Carolina Herrera and the Levity of Color

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera suffered some personal tragedies this year and her ancestral homeland is in the midst of an economic crisis exasperated by a communist dictatorship. So it would be perfectly fine if her pre-fall collection came out in dark, broody colors. But that is not who she is and her collection is full of joy and vigor. She embraces happiness through silhouettes and the mix of foundational colors with strong embroidery. From rainbow stitches to floral embroidery that find inspiration from Flemish floral art, her collection lights up an otherwise gloomy year for a lot in the fashion industry. The materials carefully crafted with chiffon and georgette made the collection look more traditional yet youthful to the core. If happiness could wear a dress, it would surely walk into Carolina's atelier.  

Mary Katrantzou's Rothchild Excursion

by Olivia Moreau 

Mary Katrantzou is a visionary. So was the second Baron Rothchild who invested a substantial amount of his wealth into his interest in zoology, which led to the creation of te national history museum in London. Mary Katranzou was invited by the current heir to the Rothchild name to incorporate her psychedelic prints into the rich tapestry of the museum. And in this resort collection, she does exactly that. Soaked in the patterns of feather and exotic flowers, liberal lashings of lamé, glittering sequins, and multicolored stripes are all part of this visually delectable collection that is bound to grace the many lavish parties and weekends of the world's elites and fashion aficionados.  

The Future is Here with Poster Girl

by Lotus Ladegaard

Behind Poster Girl are two designers Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville who met while studying at Central Saint Martin’s in London. After working for designers such as Christian Dior, Bvlgari, Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, John Galliano and Alexander Wang, the duo founded Poster Girl. 

Poster Girl strives to be innovative and focusses on quality of each designs as well as the ethics of manufacturing. They aim to launch a limited and exclusive collection each season with the most sought after looks being made available immediately. And each season, they will bring a new signature fabric and technique to the cutting board.

Poster Girl’s latest lookbook offers an intriguing collection that feels fresh and fashion forward with a London edge that appeals to many European fashionistas. The colour palette is kept in metallic pastels; delicate blues and blush with the contrast of brighter pinks, turquoise and royal blue allowing the designs to really shine through. From high-slit dresses to tops, skirts and even scarves and bags, Poster Girls new collection has it all. The silhouettes are fresh and contemporary, the colours add a bit of glamrock to the styles.

Each style and separates come with a unique hemline, squared, zig-zag’ed or high-slit. Every garment become something more than just regular clothes; the tops are quirky and edgy, some with corset details, others are draped crop tops or one shoulder. The skirts are asymmetrical, high-slit, detailed with strings or draped. It resembles clothes that are already in most closets, yet they are far more complex and appealing. It will, however, be easy to tone the look down by pairing the separates with neutral colours and thus it is easy to fall for a more than a few of their looks. The edgy fashionistas will undoubtedly favour Poster Girl and their unique take on fashion and the details that make the brand stand out. The accessories; from bags to scarves and stockings, Poster Girl knows how to make a statement and leave an impression. Especially the bags are exquisite, fresh, fun and will certainly make you stand out in a crowd. 

Poster Girl might be new to the world of fashion, but their unique eye for details and design will cement them there for years to come. Poster Girl knows the fashion world, its demand and what it takes to intrigue fashionistas and fashion editors alike. Poster girl is the Poster child of the future.
 

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Bridal Fall 2018 : Badgley Mischka and the Flex in Flexibility

by Olivia Moreau

Badgley Mischka named their dress after their Hollywood clientele which includes Beyoncé and Blake Lively. The throngs of B named dresses had an A-list feel to it very few designers have been able to court. The dresses were built with power mesh fabrics which replaced boning, and stretch-paneled sheer corsetry provided unprecedented flexibility for such high-end wedding gowns. Flexibility and intricate weaving make this collection one of the most sought-after work during this Fall season. 

Nina Ricci and the Dreamscapes of Drama

by Sofia Boyce 

Guillaume Henry of Nina Ricci took a page (no pun intended) out of literature and 18th-century theater to find inspiration for Ricci's new collection. The stock characters in these plays with their mute yet elaborate existence are all too present in this rather whimsical collection.   If commedia dell’arte is the DNA then surely the oversized flexibility of the clothes are the legs that move this collection. While it is hard to imagine how successful this would be commercially, the whimsy and the levity of this collection are worth gushing over. The dramatic shapes overwhelm the senses in some situation but ultimately comes out as fun and functional with a hint of theater. It is a collection not for the faint hearted, neither it is a collection for the most audacious, but in between that those of us enjoy levity in our clothes and history on our shoes, this is a collection worth getting into.    

Conquering Color with Diane Von Furstenberg

by Lotus Ladegaard

Scotsman Jonathan Saunders joined DVF almost a year ago and he has made quite the impact with fashion editors and fashionistas alike with his bias-cut floral prints, vibrant colours and youthful take on the brand’s aesthetics. Saunders excited with a Pre-fall and a SS17 collection that paid homage to the iconic brand known for its 70’ies wrap dresses fused with contemporary ease and style, his Resort 2018 collection will, no doubt, excite just as many and win a lot of admirers outside the usual circles of fashion forward people.

The DVF Resort 2018 collection is vibrant, colourful, bold and exciting. New silhouettes and cuts have been added while it still builds on the prior SS17 and Pre-fall collection. It is due in November and thus Saunders has experimented with a few holiday items with jewel-toned velvet stripe as well as a layered printed slip over fine-gauge knit. Jackets, coats and pants were also part of the collection in different cut and style to suit many women.

DVF is known for its summer dresses and Jonathan Saunders exceeds his previous collection with several dresses that will excite DVF fans and even attract new ones. The purple floral printed dress in ruched silk is going to be a crownd-favourite. Though the cut is not for all shapes, it is a sexy little dress that will work for many occasions. Another hot ticket item is the multi-coloured striped dress with cape, it is classic yet modern and never fails to exude DVF. The dresses, in general, have a youthful and modern feel to them which will win over many of the younger fashionistas.

Jonathan Saunders has successfully attracted new fans and followers with his unique eye and take on the brand’s aesthetics, yet managed to hold onto its loyal followers. And that in fashion circles is a job well done. 

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The Quiet Storm of the Protagonist

by Lotus Ladegaard

Georgia Lazarro's Protagonist is a protagonist when it comes to minimalism. While other brands have overused and confused the term, Protagonist always manages to deliver and while offering a bit of a New York twist to scandi-looking fashion.

It is subtleties that casually hides within the Protagonist collection. It is where the brand stands out and it is part of their DNA. It also means that silhouettes will evolve from season to season and can be worn in many ways. At first glance, many of them, however, might come off as masculine and unisex, but the more you look at them the more delicate and feminine they become.

Protagonist's 2018 Resort Collection stands out in that usual Protagonist way, it is interesting, minimalist, stylish and fashion forward. 

The 2018 Resort Collection offers the shirts and slip-dresses that have become synonymous with the brand. It also introduces new feminine and delightful pieces such as a cropped jacket and ruffled collars on the shirts. The collection is due to hit the stores in the autumn so Georgina Lazarro also included knitted sweaters and warmer looking coats and jackets. The color palette is surprisingly held in darker tones such as navy, burgundy, black and white, but also offered splashes of colour with a yellow sweater and pastel light blue pieces.

The collection, while not for every woman, will undoubtedly excite fans and followers, but Georgina Lazarro has added enough oompf and it factor to win over many more.

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Built on Eileen Gray with Max Mara

Cara Livingstone

Ian Griffiths of Max Mara is not unfamiliar with the history of feminism. His latest collection finds inspiration in the life of  Eileen Gray, a female architect of the early 20th century, who broke the glass ceiling and blazed a trail through her own for a generation of female architects. Her subtle yet exquisite style is the perfect prototype for Max Mara and its philosophy. The marinière stripe knits provides the foundation for this collection and the dignified style is sure to be popular with woman of a certain class and quality. 

Bridal Fall 2018 : Vera Wang on Nostalgia

by Zoey Grossman

Vera Wang started off as a designer of immense promise and a practitioner of art. Her promise is fully realized and there is no bigger name in Bridal wear than Vera. And from that privileged position which is fully earned Vera goes back to her roots of creating pieces that are wearable art. The grand narrative firmly entrenched within her work's DNA, the silhouettes are soothing yet bigger than life, she produces another collection worth writing home about. 

John Galliano sans John Galliano

by Olivia Moreau

John Galliano left his namesake brand in 2011 but the brand itself did not die out as it was nurtured by Galliano's confidant Bill Gaytten. Now it's 6th year without Galliano, the brand is flourishing and making a statement of its own. The ever-present blue roaring tiger embroidery on jackets and shirts, Marie Antoinette portraits on a T-shirt makes the brand more of Gaytten's brainchild as opposed to a Galliano project. And that is not a bad thing either. Gaytten infuses a sense of whimsy, a sense of movement, a sense of youthfulness that stands out and in many ways moves away from the ever long shadow of Galliano's genius. Gaytten is his own man, and John Galliano shows him in full bloom. 

Paco Rabanne and the Fiction of Functionality

by Olivia Moreau 

It's blistering in Paris. The heat is further exasperated by the visual of pre-fall clothing from many formidable names in fashion, but not Paco Rabanne. Julien Dossena's ability to conjure up small yet intrinsic change to details makes this connection a sight for sore eyes and weary heat stricken body. So much so that the see-now-buy-now model seems fully workable even in this Parisian heat. Fluid knit mesh tops, arching tanks, and low-slung skirts are all part of this subtle narrative of movement and functionality while remaining true to it's core philosophy. Paco Rabanne looks, feels formidable and sporty, functional and forward thinking and we could not ask for a better pre-fall/resort set. 

Erdem and the Trance of Time

by Cara Livingstone

Flowery jacquard textiles and embroideries soaked in intricacy, the ’40s tea dresses whimsical in their artistry and the powder puff–feathered boas and jackets are all part of Erdem's signature now. The London-based Turkish born designer is one of the most sought after and beloved designers of our time and with each collection he defines what it is to be a global sensation. His ability to weave beyond the realm of trends and transcend fashion into heirloom territory has made him a master of his craft. And this collection is a testament to his ability to remain at the top of his game. 

 

Isabel Marant and the Pursuit of Le Chic'

by Olivia Moreau

Isabel Marant is the ultimate Parisian. Her sense of aesthetics is quintessentially French and overwhelming in its cool factor.  From wrap jackets and oversize coats, the silhouettes are all relaxed yet the underlying sense of structure, the method to the chaos is evident with each passing formation. Marant's style has driven the now fabled Parisian chic streetwear long before the oversaturated space of street style. And despite many pretenders, no one does the French high streets better than Isabel Marant. 

Alejandra Alonso Rojas and the Rise of the Anti-Trend

by Olivia Moreau

Alejandra Alonso Rojas does not follow trends. She is part of a movement that is slowly permeating the collective psyche of consumers who are rejecting the insta-driven, blog-pushed marketing trends that follow the feral consumerism of fast fashion masquerading as art. So to classify any of AAR's work within the realms of any cycle is a hard task and we rather not do that. Ultimately her current collection is a product of her foundational values of trend-free fashion and stands proudly on excellent tailoring, bespoke work on leather and fabrics. From family albums to old French mills, AAR finds her muse, her inspiration and the love she feels for creating exquisite fabrics comes through the work she produces. Incorporating hand-techniques of old latin bespoke masters (which by the way cannot be replicated by a machine...yet), she delves into the deep end of the bespoke slow fashion revolution and few years down the road would be considered to be one of the most important designers among her peers. 

Ultimately AAR's collection is a process where a product is brought into life with the added benefit of having history and craftsmanship smeared all over it. To create vintage now is a holy grail many have tried and failed... in AAR's case failure is neither an option nor an end result. 

The Mastery of Silhouettes with Armani

by Lotus Ladegaard

Giorgio Armani has over the years become known for both his clean tailored lines and his 2018 Resort collection does not sway from that. Although it is brighter, a tad airier and definitely more contemporary than usual yet is remains very Armani.

The color palette was delightful with poppy red, pink and a delicate blue mixed with classical Armani shades like blacks and greys and a couple of prints. The silhouettes are easy and modern yet never sways from being Armani-esque. His play with textures and fabrics adds another dimension to the collection; mixing new fabrics with natural fibres, a paperlike texture for the silk and a smoothened organza were all parts that makes this collection relevant, modern, fresh and youthful.

Armani excels when it comes to suiting and he offers plenty of variations in his 2018 Resort collection. One of the showstoppers is the black textured suit with a gray crop top underneath. Armani has a way with prints and another favourite is the printed fitted cocktail dress with a high neckline. The graphic print is bold and loud yet will appeal to many women around the globe. The dresses range from long and flowy to fitted and sleek and many in between. The little pink layered dress with halter-neck is exquisite and playful, while the flower printed pleaded dress is sophisticated and youthful. All in all, this is a collection from a master of silhouettes and drapes. 

 

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Bridal Fall 2018 : Zuhair Murad and the Modern Bride

Zuhair Murad is the master of bridal gowns. His new collection further enhances his reputation as someone who is constantly thinking about his craft. Tulle and silk chiffon was the foundation of the dresses that were beaded, embroidered, and embellished to convey the right balance between elegance and ingenuity. The deep V's and elegant necklines added a layer of eroticism that sometimes escapes the bridal industry. A bold and elegant bride is Zuhair's primary muse and with each gown Zuhair provides an homage to the modern bride. 

Givenchy and the Colors of Transition

by Clara Thomas 

Claire Keller took over the role of Givenchy's artistic director right before this collection came to fruition but those of us who were seeking a peek into the future was duly notified that this collection is a product of the design team and the artistic director has not fully settled into her role yet. So this collection is a transitional collection but that being said, the design teams at Givenchy are no slouches, as they produced a collection full of vigor, color, and verve. This the singular tones may come across as a bit too structured, they do provide a very strong foundation for Claire to experiment and move this iconic brand forward. 

Piazza Sempione and the Rise of Italian Minimalism

by Linda Bezos 

Piazza Sempione is the epitome of fusion. A fusion of minimalism and a  sense of grandeur. PS's new pre-fall/ resort collection stands exactly where it needs to, in between functionality and elaborate expressionism. The Milanese house exudes a certain level of Scandinavian minimalism that is not very common within the confines of the Italian darling brands. This collection with its short trapeze-line tennis dress complemented by black piping, a scuba jersey, and a blue pleated shirtdress with an elongated waistline provides a holistic approach to minimalist aesthetics. While by definition that might seem like an oxymoron, the reality is the fine line between chic' and functional is being towed by the team at Piazza Sempione and it is a sight to behold.  

Aquilano Rimondi and the Joy of Symmetry

by Olivia Moreau
 

For Resort 2018, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi take inspiration from Joan Mirò's paintings  The incorporations of  graphic connections and primary colors often in contrast, characterize the vertical bands that outline the silhouette, emphasizing the duality in movement and static.

The puffy sleeves and ribbon revers, with asymmetrical cuts exude sensuality in hammered slipped crêpe, while sticking the DNA of minimalism. Experimentation with colors and stripes pays off as every single piece has a story to tell. 

 

 

Bridal Fall 2018 : Viktor & Rolf's Frosted Fairytales

by Linda Bezos

Viktor & Rolf's Fall ’18, the duo’s third bridal collection was soaked and frosted into strong whites and nothing more. Ivory ball gowns with giant cascading bows along the skirt complemented by empire-waist minidresses and jumpsuits made the collection a modern take on a fairytale wedding. From the extravagance to minimalism, this collection bore what is foundationally V&R...a sense of intrigue, sexiness and uber feminity.