LaLa Berlin and the Levity of Universalism

by Omi

Lala Berlin can light up even the dreariest of days. It could be because Layla Piedayesh is an inherently hopeful person and that inherent optimism shines through her work or it could be because Lala Berlin as a brand is most effective through the lens of uplifting optimism so what we see is more or less our projection stemming from how we associate certain colors with certain emotions. Theory and philosophy aside, Lala Berlin’s Spring / Summer collection titled Lala Island is an exploration of fused identity through the prism of color and tonality. From lilac to vivid orange, pastel hues to printed silhouettes, the whole collection is a curious dip into the fused aesthetics of cultural identity without the mind-numbing appropriation that comes with it. For that alone, this collection deserves a lot of praise.

On a more functional level, Lala Berlin is not here to reinvent the wheel but to make sure when the wheel is stuck in the muddy interiors of tribalism, nationalism and identity politics, there is still some respite in the form of fused identity without forgoing identity itself.

Cross-stitched Kufiya embroidery and the floral prints are deliciously poised to evoke a sense of belonging yet they are light enough to elevate the mood of the day. As a whole, the collection is filled with levity and rarely does it not fail to deliver. It is a complete collection with quirks of German functionality (in the form of scarfs turned belts), Persian sense of color and universal exploration of who and what we are.

Leyla envisions an island full of complementing identity with no real element of conflict or subjugation and foundationally that sense of aesthetics is what makes this collection one of the most well thought through and complete collection of Copenhagen Fashion Week.


Munthe's Brancusi Expedition

by Lotus Ladegaard

Naya Munthe hardly needs any introduction anymore, she is a staple at Copenhagen Fashion Week and each season her show is one of the crowd favorites. Munthe continues to challenge and develop her play on Athleisure with a twist much to the excitement of her loyal followers and fashion editors alike.

Munthe designs for women with versatile desire and needs, and thus she always aim for her looks to be easily transferred from daytime to evening. For SS20, Naja Munthe found her inspiration in the colorful and graphic universe and work of Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncusi, who made his career in Paris, France in the earlies 1900s, and thus models walked an intricate runway with graphic and colorful sculptures. Her inspiration was also easy to spot in a busy yet intriguing color palette that featured subtle neutral tones mixed with splashes of colors, checks and busy bold prints. The silhouettes were layered and slouchy yet very feminine which overall gave a very hip feel.

Munthe’s SS20 collection featured everything you need in a wardrobe from dresses to suiting and everything in between you did not know you wanted before seeing them. It is hard to point out the stand-out piece since most of her pieces were delightful and intriguing.

Pieces like the blue shirtdress styled with a lighter shade of shirt on top and the delicate pink suiting with a blue checkered shirt with pink buttons felt playful and fresh. The dark blue checkered two-piece with crop-top and skirt paired with a pair of navy-blue pants with golden checks and a black blazer along with brown suiting with a draped easy-to-wear blouse felt young and hip and very contemporary.

Munthe continued her play on dresses and thus presented several looks with flowy long dresses. Some were layered with other pieces while others stood alone. As always, the Munthe dresses had a bit of vintage feel while remaining contemporary and with an Athleisure twist to them.