The Siren Call of the Street with Lærke Andersen

by Camilla Mikkelsen

Lærke Andersen, a former student of Central Saint Martins in London, has come a long way since she launched her AW15 collection. In 2017 she won the Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize and this year she was ready to show off her AW18 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week and she did so with a bang.

Lærke Andersen's work incorporates sport and workwear (something in the grey area of athleisure), which was obvious when the models came down the catwalk. The show took place in an industrial warehouse which complimented the feel of the collection and fitted the inspiration with its rawness. 

The collection contained a variety of pants, sweatshirt, dresses, skirts, and jackets done with a mix of materials to create an exciting look, making it easy to look both fashion-forward and handling of the Danish winter. The color range suited the styles and went from dark green and blue to pastel yellow. Of course, the colors black, grey and white were represented as well, it is Denmark after all. 

The inspiration from sports was seen through tights that looked like fashionable styles for the gym as well as sweatpants and sweatshirts while workwear was shown in the visible seams and in the materials like canvas used for jackets. There were also several styles made of denim, which sends thoughts back to durable workwear worn by the gold miners in the 1870’s. The mix between the two inspiration sources worked well together, giving a  strong street feel.

She furthermore has an interest in making both the masculine and the feminine details come together as well as merging function and luxury. This was shown in voluminous silhouettes, while the feminine details were seen in buttons, slits, tops, and ruffles. The materials used in the collection was a mixture of both masculine and feminine. The canvas versus the teddy bear fabric, see-through material, and velvet. She melted function and luxury together by using luxury material and making styles with a functional use to them.

Lærke Andersen incoporates true to her design DNA by using former design elements like denim or evolving former details for this collection, for instance, the feminine polka dots from former collections, that she evolved and gave a distinctly high street meets low street expression. This is slow fashion done right.


Oslo Runway AW18 : A Brief yet Intense Love Affair Vol. II

by Olivia Moreau, Lotus Ladegaard and Omi 

Oslo Runway not only provided the quintessential scandi-minimalism but also provided an array of femenine wear that are slowly but surely finding a consumer base in a very egalitarian society. And of all the delicate soothing pieces presented during Oslo Runway, some new ones stood out along with the usual suspects.  

If you think of femenine silhouettes in Oslo, you should go no further than Tina Mollatt. Tina Mollatt founded by TiMo in 2004 with the vision to offer high-quality clothing at justifiable prices. She creates garments that mix modern romance with timeless craftsmanship. By TiMo’s AW18 collection was elegant and romantic with hints of bohemian sophistication and floral serenity. The colour palette was very much in line with the colours of the season and included a blend of vibrant prints. The collection offered a wide range of looks from the everyday workwear to outerwear and evening wear. The easy-to-wear flowy silhouettes, the loose lines, the sway of the fabrics were delectable with the sound of norwegian artist Sandra Kolstad.  

It is expected that any Scandinavian fashion show would have a certain sense of minimalist attitude when it comes to aesthetics and Oslo runway tends to tow that line very carefully. The lavish, the ridiculous and at times the over-the-top fashion manifesto is truly out of place in a city that prides itself on somber and reserved aesthetics...and it shows in fashion as well. But that does not mean that Oslo runway is boring, it is an intellectual dissection of Norwegian fashion with a mixture of commercialism which is needed to survive in this industry. 

Despite being a newcomer, Cala Jade has quickly made a name for themselves as a luxury accessories brand with an eye for detail and materials. Their functional, yet edgy and timeless designed bags and accessories have excited the world of fashion and it is easy to see why. Cala Jade’s new collection offers all the bags you need and then some. From big stylish shoulder bags to smaller and sophisticated bags and edgy clutches, Cala Jade knows what women crave. With a focus on the physical attributes of the materials, their origin, and treatment, Cala Jade stands out among its peers. For each collection, the designers carefully select high-quality materials and the little details such as minuscule, rivet, buckles, and seams. Their design philosophy has inspired two lines; the refined and feminine Cala, and the androgynous and daring Jade. Together they will appeal to fashionistas of all ages around the world.

Veronica B. Vallenes is surely the Queen of Fusion within the Nordic scene. Her work known for its fusion between Nordic simplicity and the Parisian elegance has been drawing in buyers bigger scandi market and has the universal appeal that is so necessary to stand out and prosper. With an eye for detail, she successfully mixes textiles such as silk with heavy alpaca wool and added a functional yet sensual take on the contemporary Scandinavian wardrobe. Her AW18 collection certainly had all the Veronica B. Vallenes’ characteristics, however, the references to Paris were inescapable and at times a bit too predictable. Nevertheless, Veronica B. Vallenes always delivers excellent craftsmanship and exquisite finishing and the AW18 collection will undoubtedly excite her followers.

All in all Oslo Runway was a polished and well thought out affair that has the foundational and logistical elements that make a fashion week great. And as Norwegian fashion takes center stage within the scandi-market and slowly penetrates the big four, Oslo runway has positioned itself as the primary if not only game in town.