PFW SS18 : Maticevski's Australian Dynasty

by Lisa Lerner 

Toni Maticevski hails from Australia and Australian women love him. Whether or not others outside the continent feels the same way is still up for debate. But his SS18 collection provided ample evidence of his strong following in Australia and why that is the case. From classic silhouettes to avant-garde deconstruction Toni's work evolved from what used to be at time overcomplication into a set of grand visuals. 

NYFW SS18 : Tome and Deconstruction of Color

by Cara Livingstone

Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin never bough into the celebrity driven notion of aesthetics. For SS18, the designers chose to stage an intimate dance performance choreographed by one of their longtime muses, Pam Tanowitz who routinely deconstructs the classical ballet to provide a constructivist notion of dance. Almost an a homage to deconstruction of staple ideas, Ryan and Martin disassembled the colors of the rainbow and constructed into something that is equally appealing. 

NYFW SS18 : The IT Girls of Zoë Jordan

by Samantha Mittten 

Zoë Jordan is the best-kept secret of the IT girls of Hollywood. The list of celebs who sport ZJ's clothing is long and distinguished. But that is not a product of just pushing marketable products through placement but an indication of ZJ's trend appeal. ZJ has the allure of exclusive yet the silhouette of inclusive. This wonderful equipoise translates into clothing that appeals visually and remains functional. This SS18 collection is no different, the color arrangements are wonderfully well thought out, the stripes are delicious and California surfer girl meets east coast banker vibe is impossible to ignore. 

NYFW SS18 : Co and the Quiet Revolution of the 40s

by Linda Bezos

Los Angeles transplant Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern do not adhere to the modern notions of california fashion that is seeped in casual streetwear. Instead, they find their inspiration in the heady glamorous days of the 30s-40s. Co's SS18 collection filled with the joy of movement and elegance perfectly harmonized with the ballet themes of the photographs. What stands out from this wonderfully elegant collection is the way Co approaches sophistication. Instead of throwing everything but the kitchen sink, Co's approach is a more subtle and slow acting dose of beauty. And if you are looking for a sense of femenine mystique with an added layer of class and sophistication, this is the collection for you. 

NYFW SS18 : The Re-Birth of Mara Hoffman

by Cara Livingstone

Mara Hoffman is a risk taker. She dismantled her company a year ago to reinvent it from the group up, from the thread to the supply chain to marketing. This SS18 collection stems from that reinvention and the ensuing clarity of Mara's philosophy. The clothes are made through sustainable materials, the designs are equally appealing from red to sky blue, from deconstructed jackets to tailored silhouettes, all the right moves are part of this new narrative Mara has introduced and we love it. 

NYFW SS18 : For the Love of Tom Ford

by Cara Livingstone 

Tom Ford has been the savior of many a brand. His stint at Gucci revived a floundering icon, his artistry lit up YSL when it seemed most unlikely. So when he went on to start his own brand no one batted an eye. Well, no one should have as the bloody-minded artistry Tom produces is nothing short of extraordinary. And that bloody-mindedness, that sense of the right aesthetics at the right millisecond were on display at the Park Avenue Armory. He co-opted elements from his much-loved men's collection and installed the same spine into this SS18 collection for women. If you ignore the commerce savvy, celebrity adored aspect of Tom Ford as a brand you are left with just pure artistry from the sheer dresses and elegant and tight silhouettes. It is no surprise that everyone loves Tom Ford, because who does not like Art that sells in while holding on to it's soul.  

NYFW SS18 : It's 5 o'clock Somewhere with Haney

by Olivia Moreau 

Mary Alice Haney has always been good at figuring out what she does well and stick to that. This SS18 collection is no different in that sense. Haney produces a set of clothes perfect for the evening and utterly imperfect for anything before that (unless you are on vacation in Mykonos and haven't been back to the hotel since last night). Such clarity of purpose and being able to stick to a singular narrative that fits a specific time frame in a woman's life is what makes this collection not only worth of praise but also worthy of investment. Beautiful prints, shimmering blouses, and dresses to die for are the staple of this collection and we are happy to buy into Haney specially after 5pm. 

MFW SS18 : Moschino and the Escapism of Levity

by Olivia Moreau

Moschino took a stand last season. Trump-era politics, waste, and outright apathy were the targets of that visually enticing show. This SS18 was Moschino's remedy to those blues, a form of escapism, visually stunning, soaked in the petals of flowers and propped up with the rebellion of biker ballerinas. It was a show for the conscious consumer with the understanding we all need some escapism in the form of levity and positiviy. 

LFW SS18 : Isa Arfen's Japanese Expedition

by Cara Livingstone

Isa Arfen's Serafina Sama found inspiration for this collection from her first visit to Japan. And it is full of intricate references to the Japanese aesthetics. This very zen collection is a product of a designer completely comfortable with her ability to produce post-cultural trends. The clothes have elements of what Japan is known for...Kabuki theatre, Samurais, Pagoda and inner calm. Trimmed silk suits with magnolia patterns were the standout in this presentation and it is likely to bring in a lot of new admirers into Isa's pagoda. 

PFW SS18 : Johanna Ortiz and the United Colors of South America

by Olivia Moreau

Johanna Ortiz has a flair that corresponds more with South American colors and aesthetic than Parisian sensibilities.  So when she reimagined Polynesian beauties of French impressionist Paul Gaugin that flair for the dramatic did not escape her collection but enhanced it. Cropped Tops and evening wear the staple of her collection but what really stood out are not just the silhouettes but the sooting tonality of the clothes, how they moved, how they seamlessly stood out during the fashion week that has produced some excellent collections. 

LFW SS18 : Dilara Findikoglu and The End of Days

by Cara Livingstone

Turkish born designer Dilara Findikoglu has always been interested in the vision of apocalypse and her previous collections weaved seediness of the underbelly of culture with the aesthetics of an ever-evolving avant-garde movement. This collection does not veer off into unchartered territory but doubles down on the apocalyptic visions of Dilara. Whereas most designers try to sooth the wound of time with visually interesting colors, Dilara goes outright for the jugular. Not only does she not shy away from using color as a form of rebellion against a world burning, but also she uses her considerable talent to create a narrative deeply entrenched in goth meets nihilism. Dilara's work is what underground London is and with each passing cycle, she embraces and pushes that aesthetics in new heady heights of wonderful paranoia, soaked in color and stiched in expert silhouettes. 

LFW SS18 : Ryan Lo's Dark Fantasy

By Cara Livingstone

Ryan Lo has always been good at wrapping up his work in technicolor maximalism. So this collection would be a departure from that aesthetics. But the overwhelming sense of intricacy is complemented through the means of black and white and some muted pink colors. This gives the collection verve and clarity. There is no question about Ryan's ability to construct form but this collection further enhances his reputation as a master at his craft as he does to black and white what he has done to red and yellow. It is a collection that would need a bit of time to settle into the minds of the consumer and editors but when it does the genius would come through in spades. 

PFW SS18 : Jacquemus and the Hallowed Names of Nostalgia

by Linda Bezos

Simon Porte's Jacquemus is the darling of Paris. The self-taught designer has a ton of admirers from every facet of Parisian society and looking at his SS18 collection you would know why, instantly. 

Simon's work is seemingly simple...the holy grail of fashion. From basic silhouettes to the plunging necklines, thigh-split skirts, exposed back are all part of a collective nostalgia Simon translates into wearable art. The brand itself is an homage to his late mother of the same name and in many ways that nostalgia, attachment translates into delicate, moving ethereal elements on each of his looks. Paris loves Jacquermus and unlike many other loves, this one is fully deserved. 

NYFW SS18 : Christopher Esber and the Fury of Youth

by Lotus Ladegaard

Christopher Esber debuted onto New York Fashion Week in February with his FW17 collection of street couture with detailed and precise tailoring. His eye for tailored relaxed cuts, raw accents and woven and embellished textiles excited the fashion world and much was expected of the young Austrian designer, who launched his eponymous brand in 2010. With a background in tailoring, Christopher Esber creates intriguing and interesting silhouettes with menswear techniques, which can be found in every single piece across his collections. He has become known for his precision tailoring and a purity of expression that allows him to create clothes that whisper rather than shouts.

Christopher Esber’s SS 2018 collection is every bit as fresh and intriguing as his debut FW17 collection. The colour palette was classic and simple with a delicate pink in addition to black and white, while the silhouettes were fresh, intricate and interesting. From tailored pieces with and edge to sleek exquisite dresses, the collection offered it all. Like the long black dress with scarf effect paired with an oversized sports jacket was beautiful and interesting enough not to become just another black dress. The half-jacket in a greyish wool paired with white bottom and white bra had tons of editorial appeal and is bound to excite. The white top with scarf effect paired with a long white wrap skirt was another favourite.

Other pieces like the pink and white dress white black painted stripes felt fresh and youthful and has a lot of commercial appeal. The same goes for the black wrap dress with oversized buttons. The little pink draped dress is another piece that is bound to excite and win over new territory for Christopher Esber.

Christopher Esber delivered an exciting SS18 collection that will excite both his existing following and new fans. The Australian designer has ruled the Australian fashion world for some years now, and if this year’s collections are a sign of what is to come, it is only a matter of time before Christopher Esber conquers New York too.

LFW SS18 : Duro Olowu and the Devils of Details

by Linda Bezos

Duro Olowu's SS18 collection finds inspiration in surrealist muse Lee Miller but it truly creates a more impressionist visual of feminity that goes beyond any surreal notion of such. Olowu's progression as an artist and designer is incremental but yet substantive as he painstakingly adds layers and layers of intricacy into his already well-substantiated template. The prints, the stripes, and the overwhelming colors add a sense of playfulness to silhouettes that are rigid and strong creating a sense of dichotomy both intriguing and visually appealing. 

PFW SS18 : A Memento of Not Fitting In with Kenzo

by Olivia Moreau

The traditional Runway is dying and Kenzo is at the forefront of hammering the nails in that coffin one show at a time. Kenzo's La Memento collection was presented by a traditional Japanese theatre group as  Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, delved deeper into the aesthetics of Japanese fashion and European reinvention. The second Memento collection is an homage to Kenzo Takada's incorporation of denim into couture 40 years ago and by any measure, the collection paid a worthy tribute to that radical step which changed how we view fashion. Palm frond–print maillots, bamboo bikinis, Hawaiian shirts were all part of a grand narrative of Kenzo's vision, and it's admirable inability to just fit in. 

NYFW SS18 : The Casual Romance of the Row

by Olivia Moreau

The Row has always had the aesthetics of lightness and elegance attached to it. For this collection, while other designers were going for templates to fit the upheaval of our time The Row's Asley and Mary-Kate Olson stuck to what they know best. With the feel of comfortable luxury, the silhouettes constructed in this collection bore the signature basic solids with a bit of whimsy. By any measure, this collection has a starkly familiar light look but it is also steeped in the movement of romanticism.  From ultra-feminine pantsuits to belted duster in a crinkled, laminated gray material were all part of a narrative of escapism. And we need that at this point. 

LFW SS18 : Marta Jakubowsky and Everyday Femininity

by Sierra Kaplan

Marta Jakubowsky has her debut runway show today at the LFW. The collection was an exploration of feminity through the prism of perfection and imperfection. From nearly deconstructed dresses to see through evening wear, Marta's collection started off with a bang and became one of the most substantive shows of LFW so far. Her usage of silhouettes as vehicle of non-traditional aesthetics is not only unconventional but also rather brilliant. The light colored dressed complemented the strong color pallets of deconstruction and reconsttruction that came in the form of well tailors skirts and tops. If you are a modern woman with modern needs and a sense of classic, this is the collection for you. 

MFW SS18 : The Undying Legacy of Versace

by Linda Bezos

Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies are all Gianni Versace's principal contribution to the iconic brand. His genius was overshadowed by his brutal murder and in the 20th anniversary of his death, his sister Donatella merged her sense of ecstatic aesthetic with Gianni's iconic collections. And the end result is not only an homage but also marching call to move forward with history firmly intact, legacy fully realized and no end in sight. Ultimately this was a show of what Versace has done to fashion and what it is capable of doing. The clothes speak for themselves and are etched into our memories. This was sort of like a wedding and a funeral. Both in the minds of the iconic designer would have been a joyous celebration.