The Unveiling of Jonathan Cohen

by Sylvia Stoss

It is almost a surprise to find out that Jonathan Cohen has never shown during NYFW. In his first outing on the famed but subdued platform, Jonathan did what he does best...mesmerize his clientele with outright levity. From lean dresses with botanical prints to structured mini in a rainbow all came with the customary JC look. The raw edges, the oversized sleeves are always there but JC's work has evolved into truly encapsulating the many colorful facets of being a modern woman in these times. As almost a countermeasure to negative colors JC poured all the colors of the spectrum into his collection and our eyes and our sense of style are thankful for it. 

Red Valentino and the Joy of Lightness

by Olivia Moreau

Pierpaolo Piccioli saunters through Red Valentino as a designer who is completely comfortable with who he is. While the artistic struggle to remain consistent and relevant still remains (as it should) Red Valentino takes on the role of a sheltered existence from the harshness of reality. At a time when feminism is truly under siege from old white men, Red Valentino provides an ecosystem of aesthetics built solely on the shoulders of romanticism. The quality of work and the presence of multicolored, soft fabrics layered with even softer tones make this collection feel like cotton candy…sweet, nostalgic and may be a bit too ethereal. But in a world where celebrities throw “Handmaiden Parties” and abortion rights are being trampled, this sort of softer aesthetics provides a brief sense of joy and a brief sense of serenity. And that remains the primary value of fashion.

The Soft Aesthetic Pleasures of Kate Spade

by Olivia Moreau

Kate Spade has always been a staple when it comes to accessories and handbags. Expanding that universe to incorporate clothing can be a bit tricky, but Nicola Glass does it with an air of ease. For the Resort collection, Kate Spade's primary aesthetics is firmly rooted in soft colors and equally delicate floral prints. From the reintroduction of archival aesthetics through Kate Spade handbags to flowy tonlality of the dresses this collection veers into the territory of universalism as opposed to appealing to a niche’ sets of consumers. It is inevitably one of the most complete collection Kate Spade has produced in the last few cycles. This in itself suggests a strong evolution that is in tune with KS’s history within the accessories market while keeping pace with the rest of the big houses in fashion.

Brunello Cucinelli and an Ode to Italian Consistency

by Lydia Manna

Brunello Cucinelli’s love for his Italian countryside roots is re foundation for a lot of his collections and his fall collection does not veer away from that. And that is a good thing. His work for the last four decades have been of utmost excellence and formidable quality. He has spent hours and hours perfecting what you would call the BC look. While that look may not be distinguishable to the average eye, anyone who follows fashion and understands the need to keep to moving forward, loves Brunello’s work. From a little deconstruction to a bit of a stiff silhouette BC’s work can toe to toe with anyone working in the industry at this point.

Love in Lisbon with Galia Lahav

By Andrea Arjento

Galia Lahav’s head designer Sharon Sever took on Lisbon at it’s most clear and most enigmatic and unfurled a set of gowns worthy for a torrid love affair that is their inspiration. While it may seem counter-intuitive to have bridal gowns as an homage to torrid love affairs on paper, the reality is all love affairs worth writing about has a certain element of torrid-ness to it. And Sharon is able to weave that element of variability into a fairytale that looks wonderfully complex and elegant. This specific collection has all the signature Galia Lahav details but in many ways, it is also the most realistic exploration of the fairytales we tell ourselves. And for that, we are in love with Galia Lahav's Lisbon collection.

Marchesa and the Endless Spring

by Lotus Ladegaard

Marchesa is a staple in the world of fashion when it comes to formal and bridal wear. With an eye for delightful details, intricate embroidery and draping along with luxurious and ethereal textiles, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have created a brand that oozes femininity and remains a staple on the runway as well as the red carpet despite the recent negative attention that Marchesa seemed to have weathered.

Marchesa’s Bridal Spring collection is exciting, bold and feminine. It features styles that will appeal to a large variety of brides and thus will undoubtedly be hot with any bride-to-be, this season. With their usual mix of embroidered silk, 3D embellished chiffons and organza Marchesa knows how to impress and make an impact that will last.

Several looks and details in the collection stood out and will be remembered. The play on vails adds another dimension to bridal wear and will most likely be sought after. Looks like the fitted corsage dress with draped bow and trail and the over-the-shoulder ballgown with deep décolletage stood out and left an impression. The draped dress with sheer and embroidered cape was another stand out along with a-line dress with the asymmetrical embroidered cape. Naturally, the collection also featured several classic looks such as satin fit-and-flare with exaggerated over the shoulder sleeves and a beautiful lace a-line with key-hole back detail and several ballgowns.

Marchesa is a staple when it comes to bridal wear, and we doubt that will change any time soon, and it is easy to see why. The designer duo knows the brand’s appeal, its ability, and limits and thus moves within those boundaries much to the excitement of their loyal followers.

Vera Wang's Spring Rebellion

by Anna Brosova

Vera Wang’s Spring bridal is a celebration of avant-garde wrapped in seasonal tidings. The layered complexity of each dress provides a true statement of feminism and femininity. While the color palettes remain traditional enough, the deconstruction of wedding wear as a statement piece for the avant-garde is inescapable. Vera’s work have been moving in this direction for the last three seasons and with each passing season her team add more context to an already beautiful mosaic of her progression as a designer and an artist. There are many wonderful designers in the wedding circuit now but no one walks the line of avant-garde and traditional like Vera does.

Fendi's Flow of Functionality

By James Heaton

Clare Waight Keller’s Fendi is a big tent brand. It wants to capture the most basic elements of our lives while providing a sense of luxury and whimsy. And by and large, it succeeds with a certain kind of ease which you have come to expect from CWK. The incorporation of functionality as a brand ethos have benefitted Fendi greatly and there is little doubt that CWK have instilled that belief to be proliferated through both womenswear and menswear lines. While the menswear line is a bit static due to its overwhelming attachment to the Tisci’s reign and to an extent tired Parisian aesthetics of tailored-loose contrasts, the womenswear line brimming with sophistication and clarity of ideas. The progression of CWK as a heavyweight of fashion is evident both in form and function in this collection. While that is easy to state for a brand like Fendi, it is hard to find one’s own voice when you are in charge of a big fashion house. CWK does this with ease. And that ease translates into Fendi’s resurgence as one of the strongest performer artistically and commercially.

Built on Eileen Gray with Max Mara

Cara Livingstone

Ian Griffiths of Max Mara is not unfamiliar with the history of feminism. His latest collection finds inspiration in the life of  Eileen Gray, a female architect of the early 20th century, who broke the glass ceiling and blazed a trail through her own for a generation of female architects. Her subtle yet exquisite style is the perfect prototype for Max Mara and its philosophy. The marinière stripe knits provides the foundation for this collection and the dignified style is sure to be popular with woman of a certain class and quality. 

Calvin Klien and the American Divide

by Olivia Moreau

A hallucinatory farm scene in the New York stock exchange seems like an appropriate way of presenting Calvin Klien/Raf Simons new iteration on the American classic. The aesthetic was purely directed toward the Americana meets Justin Timberlake crowd but it was done in a way that even the most notorious of doubters can get into it. The transitional nature of the clothes from stripped fireman jackets to chiffon gowns were all part of the narrative of American division, and the inevitable divide that separates the prosperous coasts from the struggling underbelly of the midwest. As if you push that point home the visuals (paper popcorn bags) exuded a tense balance between a country divided and a country trying to move forward. It was probably the best show during an underwhelming fashion week. 

Alberta Ferretti and the Call of the Evolved Couture

by Sylvia Mathews

Alberta Ferretti built her empire on the foundation of light and flowy couture. From flexible silhouettes to shinny silk, her work has remained consistent and consistently good. So she would be in no hurry to change things up. But as it is with artists they rarely follow the safest route. And this Haute Couture collection is Alberta’s plunge into the unknown…into the structured silhouettes and more minimalist expressions of joy. All the other things that make her work standout still remain intact making this a collection worth savoring. Evolution always is.

Carolina Herrera's Refined Lightness

by Olivia Moreau

Lightness comes in many forms. From Kundera's unbearable lightness to Wes Gordon's delicate and romantic lightness. And Carolina Herrera's bridal collection is an accumulation of Wes Gordon's romantic vision where the structures of rigidity have slowly given birth to the lightness of ethereality. This collection Wes Gordon dives deep into the ethereal while leaving a lot to imagination and perspective. A lace based gown morphed as a restrained form of luxury is just one of the many surprises of Gordon's vision. Embroidered camellias and tulle filled gowns were the foundation of this lightness and with the right kind of touch which Gordon possesses, Carolina Herrera's legacy getting a proper makeover.

Holly Fulton's Love Letters to Europe

by Linda Bezos

Holly Fulton took a hiatus for almost a year and this is her second collection of her second coming. And by the looks of it, it is a second coming worth celebrating. Overture of Brexit dictated the foundational aesthetics of Art Deco graphics, the shape of the Empire State Building, large Swarovski crystals and Mongolian repurposed fur. The 'long-distance love affair' with Europe proper is peaking through her magnificent take on this calamity of isolationism that has gripped at least half of the British isles. Ultimately her collection is far more romantic than the nitty-gritty details of her inspiration Brexit which by any measure is an ongoing headache. But for sake of jest, a collection like this helps to deal with the magnificently daft decision that is Brexit. 

Antonio Berardi and the Pursuit of Precision

by Lotus Ladegaard

Antonio Berardi was fast-tracked into a fashion career when he studied at the prestigious Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, meanwhile working as John Galliano’s assistant. He graduated in 1994 with a noticeable collection which attracted London buyers such as Liberty and A La Mode. He launched his first professional collection the following season. Unlike may other fashion houses, Antonio Berardi’s eponymous house is run completely autonomous due to the designer’s sense for not only fashion, but also manufacturing and business. 

Antonio Berardi has become synonymous with sensual figure-hugging dresses and classic silhouettes. He focusses much on the manufacturing techniques and is not afraid to try out new ones, he also works with advanced fabrics and plays with them. Drawing on influences from many different genres and disciplines from arts to his Sicilian heritage, he always manages to create pieces that collaborate with the female form and enhances it. 

For Resort 2019, the UK born designer presented an interesting and fabulous lookbook that is bound to take fashion editors by storm around the world. It might not be the most glamorous, however, it feels fresh, real and each look stands out. The colour palette was vibrant and fresh with multi-coloured prints, stripes, yellow as well as more subdued tones like dusty and dark green, grey and a pale blue. The silhouettes offered a little bit of everything from fitted and tailored dresses to easy-to-wear dresses. 

Antonio Berardi is a master when it comes to cut and precision, he knows how to construct garments to enhance the female form and every single look has been worked to perfection by him. In such a lookbook most looks stand out and make an impact, especially the burnt printed caftan in chiffon and the multi-coloured striped suit. The oversized yellow dress with pleated skirt felt fresh and youthful while still remaining luxurious and glamorous. The grey/white ruffled top with grey skirt was another exquisite look that showcased his eye for details. Another very stylish look was the layered look with grey trousers and tops with extra length and width at the back as well as little bolero jacket in a busy print. 

Antonio Berardi has created a very fresh, relatable and interesting Resort collection that will take fashion editors around the globe by storm. It will appeal to all his fans and might even pull out a few new ones. 
 

Striking a Pose with Zac Posen

by Andrea De Silva

Zac Posen encapsulates drama like no other. This resort collection is inevitably full of drama with floral prints to frocks that evoke a sense of poetry. The movement and the silhouettes of the collection are firmly on the cusp of evening wear which is Zac Posen’s bread and butter. But beyond that, this collection also feels much more organic and less planned, and foundationally closer to a full wardrobe as opposed to a full narrative. The signature Posen elements are all there with a sense of spontaneity and clarity of vision. If there is a grand narrative in each artists vision, then this collection fits in nicely with Posen’s previous work yet stands out with a sense of purpose.

Badgley Mischka and the Flex in Flexibility

by Olivia Moreau

Badgley Mischka named their dress after their Hollywood clientele which includes Beyoncé and Blake Lively. The throngs of B named dresses had an A-list feel to it very few designers have been able to court. The dresses were built with power mesh fabrics which replaced boning, and stretch-paneled sheer corsetry provided unprecedented flexibility for such high-end wedding gowns. Flexibility and intricate weaving make this collection one of the most sought-after work during this Fall season. 

Jill Sander and the Second Coming of Ultra-Cool

by Linda Bezos 

Jill Sander's design team of Luke and Lucie Meier reconceptualizes the Jill Sander ethos through the aesthetic of polish and symmetry. The resort collection is full of personal fashion with grand ideas. Each individual piece fits nicely into the grand vision of the designers who instill radical and edgy elements to even the most mundane objects. Jill Sander's resort collection is full of grace, glory and outright rebellion but with an understated desire to fit in. It is a collection worth swooning over.    

Caught Red Handed with Red Valentino SS19

by Bianca Hill

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli found his inspiration in the undying spirit of the Mexican women revolutionaries in his latest collection for a brand that has always championed that cause with utter ease and great aesthetics. The contrast of women revolutionaries with the soft edge of femininity playing intricately with the roughness of their existence is fully realized in this collection. It is wild and subtle at the same time, with movements draped into each piece. There's a restlessness to it and there's a lot of red to it as well. It is a proper Valentino joint. 

Tory Burch Sports the Sports

By Olivia Moreau

Tory Burch Sport is what you would expect it to be... sporty. But just like every aspect of Tory's work it has an underlying layer that is quintessentially hip, quintessentially Tory. Mix and Match stripes to puffy jackets add a sense of streetstyle to Tory's already expansive work.  The bold checked version of tights along with exercise heavy gears are all part of a collection that is going to be a commercial win for Tory Burch. 

Tory Burch and the Redux in Americana

by Soledad Christina Rodrigues

Tory Burch is the perfect example of American exuberance. She resort collection encapsulates that aspect of her identity along with the imagery of her Philadelphia childhood in one singular narrative. From printed birds to tweed printed suits, the obvious attachment to the 70s make this resort collection nostalgic with a hint of Americana. It is a celebration of Tory’s uncanny ability to remain in the moment while passing on that same feeling to her admirers.