Oslo is for Lovers : A Study in Holzweiler

by Omi

Oslo runway had a few notable shows. While designers like Cathrine Hammel and Bytimo furthered their reputation as brands that are developing rapidly, the fashion week belonged to Holzweiler.

Holzwieler which started off as a strictly accessories line (cashmere and silk scarves) evolved into a clothing line in 2014. Generally when that happens brands tend to take a tentative step toward the new market but Holzwieler hit the ground running and their SS17 collection shows a certain promise and maturity that defy conventional wisdom. The exquisite setting at the Edvard Munch atelier provided the first glimpse of the ambition of the brand. As models rolled in with prints and pastel, beige and blue, the gloomy afternoon lit up with color and the traditionalist notion of monochrome Scandinavian design was out the window. The surprising wearability of the clothes on display stood out. The fine line between conceptual art and fashion design was distinctly evident in the colors, movements, and contours of Holzwieler. This is a brand that has successfully translated what works on accessories into what works on everyday wear. It is a rather unique feat as most if not all who take that route fail to tow that delicate line to create a line worth writing about. The beauty and brashness of the color complemented Edvard Munch’s atelier. But instead of all of us screaming in strange litost, we were pleasantly surprised by the maturity and poise of Holzweiler. 

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Omi is an editor at Deux. His photographic work can seen at the Smithsonian, Vogue and a plethora of fashion magazines. 

Zac Posen NYFW SS17: A House Built on Style

by Lotus Ladegaard

Zac Posen hardly needs any kind of introduction as one of the top American designers. He has a built a true American Fashion house in just 15 years. He is known for his artisanal craftsmanship, anatomical construction and textile manipulation. 

His SS17 collection consisted of many different looks from daytime wear to evening wear that will appeal to a very wide range of audiences. The colour palette was kept in dusted colour tones, yet it remained intriguing due to his choice of fabric; a very modern selection of embroidered- and manipulated fabrics that by the first look seemed heavy, yet it moved light and ethereal down the runway. Diagonal lines, pointed necklines and innovative use of seams, incisions and pleats made for a very coherent collection that had a little bit of everything for any kind of body type. 

With the SS17 collection, Zac Posen has created another wonderful body of work that is imaginative yet grounded in functionality. It is a happy medium between couture and everyday wear. 

 

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Lotus Ladegaard is a Copenhagen based fashion writer and house model.