Standing Out with Étoile Isabel Marant

by Lotus Ladegaard

Originally launched as Twen, the French fashion house Isabel Marant has been around since 90s. In its early beginnings, the brand only featured a line of jersey and knitwear but has since moved on to consist of several lines including Men’s Wear and the more affordable and casual line Etoile. Designer Isabel Marant collaborated with H&M on a collection, which sold out in minutes online and caused the website to crash. Although the French designer has faced many challenges in recent years, she has persevered and continue to create exciting and bold collections.

For Spring 19, Isabel Marant has created an Etoile floral and ruffled collection with adorable and interesting pieces that certainly will appeal to a world of her loyal followers. It is feminine, contemporary and feels fresh and thus will speak to young fashionistas. The collection features a bundle of separates that will easily be adapted into most existing wardrobes. The colour palette was anything but simple, but instead had a little of everything along with many floral prints. The silhouettes were sleek and tailored and offered pieces for most occasions. 

Isabel Marant knows how to make her pieces stand out and offer fashionable alternatives, so it is no surprise that her Etoile Spring 19 collection had it all. Several pieces and looks stood out like the blue shirt almost resembling a vest with red sleeves styled with cut-out trousers, and the pastel dress with ruffled shoulders and slightly puffed sleeves gathered at the waist. Some of the subtler pieces also stood out like the grey blazer styled with a white detailed shirt and cut-out shorts, and the flowy floral dress in dark brown and burnt orange. A few pieces felt somewhat boring and unimportant, however, overall Isabel Marant delivered a beautiful Etoile Spring 19 collection that will excite many.

Isabel Marant knows women want to stand out and dressed in her garments, they are bound to do exactly that in this collection.
 

Kimonos and Metalworks of Fendi

by Lotus Ladegaard

With just a few years short of 100 years in the world of fashion, it is no surprise that the Italian house of fashion is a household name and a staple in its industry. Led by the fifth generation Fendi sisters, Fendi has continuously designed Led successfully through generations by the Fendi Family, the brand has established itself as a luxury brand with a focus on especially fur and leather pieces. In 1965 Karl Lagerfeld joined the company and became the Creative Director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, the latter was launched in 1977.

For Prefall, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have found inspiration in ironwork and kimonos. The mix might have an odd ring to it, nevertheless, the two insightful designers have created an interesting and bold collection. The collection is intriguing and exciting with plenty of references to artwork on iron gates and vintage men’s kimonos, some more literal than others.

The color palette is far from subtle although at first glance it might seem somewhat subdued. The bold prints and severe tailoring transfers really well at a second glance and it makes quite the impact. As always with Fendi, the tailoring and finishing are absolutely exquisite and impeccable. The contrast between the masculine, sharp silhouettes and the ornamentation and frills made it a very Fendi-esque collection.

Many of the suits and coats were elongated creating an interesting silhouette and featured quirky embellishments such as oddly shaped lapels and oversized pockets. Coats were often styled with aetherial pleaded skirts or very feminine pieces.

From suits and fur coats to dresses and skirts, the Fendi Prefall 2019 collection offered it all with several standout pieces such as the dress with cut-out sleeves in an earthy brown tone and the silk printed dress with kimono sleeves just to mention a few.

Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have yet again created a beautiful and very fashion forward collection that will appeal not only to their loyal followers but to women around the world. It is exciting and nothing short of what is expected from the prestigious Italian fashion house.

Tory Burch and the Redux in Americana

by Soledad Christina Rodrigues

Tory Burch is the perfect example of American exuberance. She resort collection encapsulates that aspect of her identity along with the imagery of her Philadelphia childhood in one singular narrative. From printed birds to tweed printed suits, the obvious attachment to the 70s make this resort collection nostalgic with a hint of Americana. It is a celebration of Tory’s uncanny ability to remain in the moment while passing on that same feeling to her admirers.

Prabal Gurung, the Stalwart of New York Fashion

by Lotus Ladegaard

Prabal Gurung entered the world of fashion through Parsons School of Design and an internship with Donna Karan. Following Parsons, the Nepalese American designer joined Cynthia Rowley’s design team before being appointed Design Director for Bill Blass. In February 2009, he successfully launched his own collection during New York Fashion Week and in the autumn of 2010, he staged his first runway show at Bryant Park. He has quickly gained a wide celebrity following among stars as well as some of the most influential people in the business. Oprah Winfrey, Michelle Obama among many others have worn Prabal Gurung on the red carpet  

Prabal Gurung’s Prefall 2018 collection is delightful; it is fresh, feminine and romantic. The colour palette offers a bit of everything from pastels to brighter and more intense mustard yellow as well as several floral prints and just a few but very thoughtful embellishments. Prabal Gurung really knows how to appeal to the feminine aspect of a woman with silhouettes that are flattering, easy to wear.

The mustard yellow gown with asymmetrical ruched bodies and long high slit along with the floral tea-length dress stood out. The use of the two floral prints is done thoughtfully and gives the dress tons of editorial appeal. The little white dress with fur trimmings and black striped skirt is delightful and fresh and again, the fabric choice is just right for the silhouette and design. The tartan like draped dress with trousers is a look that will appeal to women of all shapes and sizes and it looks easy and effortless. The blue dress with visible and broad princess seams and chiffon pleads in tea length is fresh and feels contemporary yet elegant and classic.  The ruffled dresses will undoubtedly appeal to a wide range of fashionistas in need of a dress that is elegant and romantic yet stands out in a crowd. The skirts and tops are easily paired with an existing wardrobe which all makes for a very intriguing collection.
 

Badgley Mischka and the Flex in Flexibility

by Olivia Moreau

Badgley Mischka named their dress after their Hollywood clientele which includes Beyoncé and Blake Lively. The throngs of B named dresses had an A-list feel to it very few designers have been able to court. The dresses were built with power mesh fabrics which replaced boning, and stretch-paneled sheer corsetry provided unprecedented flexibility for such high-end wedding gowns. Flexibility and intricate weaving make this collection one of the most sought-after work during this Fall season. 

Edeline Lee's Secret Garden

by Lydia Schaff

Edeline Lee ventured inward to find her zen wrapped in traditionalism of the east. Chaos and Clarity is the foundational structure of her new collection. It is hard to ignore the monastic tone of her collection as she imbued her aesthetics with solid palettes and dark floral jacquards which were a nod to the Garden of Eden. While employing technique draping and tassel trimmings that were reminiscent of Ayurvedic robes, she re-conceptualized the collection as a form of protection against the myriad upheaval of the outside world. It is a collection deeply rooted in the sophistication of a designer who embraces her introvert-ness as a form of armor. 

Brunello Cucinelli and an Ode to Italian Consistency

by Lydia Manna

Brunello Cucinelli’s love for his Italian countryside roots is re foundation for a lot of his collections and his fall collection does not veer away from that. And that is a good thing. His work for the last four decades have been of utmost excellence and formidable quality. He has spent hours and hours perfecting what you would call the BC look. While that look may not be distinguishable to the average eye, anyone who follows fashion and understands the need to keep to moving forward, loves Brunello’s work. From a little deconstruction to a bit of a stiff silhouette BC’s work can toe to toe with anyone working in the industry at this point.

Fendi's Flow of Functionality

By James Heaton

Clare Waight Keller’s Fendi is a big tent brand. It wants to capture the most basic elements of our lives while providing a sense of luxury and whimsy. And by and large, it succeeds with a certain kind of ease which you have come to expect from CWK. The incorporation of functionality as a brand ethos have benefitted Fendi greatly and there is little doubt that CWK have instilled that belief to be proliferated through both womenswear and menswear lines. While the menswear line is a bit static due to its overwhelming attachment to the Tisci’s reign and to an extent tired Parisian aesthetics of tailored-loose contrasts, the womenswear line brimming with sophistication and clarity of ideas. The progression of CWK as a heavyweight of fashion is evident both in form and function in this collection. While that is easy to state for a brand like Fendi, it is hard to find one’s own voice when you are in charge of a big fashion house. CWK does this with ease. And that ease translates into Fendi’s resurgence as one of the strongest performer artistically and commercially.

Red Valentino and the Joy of Lightness

by Olivia Moreau

Pierpaolo Piccioli saunters through Red Valentino as a designer who is completely comfortable with who he is. While the artistic struggle to remain consistent and relevant still remains (as it should) Red Valentino takes on the role of a sheltered existence from the harshness of reality. At a time when feminism is truly under siege from old white men, Red Valentino provides an ecosystem of aesthetics built solely on the shoulders of romanticism. The quality of work and the presence of multicolored, soft fabrics layered with even softer tones make this collection feel like cotton candy…sweet, nostalgic and may be a bit too ethereal. But in a world where celebrities throw “Handmaiden Parties” and abortion rights are being trampled, this sort of softer aesthetics provides a brief sense of joy and a brief sense of serenity. And that remains the primary value of fashion.

Bally and the Silhouettes of Consistency

by Veronica Duffour

With the introduction of vintage Everest motif sweaters to the cowled colored shearlings, Bally finds its inspiration from the Alpine Peaks to the vast Swiss mountain ranges and produces a collection steeped in retro charm. Bally remains a brand that is polished and always well groomed, but never really going outside it’s comfort zones and while that may seem too static for some brands, Bally’s confidence in the aesthetics it propagates suggests a brand that likes to hold the line. And within that line is excellent stitching, carefully constructed narrative and a certain sense of posh comfort. Bally is what Bally has always been and for that reason Bally’s consistency is so admired.

Henrik Vibskov's Bath Rituals

by Lotus Ladegaard

It was all fashion, drama, theatre and show boiled into one at the Henrik Vibskov AW20 show entitled Please Remove Before Washing.

Henrik Vibskov is the most recognizable name in Danish fashion. He is easily one of the most celebrated and successful Danish Designers of the last decade. Every fashion editor and fashionista attended the much-anticipated show.

Models walked a catwalk decorated with models in bathtubs which made for a very Vibskov show. Ten looks in, a female voice announced it was an emergency and everyone had to leave the premise. Many, thinking it was part of the show, stayed on until the Vibskov team finally made everyone leave. Following a short break outside, he was luckily able to continue his show. It was everything we have come to expect from the Danish designer and more. His AW20 collection was bold and intriguing and certainly a crowd favourite. The AW20 collection offered a little of everything and featured a busy colour palette. As always, he presented a ton of showstoppers that are bound to excite fashion editors around the globe.

Looks like the yellow raincoat layered on top of an olive-green trench coat and curry yellow pants along with a Samurai inspired kimono in print certainly stood out as a fabulous showstopper. The long printed dress with a wrap detail around the waist layered upon trousers in the same print, as well as the oversized bomber jacket in orange styled with a printed dress, printed stockings and a yellow sweater around the waist, were other standouts. Henrik Vibskov delivered a creative and solid AW20 collection that despite the drama made an impact and undoubtedly will be remembered as the most consequential shows of the CPHFW.

Americana by Adam Lippes

By Lotus Ladegaard

Adam Lippes began his career at Polo Ralph Lauren, and soon found himself at the cusp of greatness as he joined Oscar de la Renta, and became the youngest Creative Director of any Fashion house around. In 2014, he founded his eponymous brand with a play on American sportswear with unassuming elegance and understated designs. His designs are known for its ease and details.

For AW19, Adam Lippes presented an interesting collection that will excite his followers and undoubtedly be noticed by fashion editors. It is understated, detailed and feels fresh and easy. The silhouettes featured easy-to-wear as well as more fitted pieces. The color palette offered a little bit of everything from basic black and white tones to pastels tones and bold yellow and red along with a few busy burgundy red prints.

Several looks stood out while the collection also had a few less flattering looks. Among the stand-out pieces were a white high collar blouse styled with a fitted pair of black trousers which oozed of a distinct sense of style . Also, the burgundy red printed two-piece set with a dark beige cape stood out and made a strong impression.

Pieces like the yellow ruffled chiffon dress and the yellow ruffled blouse styled with a pair of dark army green shorts along with a pastel-colored ruffled chiffon blouse styled with tartan printed skirt were less flattering to a woman’s body, and thus not the most successful ones.

But Adam Lippes know how to design and tweak American sportswear into high fashion such as the lime green easy-to-wear dress and the burgundy red dress with multi-colored hemline styled with a coat in the same print along with the long red silk dress.

It is easy to spot why Adam Lippes has made a name for himself with his eye for details and play on American Sportswear. And this collection further establishes his own sense of aesthetics as a formidable commentary on Americana.

The One and Only Moncler 1 with Pierpaolo Piccioli

By Eva Lighthouse

Moncler’s Genius project is ambitious. Producing 11 collectionsside by side requires a level of coordination only Moncler seem to pull off seamlessly. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Moncler 1 was most definitely the one that stood out in a collection of outstanding clothes. Valentino’s creative director took on the collaboration to a new level by approaching Liya Kebede to provide the patterns and aesthetic of her sustainable and socially responsible Ethiopian label lemlem. And what comes out is a mind-blowing collection of Street-smart couture that is art and commerce at the same time. The intricacy and the range of this collection is most definitely the best collection we have seen so far and it will be hard to top.

Giambattista Valli's Poised Poetry

Giambattista Valli’s primary consumer base is well heeled women of a certain ilk. By that I mean women who like transitional wear from work to play to work. So his resort collections are always a happy medium between those through elemental aspect of the human experience. Add talent and a sense of whimsy to the process and you have a collection brimming with poise, clarity and above all pleasure. Visually soothing, intellectually intriguing and subtly comfortable in its realm of glam and functionality, GV’s work is as substantive as ever in this resort collection.

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection. 

Carolina Herrera and the Levity of Color

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera suffered some personal tragedies this year and her ancestral homeland is in the midst of an economic crisis exasperated by a communist dictatorship. So it would be perfectly fine if her pre-fall collection came out in dark, broody colors. But that is not who she is and her collection is full of joy and vigor. She embraces happiness through silhouettes and the mix of foundational colors with strong embroidery. From rainbow stitches to floral embroidery that find inspiration from Flemish floral art, her collection lights up an otherwise gloomy year for a lot in the fashion industry. The materials carefully crafted with chiffon and georgette made the collection look more traditional yet youthful to the core. If happiness could wear a dress, it would surely walk into Carolina's atelier.  

For a Proper New York Fall Feel dial 6397

by Olivia Moreau

Stella Ishii and her team are well known within the New York scene for their Tomboy-ish wear. The obvious homage to scandi-fashion has always been evident in her work. This season she pushes that boundary to incorporate a bit more global, less regional aesthetics by bringing in sharply constructed clothing and even clearer lines. The menswear inspired aesthetics is still the foundation of her work, but incorporation of delicate fabrics from pink silk to soft wool opens up a new and exciting territory for Stella's future endeavors. 

Luisa Beccaria and the Sirens of Femininity

by Lucia Chianese

Luisa Beccaria is the epitome of ethereal femininity. The pre-fall/resort collection does not veer away from the levity of such lightness. It fully embraces it. From powder pink to whimsical lavender the clothes were steeped in the romantic notion of femininity. While the fashion world is moving toward more functional clothing with athleisure slowly taking up a lot of the prospective markets, the appeal of Luisa's clothes is undeniable. Sure there was some pretense of functionality but the DNA of the brand is deeply rooted in evocative, bohemian femininity, something that stands out and touches you gently, yet never imposes on the aesthetics. 

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