Tessa's LA Charm

In her fourth season, Los Angeles designer Tessa Matthias is bridging the gap between athleisure and trend specific luxury wear.  Tessa's Fall collection is full of promise and clarity of designer who is learning and evolving much faster than most designer her age. From machine washable cashmere to scuba-inspired track pants Tessa find a niche' within a niche' market while remaining every so appealing to the greater aesthetic of functional fashion. 

Alberta Ferretti and the Siren Song of Romanticism

by Olivia Moreau

Hyper-femininity is what drives Alberta Ferretti. She does not hold back when it comes to finding the poetry and romanticism in her work. Her couture (limited edition collection) has all the makings of a designer clear in her vision and expert in her execution. Her romanticism is not frivolous, it is driven by a certain charming efficiency. From more structured attire to more loose ethereal silhouettes, her work touch to holy grails of fashion... minimalism, and expansiveness. 


Edeline Lee's Secret Garden

by Lydia Schaff

Edeline Lee ventured inward to find her zen wrapped in traditionalism of the east. Chaos and Clarity is the foundational structure of her new collection. It is hard to ignore the monastic tone of her collection as she imbued her aesthetics with solid palettes and dark floral jacquards which were a nod to the Garden of Eden. While employing technique draping and tassel trimmings that were reminiscent of Ayurvedic robes, she re-conceptualized the collection as a form of protection against the myriad upheaval of the outside world. It is a collection deeply rooted in the sophistication of a designer who embraces her introvert-ness as a form of armor. 

Holly Fulton's Love Letters to Europe

by Linda Bezos

Holly Fulton took a hiatus for almost a year and this is her second collection of her second coming. And by the looks of it, it is a second coming worth celebrating. Overture of Brexit dictated the foundational aesthetics of Art Deco graphics, the shape of the Empire State Building, large Swarovski crystals and Mongolian repurposed fur. The 'long-distance love affair' with Europe proper is peaking through her magnificent take on this calamity of isolationism that has gripped at least half of the British isles. Ultimately her collection is far more romantic than the nitty-gritty details of her inspiration Brexit which by any measure is an ongoing headache. But for sake of jest, a collection like this helps to deal with the magnificently daft decision that is Brexit. 

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Après Moi, Le Deluge with Chanel

by Linda Bezos

Chanel can be nauseatingly good at selling clothes. It has to do with its branding and poise, creativity and large market base. So this years collection is no different in that regard. From 70s ruffles laden exploration to the classic tweedy Chanel experience this is a collection is as much of a retrospective as it is a move forward for Karl. The romanticism is evident, the global appeal is always building, and the tiring, towering line of models with excellent clothes is all too familiar. After Karl (we must ask) is the deluge?  

The Irrefutable Consistency of Haney

by Samantha Mitten

Mary Alice Haney does not suffer from variability in vision. From day one her label has been a celebration of the female form and the visual joy it brings. Holding on to that vision Haney's AW18 collection brings heavy hitters with ease and poise. From rhinestone studded separates to the high-slit gowns, the delectable minidresses provide wardrobe for a woman who is comfortable with who she is. 

Zuhair Murad and the Red Dawn

by Olivia Moreau

Zuhair Murad sits firmly on top of the pile when it comes to the wedding couture market. But his non-wedding clothes has not truly made a mark up until this collection. That in itself is a surprise as Murad's catalog as impressive as almost any living greats at this point. This collection steeped in color and prints provided a fresher, younger and more untamed look to Murad's classic cuts and feminine silhouettes.  The red, the red , the red is almost as iconic looking as Valentino and the frocks and long dresses where his talent truly shines. It is a collection worth a double take. 

From Dundas With Love?

by Linda Bezos

Russian influence is everywhere at this point. From Syria to the voting booths of America. But fashion has been one area where that influence exists in a limited dosage for better or for worse. Apart from few native Russian designers, russian aesthetic doesn't have a leg to stand on in the big four. Insert Peter Dundas who with the help of Natasha Poly delved into the Russian aesthetics with charmingly superficial way. Peter's work needs no introduction, his previous three collections were/are as solid as they come. So to expect anything different in terms of this would be silly. But the introduction of this orientalist understanding of Russian aesthetics has a wonderfully intriguing element that has rarely been explored when it comes to Russian fashion. The western European sense of style and proportions meets the intricacies of Russian whimsy and provocativeness. To call this collection anything less than getting your feet wet with an ethereal understanding of russian fashion would be unfair, to call this collection brilliant for the same reason would be perfectly accurate.    

Vini, Vidi, Vici Versus Versace!

by Olivia Moreau

Versus Versace is the prelude to Donatella's ongoing consolidation of the Versace empire....and what an empire it is. Soaked in Italian whimsy and in your face branding, Versus is the younger sibling to a more nuanced Versace and with every season it becomes leaner, meaner and cooler. But behind the coolness, this is a celebration of Gianni's original designs with his signature on it (literally in some cases). Ultimately Versus is making it easier for Donatella to push her own vision into a fabled brand while maintaining a steady homage to a man who truly embodied what Italian fashion is.  

Calvin Klien and the American Divide

by Olivia Moreau

A hallucinatory farm scene in the New York stock exchange seems like an appropriate way of presenting Calvin Klien/Raf Simons new iteration on the American classic. The aesthetic was purely directed toward the Americana meets Justin Timberlake crowd but it was done in a way that even the most notorious of doubters can get into it. The transitional nature of the clothes from stripped fireman jackets to chiffon gowns were all part of the narrative of American division, and the inevitable divide that separates the prosperous coasts from the struggling underbelly of the midwest. As if you push that point home the visuals (paper popcorn bags) exuded a tense balance between a country divided and a country trying to move forward. It was probably the best show during an underwhelming fashion week. 

Victoria by Victoria Beckham on Bridging Gaps

Victoria Beckham is not here to reinvent the wheels but she does deconstruct a lot of our everyday attire with ease and poise of an artist. From downtown cool to avant-garde chic' her sister label is directed towards the more experimental crowd with an obvious homage to the confident women who wear her primary label.  The foundational aesthetics of the whole collection is based on the notion destructing masculinity and femininity and bridging that gap with less obvious silhouettes. And Victoria does it with ease. 


Rebeca de Ravenel's Midwinter's Dream

by Lotus Ladegaard

Rebecca de Ravenel might not be a household name, but her earrings have graced a many ears from London to Tokyo to New York since she launched the Les Bonbons silk chord ball-drop Bijoux in 2015. The multi-faceted designer, however, has many more talents and in September of last year, she launched her first ready-to-wear collection filled with caftans, kimonos, and dresses, all created and designed to compliment her earrings rather than the other way around. Her versatile style is easy-to-wear enough for the beach yet sophisticated enough for an evening out. The designs reflect Rebecca de Ravenel’s feel for today’s women and what they want.

For Fall 2018, Rebecca de Ravenel presented a feminine and sophisticated collection at New York Fashion Week. The colour palette matches and compliments her bijoux and offers reds, blues, neutrals and several prints. From outerwear and dresses to separates, the collection offers it all and then some. From flowy and easy-to-wear pieces to sleek and fitted pieces, Rebecca de Ravenel does it very well. Styled with care, each look compliments her bijoux and thus make for several standout looks.

Versatility is at the heart of the namesake brand and it is carried through in her Fall 2018 collection. The looks are easily dressed up and down with a few other garments or the addition of her very sophisticated and contemporary bijoux.

Rebecca de Ravenel’s Fall 2018 collection is what most women want; stylish, sophisticated yet comfortable and easy.

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena reach. 

For a Proper New York Fall Feel dial 6397

by Olivia Moreau

Stella Ishii and her team are well known within the New York scene for their Tomboy-ish wear. The obvious homage to scandi-fashion has always been evident in her work. This season she pushes that boundary to incorporate a bit more global, less regional aesthetics by bringing in sharply constructed clothing and even clearer lines. The menswear inspired aesthetics is still the foundation of her work, but incorporation of delicate fabrics from pink silk to soft wool opens up a new and exciting territory for Stella's future endeavors. 

Nina Ricci and the Dreamscapes of Drama

by Sofia Boyce 

Guillaume Henry of Nina Ricci took a page (no pun intended) out of literature and 18th-century theater to find inspiration for Ricci's new collection. The stock characters in these plays with their mute yet elaborate existence are all too present in this rather whimsical collection.   If commedia dell’arte is the DNA then surely the oversized flexibility of the clothes are the legs that move this collection. While it is hard to imagine how successful this would be commercially, the whimsy and the levity of this collection are worth gushing over. The dramatic shapes overwhelm the senses in some situation but ultimately comes out as fun and functional with a hint of theater. It is a collection not for the faint hearted, neither it is a collection for the most audacious, but in between that those of us enjoy levity in our clothes and history on our shoes, this is a collection worth getting into.    

Rodebjar and the Long Lost Italian Summer

by Olivia Moreau

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is either bored of the Swedish functionality and sleek lines or is a big fan of the Amalfi coast. Whatever it is, it works for her as she constructed a set of clothes that are ethereal and light, loose and delicate in their silhouettes conjuring up nothing Swedish apart from the name. Nautical White to shades of prints in colored maze gives the collection the necessary 'gone fishing' vibe and provides a visual getaway for not only in Sweden suffering from the scandi-weather, but also in new york which is suffering from the cold sweet tooth of winter. This is escapism at it's most loose and finest.   

Giving into Givenchy

By Linda Bezos

Givenchy knows what it is doing. This pre-fall collection is all about lines and details. From printed suits to chic' coats the entire collection is set up to convey the confidence of a brand that is at it's creative best. Multi-colored skirts and brooding sunglasses are complemented by delicate long coats whimsical belts. It is a collection meant for people who already know what they like and have no problem acquiring them. 

Carolina Herrera and the Levity of Color

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera suffered some personal tragedies this year and her ancestral homeland is in the midst of an economic crisis exasperated by a communist dictatorship. So it would be perfectly fine if her pre-fall collection came out in dark, broody colors. But that is not who she is and her collection is full of joy and vigor. She embraces happiness through silhouettes and the mix of foundational colors with strong embroidery. From rainbow stitches to floral embroidery that find inspiration from Flemish floral art, her collection lights up an otherwise gloomy year for a lot in the fashion industry. The materials carefully crafted with chiffon and georgette made the collection look more traditional yet youthful to the core. If happiness could wear a dress, it would surely walk into Carolina's atelier.  

Built on Eileen Gray with Max Mara

Cara Livingstone

Ian Griffiths of Max Mara is not unfamiliar with the history of feminism. His latest collection finds inspiration in the life of  Eileen Gray, a female architect of the early 20th century, who broke the glass ceiling and blazed a trail through her own for a generation of female architects. Her subtle yet exquisite style is the perfect prototype for Max Mara and its philosophy. The marinière stripe knits provides the foundation for this collection and the dignified style is sure to be popular with woman of a certain class and quality.