Paco Rabanne and Fiction of Functionality

by Olivia Moreau 

It's blistering in Paris. The heat is further exasperated by the visual of pre-fall clothing from many formidable names in fashion, but not Paco Rabanne. Julien Dossena's ability to conjure up small yet intrinsic change to details makes this connection a sight for sore eyes and weary heat stricken body. So much so that the see-now-buy-now model seems fully workable even in this Parisian heat. Fluid knit mesh tops, arching tanks, and low-slung skirts are all part of this subtle narrative of movement and functionality while remaining true to it's core philosophy. Paco Rabanne looks, feels formidable and sporty, functional and forward thinking and we could not ask for a better pre-fall/resort set. 

Fendi and it's Faustian Bargain

by Olivia Moreau

Fendi loves the decadent.  Fendi is decadent. From Ribbon and Pearls to Macramé lace to fil coupé, silk jacquard, 3-D knit, Shibori-inlaid and intarsia mink, and laser-cut eyelet, Fendi unleashed a collection oozing with class and decadence. Decadence not to be mixed with the decadence of Donald Trump's golden toilet or something equally obnoxious and vapid but decadence that appeals and overwhelms our sense of aesthetics casually yet leaves a formative sense of longing. Fendi's collection is uniquely Fendi...free, liberating, expansive, elegant and above all, ahead of the curve. 

The Vendetta of Color with Bottega Veneta

by the Editorial Staff

Tomas Maier came into the Resort collection/ Pre-fall collection to bridge the gap between two major collections. And while some designers may find that process tedious and necessary and inevitable distraction, Bottega Veneta approaches this collection with the utmost clarity and professionalism. From the burgundy napa coat with analogue fastening on wide-billowed pockets to the printed butterflies clamoring for attention were both products of a designer who knows what he wants and knows how to get there. Not all resort/Pre-fall collections are meant to be substantive as they are still viewed as bridge clothes, something to hold you up til the real collection pops up, but Bottega Veneta has shown to be a master at holding you up with the same intensity and whimsy as if all collections are equal. 

Christopher Kane and the Dreams of Glasgow

by Lotus Ladegaard

Christopher Kane is all about the chic'. His signature design of innovation, rebellious femininity and sense of surprise has excited the world of fashion since 2006. He is a master at turning the ordinary into extraordinary, he knows how to embrace both the traditional with the contemporary, the timeless with the ephemeral and the sleek with the subversive. His unique take on exquisite technical textile and shapes has seduced many fashionistas around the world. Christopher Kane has found inspiration in Glaswegian architecture, furniture, and fabrics of Charles Rennie Macintosh and his wife Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh for his 2018 Resort collection. With permission to shoot his lookbook at the exclusive setting of the Mackintosh masterpiece; Hill House in Helensburgh, he has created an exquisite and exclusive narrative.

Christopher Kane’s 2018 Resort collection offers plenty of chic' and frilly knitwear pieces, tartan skirts, fuzzy jackets and beautiful evening gowns that all somehow fit the setting just perfectly. The little white lace biker jacket has the DNA of his previous collections. The delicate dress with white top and blush lace skirt moves the envelope forward. Its innovative and contemporary shape matched with old world lace is a classic Christopher Kane fusion. The Mackintosh influence is not only found in the setting, but the Scottish designer has incorporated Margaret Macdonald’s stylized snakehead drawing as an embroidery on several pieces. Christopher Kane never holds back in expressing his vision, sometimes that can be visually exhausting, but sometimes it is just right. 

 

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Carolina Herrera's Secret Garden

by Erika Heinlein

Carolina Herrera has been an ever-present fixture in the world of fashion for the last three decades. And judging by the looks of the pre-fall/resort collection that is unlikely to change. This collection is an homage to her ancestral Venezuelan gardens. The flowy, flowery mix and match revolution is perfectly encapsulated in this collection of breezy gowns and taffetas. The alluring stripes complemented by summer induced fall colors is a joy to look at and even more fun wearing. It is a collection that exudes a sense of freedom that her home country has not seen in a while, but as all good artists she has created a collection of a better time or a future that is worth looking forward to. 

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The Mastery of Silhouettes with Armani

by Lotus Ladegaard

Giorgia Armani has over the years become known for both his clean tailored lines and his 2018 Resort collection does not sway from that. Although it is brighter, a tad airier and definitely more contemporary than usual yet is remains very Armani.

The color palette was delightful with poppy red, pink and a delicate blue mixed with classical Armani shades like blacks and greys and a couple of prints. The silhouettes are easy and modern yet never sways from being Armani-esque. His play with textures and fabrics adds another dimension to the collection; mixing new fabrics with natural fibres, a paperlike texture for the silk and a smoothened organza were all parts that makes this collection relevant, modern, fresh and youthful.

Armani excels when it comes to suiting and he offers plenty of variations in his 2018 Resort collection. One of the showstoppers is the black textured suit with a gray crop top underneath. Armani has a way with prints and another favourite is the printed fitted cocktail dress with a high neckline. The graphic print is bold and loud yet will appeal to many women around the globe. The dresses range from long and flowy to fitted and sleek and many in between. The little pink layered dress with halter-neck is exquisite and playful, while the flower printed pleaded dress is sophisticated and youthful. All in all, this is a collection from a master of silhouettes and drapes. 

 

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Isabel Marant and the Tightrope of Athleisure

by the Editorial Staff

Pre-fall is a curious time for designer houses. It's neither here nor there. So pre-fall has become a far more experimental avenue to promote what is already in the pipeline for fall. Isabel Marant understands that very well and in many ways, her pre-fall collection is a collection that is seasonless. The clever, the chic' and above all the Parisian philosophy behind these clothes are what makes them so evocative and worthy of a double take. The skin tight pants to blazers to leggings make this collection a testament to Isabel's ability to find equipoise between leisure and athletic without going overboard into athleisure territory. 

Conquering Color with Diane Von Furstenberg

by Lotus Ladegaard

Scotsman Jonathan Saunders joined DVF almost a year ago and he has made quite the impact with fashion editors and fashionistas alike with his bias-cut floral prints, vibrant colours and youthful take on the brand’s aesthetics. Saunders excited with a Pre-fall and a SS17 collection that paid homage to the iconic brand known for its 70’ies wrap dresses fused with contemporary ease and style, his Resort 2018 collection will, no doubt, excite just as many and win a lot of admirers outside the usual circles of fashion forward people.

The DVF Resort 2018 collection is vibrant, colourful, bold and exciting. New silhouettes and cuts have been added while it still builds on the prior SS17 and Pre-fall collection. It is due in November and thus Saunders has experimented with a few holiday items with jewel-toned velvet stripe as well as a layered printed slip over fine-gauge knit. Jackets, coats and pants were also part of the collection in different cut and style to suit many women.

DVF is known for its summer dresses and Jonathan Saunders exceeds his previous collection with several dresses that will excite DVF fans and even attract new ones. The purple floral printed dress in ruched silk is going to be a crownd-favourite. Though the cut is not for all shapes, it is a sexy little dress that will work for many occasions. Another hot ticket item is the multi-coloured striped dress with cape, it is classic yet modern and never fails to exude DVF. The dresses, in general, have a youthful and modern feel to them which will win over many of the younger fashionistas.

Jonathan Saunders has successfully attracted new fans and followers with his unique eye and take on the brand’s aesthetics, yet managed to hold onto its loyal followers. And that in fashion circles is a job well done. 

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Oscar de la Renta and the Pursuit of Equipoise

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia has a tough job, while maintaining their own sense of aesthetics they had to incorporate the substantial history of Oscar de la Renta into their collection. And if the palettes of citrusy orange and palm greens and the tropical prints and jacquards are any indication of how they are doing then it is safe to say they are doing quite well. Maintaining the classic silhouettes of OdlR while adding splashes of their own genius was the consistent theme in this years collection. While they are still in their infancy in terms of being creative co-heads at OdlR, they are building a strong foundation that may very well push OdlR in the right direction. 

Orla Kiely and the Monarchy of Prints

by Samantha Mitten

Orla Kiely does everything. She started off as a hat designer, moved on to kitchenware, handbags, and clothes. She is often considered the queen of prints and having her face on a postage stamp in Ireland only adds to the aura of invincibility and class, Orla's work exudes. 

This pre-fall collection is a testament to Orla's strengths. While it is nowhere near as legendary as her kitchenware, her fashion work remains of high caliber with a hint of whimsy. The prints are there to gush over, the silhouettes are there to ponder, but ultimately what makes this collection worth buying into both literally and figuratively is Orla's ability to craft fashionable, functional wear out which is playful and ingenious at its core. Yet that playfulness is subtle in the form of long skirts and dresses that are foundationally old-school but bears the hyper-modern aesthetics of Orla's prints. 

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The Quiet Storm of the Protagonist

by Lotus Ladegaard

Georgia Lazarro's Protagonist is a protagonist when it comes to minimalism. While other brands have overused and confused the term, Protagonist always manages to deliver and while offering a bit of a New York twist to scandi-looking fashion.

It is subtleties that casually hides within the Protagonist collection. It is where the brand stands out and it is part of their DNA. It also means that silhouettes will evolve from season to season and can be worn in many ways. At first glance, many of them, however, might come off as masculine and unisex, but the more you look at them the more delicate and feminine they become.

Protagonist's 2018 Resort Collection stands out in that usual Protagonist way, it is interesting, minimalist, stylish and fashion forward. 

The 2018 Resort Collection offers the shirts and slip-dresses that have become synonymous with the brand. It also introduces new feminine and delightful pieces such as a cropped jacket and ruffled collars on the shirts. The collection is due to hit the stores in the autumn so Georgina Lazarro also included knitted sweaters and warmer looking coats and jackets. The color palette is surprisingly held in darker tones such as navy, burgundy, black and white, but also offered splashes of colour with a yellow sweater and pastel light blue pieces.

The collection, while not for every woman, will undoubtedly excite fans and followers, but Georgina Lazarro has added enough oompf and it factor to win over many more.

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