobe of street wear. The overall feel and look of the collection might still be too avant-garde and different to some, it will certainly still have an audience and a loyal one at that. 

                           
Oh! By Kopenhagen Fur,
on the other hand, is a Danish luxury accessory brand primarily focussing on bags and charms. Oh! is modern sophistication with a commercial appeal. Oh! operates on the philosophy that fur is part of our DNA, however, fur does not have to be taken so serious and thus design pieces with a fair amount of humour. Oh! has a strong following and a long history stemming from its mother company. Oh continues to deliver pieces that fashionistas of any ages favour. In a time where fur is ever more unpopular, Oh! and Kopenhagen fur is not looking to convince people to wear fur, but instead take sustainable responsibility for their production. 

Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur's AW17 show was the highlight of Tuesday. Dancers dressed in dust and dusty leotards stood on squared pillars as the curtain fell. Each dancer performed separately and accordingly to the music drawing inspiration from several dance genres from ballet to contemporary to isolations and African dance. The show was all about diversity and respect for others and their opinions. 

The accessories were worn in anything but a traditional way and while the show might not have highlighted the pieces, the actual show was definitely memorable and inspiring and received a long applause from an audition in awe. 

Bags in leather with fur embellishment, fur charms were featured on the dancers. The colour palette was diverse and span from natural fur colours to orange, purple, red and burgundy. The pieces were charming, humoristic with that Oh! Sophistication. I especially enjoyed the little charms that one can attach to a bag or other accessories. 

Undoubtedly, we will see many fashionistas with an Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur accessory. 

Both these shows provided us with a glimpse of what is good about Danish design... Rugged streetware and Elegant, whimsical fur. 

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