Top Three Shows from Copenhagen SS19 : Day 3

by Lotus Ladegaard | Gina Parker

The last day of Copenhagen Fashion week did not throw us any curve balls. It was as consistently good as ever. The shows that stood out were the shows that had an edge to them. While the bigger Copenhagen designers were on display, Copenhagen simply does not have a truly global brand so the designers who understand their core demographics stand out more than designers who try to bombard you with influencers and celebrities.

One of our favorite shows from the CPHFW was Munthe. Naja Munthe entered the Scandinavian fashion scene with Munthe plus Simonsen, a Danish brand with great promise and flair. Just four years ago, Naja Munthe relaunched the brand as Munthe, and after a somewhat dull start, Munthe has impressed in the past two seasons and much was anticipated for SS19. Munthe did not let anyone down, she continues to develop and challenge the term athleisure and delivered a solid and fresh SS19 collection.

For SS19, Munthe showcased her collection at the beautiful venue, Skuespilshuset in Copenhagen, near the canals. Models walked a catwalk decorated with statues resembling palms and made for an interesting backdrop and show. The collection offered just about anything from dresses to outerwear and separates for most occasions. It felt fresh, feminine and classy without ever being overstated. The colour palette was summery with classic subtle prints combined with a few bold tones. 

Several looks stood out such as layered almost sheer printed dress styled with a black sheen blazer, and the burnt orange trousers styled with a scarf-top and printed coat. Several adorable shorts with bell-top waist also stood out along with much of the outerwear such as the maxi trench coat in plat, the fitted coat in print and a burnt orange pilot jacket.

If you are looking for a pair of comfortable trousers, yet still fashionable enough to attend a formal wear event, Munthe is definitely a designer you ought to know. She knows how to challenge the term athleisure and how to twist it into adorable pieces that would win over most.

Munthe’s SS19 collection is bound to excite editors and buyers alike. It is versatile and easy to mix and match and thus undoubtedly will do well. 

If Munthe is on an upward trajectory, then Lærke Andersen has been on a plain of pure excellence. Lærke Andersen is one of Denmark’s new and exciting design talents. She has already worked in different areas of design with prestigious fashion names such as Henrik Vibskov and Louis Vuitton. In 2017, she was awarded the very first Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize and was given a show at Copenhagen Fashion Week AW18. Lærke presented her SS19 collection along with ARKK. 

ARKK is a Copenhagen based sneakers brand with a custom-made outsole. The brand was founded by two childhood friends with a passion for streetwear, in 2014. The brand quickly moved beyond Scandinavia and is sold in more than 20 countries, today. 

Lærke Andersen has always sought to erase boundaries between contrasts and to deliver urban sophistication along with functionality and simplicity. Her SS19 collection continued in those lines, although her play on masculinity and femininity seemed to have been boiled down to some rather boxy silhouettes resembling workwear. The color palette was busy and offered subtle as well as bold tones. 

Lærke Andersen has surprised and impressed in prior seasons, her SS19 collection had a few stand-out looks such as the white shirt with oversized sleeves and blue shorts styled with a pair of thigh-high white sneakers, and the studded black crop top with matching shorts and colour blocked coat that almost looks like workwear styled with black sneakers. Another stand-out look was the black maxi dress with some asymmetrical seaming details styled with black knee-high sneakers and a woven round basket bag. A beige loose coat styled with thigh-high white sneakers was another example of how the ARKK sneakers elevated many of the looks.

Heliot Emil

Julius Jool and Victor Jool are traditionalist in a sense that they named their brand after their grandfather Heliot. And their aesthetics while not the most traditional by any measure is deeply rooted in the subculture of Copenhagen's street style and monochrome movement. Their SS19 show went on to dissect the role of clothing as a form of constant which impacts our variable characteristics as humans. The idea in itself is an intriguing one though not original. But the clothes have a certain levity to them that with the idea and the clothes the production becomes original and rather complementary to the duality of our existence. While it would be tempting to dig deep into the philosophical treatise of formation vs replication and evolution, the fact of the matter remains...Heliot Emil is here to slay. And with the introduction of a women's line this collection was the most Copenhagen of them all. And i dont mean the timid flowery kind that is a product of fashion's gentrification masquerading as femininity, the truest form of Copenhagen where form and function rebel against each other. And that is the the charm of Heliot Emil.

While there were surely bigger shows and better placed shows, the 9 shows we curated for Copenhagen truly stood out this season. And it is a testament to the Danish market that despite some monopolization the edgy designers are still able to be independent of market forces to an extent. 


Top Three Shows from Copenhagen SS19 : Day 2

by Olivia Morea | Gina Parker 

Day two of the Copenhagen Fashion Week did not throw any curveballs as the designers we look forward to seeing in Copenhagen, provided a solid account of themselves. Here are the top three shows we attended. 

Morten Ussing is already known for his sensual take on the scandi silhouettes. This collection is not necessarily a surprise nor it is a drift toward a different direction. And we are thankful for that. MU's work builds on his previous work as it should. This collection held on to what is so good about his work, the flowy architecture of his clothes, the movement of the drapes, see-through summer fabrics are all there. MU's work stands out because his finishing touches are becoming bolder, stronger and more self confident. His talent was always undeniable according to our colleagues at Vogue Italia, but to build on that requires a sense of comfort that drives a designer to explore deeper as opposed to go outright asymmetrical, and MU is doing just that with ease and poise. 

A complete contrast to all the other show during SS19 (so far) Stine Goya went on an all out rampage with her prints. While the color palettes veered from one spectrum from the other, the consistently elegant and whimsical prints were the standout performers for the show. Stine while still in her 30s have always been able to bridge age appropriate cuts with timeless presentation and with each passing cycle, she expands her line of vision along with her admirers. It is inevitable that some would compare her to Mary Katranzou of scandi-fashion, it is worth noting that her silhouettes are as exquisite as her prints. And this collection would stand out as a stepping stone for something greater, sharper and significant.   

MUF10 is the darling of Copenhagen street style crowd. Incorporating varied cultural elements and diversifying cuts and silhouettes to express the right tone is part and parcel of MUF10's DNA. Reza Etamadi's MUF10 is probably the most culturally diverse clothes in many ways. The divergence of street style through the prism of social, ethnic and national identity is routinely present within the constructs of MUF10s workflow. You can almost feel the socio-economic divergence that is happening within MUF10s aesthetics. Copeanhagen has always produced very strong streetwear that rivaled Berlin, New York and L.A. due to it's insular identity and that was a winning formula even 5 years ago. But in a globalized world where Cape Town, Shanghai, Tel Aviv or Beirut is as important as any other streetstyle obessed city that insular formula does not cut it anymore. And MUF10 have figured out that foundational element of the progression of streetstyle aesthetics. And addresses that insular-ness by making clothes that would fit in any streetstyle showdown anywhere. MUF10 might be rooted in the diverse identity of Danish fashion, but it is surely a global-looking brand.