by Ana Paula de Santana | Lotus Ladegaard
The last day of the Copenhagen fashion week did not throw out any curve balls. It was consistent, elegant and at times too even tempered, just like the country itself. That being said, it is not entirely a bad thing if you produce consistently good fashion. Copenhagen has become on of those cities where people can come for fashion tourism. And the last day is a good testament to the vibrant fashion communities within Copenhagen and across Scandinavia.
Hoffman Copenhagen was surely the most visually accomplished show of the day. Heidi Hoffman started Hoffman in 2011 after working within the industry for a while. Her ability to mix linear details into elegant silhouettes is worth a double take. Creation of unique and Hoffman only patchwork styles along with a strict focus of repurposing fabric to make a fully sustainable brand slow fashion brand are all great attributes of Hoffman Copenhagen. It also tells you that the designer herself is fully aware of the impact of fashion waste makes. But it is one thing to be environmentally conscious and another to be able to find the right equipoise of that consciousness and elegant design. Hoffman reaches that point rather effortlessly. The notion of “Strong Woman” and what she wears is in process of dissection in this collection and Heidi makes it an aesthetic joy as she explores the pitfalls and highs of constructing an wardrobe that appeals to the nuances of a person who is both strong and gentle at the same time. The color palettes are nothing to write home about but the way they are used, so cleverly, so purposefully to express a certain sense of longing is worth a novel. Hoffman Copenhagen is one of our favorite shows in this cycle of CPHFW.
Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is not a newcomer in any regard yet her work exudes a bit of raw energy that has not been part of the Swedish design creed. Poised (at times literally) with brooding prints and solid palette with symmetrical silhouettes makes this collection soaked in a lot of visual pleasure and functionality. The accessories are equally hot to the weather and the scene. Global, intricate and above all assured in her abilities Carin, does not pull off any punches but subtly influences pushing the envelope. The progression of Rodebjer as a brand and as an aesthetic vehicle is evident in each look and not many designer can do that with such subtlety.
At this point, Naja Munthe is more or less, a staple on the Danish fashion scene, and really ought not to be missed regardless of seasons. She may have had a somewhat dull beginning, but in later seasons she has picked up where Munthe Plus Simonsen left and fused it with her own play on Athleisure, which has resulted in exciting and intriguing collections, season after season.
The color palette was busy yet felt fresh and easy and offered a little bit of everything. The collection also featured anything you would want from a wardrobe from outerwear, suiting and dresses to sweaters, shirts, pants, slacks, and accessories. The silhouettes were easy, layered and fitted without being tight. Naturally, the collection also offered several pieces with Munthe's own play on Athleisure.
Several looks stood out and made an impact such as the long green classic check wool poncho with red and white lining along with the long green short-sleeved anorak styled with a PVC tartan printed jacket underneath and the layered see-through chiffon dress styled with a simple black t-shirt and grey and beige leggings underneath. Another favorite was the black and red check jacket with poncho effect sleeves styled with a white shirt and printed sweater as well as the printed crème shirt and black slacks with had that Munthe Athleisure about it.
Munthe's visual consistency immediately harks back to the streets of Copenhagen. And to capture that essence with such accuracy bodes well for the future of the design house.