The Edge of Noir with Kei Ninomiya

by Lotus Ladegaard

Inspired by his mentor, Rei Kawabuko, Kei Ninomiya continues to develop his own aesthetics by experimenting with textiles, pattern-cuts, and assembly techniques. The Japanese designer’s signature construction method is linking various laser-cut pieces together. His style is elegant avant-garde, and his collections certainly leave an impact.

The Fall 2021 collection entitled Metal Couture featured stainless-steel spikes, a play on silhouettes as well as some of his signature quirky avant-garde looks.

The spiked pieces felt eery and fabulously dark such as the first look with a sheer skirt with clusters of metal pearls and stainless-steel spikes on the bodice and shoulders or the balloon-shaped dress in black organza with the same pattern of pearl clusters.

The collection also featured some intriguing looks such as the pin-striped, purple, and black layered dress with ruffles as well as the pant-like skirt with oversize ruffled neckline shirt which was also featured on the sleeves.

As the showstopper, Kei Ninomiya had chosen a silver organza dress which seemed to be constructed to resemble the stainless-steel spikes on the first look. The dress was breath-taking, interesting, and very Kei Ninomiya.

With so many stand-out pieces, the collection will not be forgotten any time soon. While wearability might play a factor in its commercial success, editorially it will undoubtedly stand out.