Carolina Herrera and the Love of the Old-Fashioned

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera's bridal collection this fall goes back to the roots of bridal collections. By rejecting any superfluous notion of trend dictating aesthetics in bridalwear Carolina moves into the rarefied territory of a designer completely comfortable with who she is and where she wants to move her brand. Sheer, Light, White and very elegantly sowed together each piece took us back to the traditional aesthetics of bridal wear. The practical aspect of Carolina's collection is never overshadowed by fantasy or elements of whimsy, and she holds that line like the pro she is. 

For a Proper New York Fall Feel dial 6397

by Olivia Moreau

Stella Ishii and her team are well known within the New York scene for their Tomboy-ish wear. The obvious homage to scandi-fashion has always been evident in her work. This season she pushes that boundary to incorporate a bit more global, less regional aesthetics by bringing in sharply constructed clothing and even clearer lines. The menswear inspired aesthetics is still the foundation of her work, but incorporation of delicate fabrics from pink silk to soft wool opens up a new and exciting territory for Stella's future endeavors. 

The Soft Whispers of Marchesa

by Olivia Moreau

Marchesa has always been ethereal, and full of feminine glory. This collection is no different and we are thankful for that. The delicate dance between ruffles and sheer, the love affair between tone and lines are all present in Marchesa’s Spring collection. The torrent of negative attention that almost sunk the brand seems like a distant memory or may be it is just an escape from the realities that still await Marchesa. It is still a polished and quietly confident collection that knows its limits and its appeal.

Too Hot for Couture with Inbal Dror

by Samantha Arnold

Inbal Dror has built up a reputation of outright excellence for her Haute Couture collection. And her current bridal collection stands heavily yet confidently on that reputation. From front slits and plunging necklines to shimmery beads, often tempered by traditional ball skirts and long sleeves, this collection is for the modern bride and on the move celebrity. The details make the collection but it is lines and silhouette that builds the foundation of this wonderfully intricate series of dresses. This collection stands out as not only because of it's exquisite nature but also Inbal's willingness to create something more approachable for the less famous brides. 

Badgley Mischka and the Flex in Flexibility

by Olivia Moreau

Badgley Mischka named their dress after their Hollywood clientele which includes Beyoncé and Blake Lively. The throngs of B named dresses had an A-list feel to it very few designers have been able to court. The dresses were built with power mesh fabrics which replaced boning, and stretch-paneled sheer corsetry provided unprecedented flexibility for such high-end wedding gowns. Flexibility and intricate weaving make this collection one of the most sought-after work during this Fall season. 

Julie de Libran's Fashion Liberation

by Sylvia Stoss

Julie de Libran has seen it all or at least have seen enough of the big fashion houses to know what works and what does not. In her stellar yet young career she has gone through Prada, Versace and everything in between. So her niche’ brand does not lack in gravitas, neither does it lack in originality and poise. Julie’s work has evolved over the years and her Couture collection in Paris encapsulates that evolution into neatly held ideas as dresses. Feminine and liberating JdL constructs a narrative of utmost ease and effortless grace. Add a sense of sustainability to the process and what JdL has done is both understated and extraordinary and are bound to have a strong impact on the commercial aspect of this ever-evolving art.

Tomo Koizumi's Ruffled Genius

By Cara Livingstone

Tomo Koizumi’s path to NYFW has been probably the most magical in terms of introduction to impact. Plucked from relative obscurity by Katie Grand, his ascent to the pantheons of NY fashion has been an interesting exploration of celebrity culture and the power of such cultural trends to dictate aesthetic pleasures for the masses (or at least the New York IT crowd). So Koizumi’s second collection presented during NYFW this cycle came with an added novelty and a bit of dread of falling into a sense of manufactured genius.

Koizumi deftly bypassed all that American Idiol-esque shortcuts that brought him here and produced quite possibly one of the most outstanding exploration of ruffled fabric. With hundreds of meters of ruffled Japanese polyester organza, utilized with only one zipper, his work spoke volumes of his genius. It was almost like finding out that an American idol winner is actually David Bowie in drag.

The beauty of the layered ruffles along with a sense of levity of his costumes (they cannot be classified as everyday wear), made Tomo Koizumi’s second collection devoid of novelty and brimming with genius.

30 Years of Moving Fashion Forward with Vera Wang

by Lotus Ladegaard

Vera Wang is celebrating her 30th anniversary in the fashion industry with a knock-out Bridal Collection for Fall 2020 which is also her 60th Bridal collection. Many might have been tempted to look back and celebrate previous successes, however, Vera Wang never fails to look ahead and design for the future. Vera Wang is not afraid to sway away from the classical silhouettes or challenge herself to new silhouettes with classic textiles. The Bridal Fall 2020 collection was fun and fresh, innovative and full of classic bridal white, which feels very refreshing in a time when colours seem to dominate the Bridal trends.

The collection featured a variation of silhouettes from high-low to sleek and fitted in addition to a few styles that borderline avant-garde details. She continues to play with straps, oversized sleeves, layers and removable pieces such as straps and bras. The colour palette was kept in white tones with contrasting black as embroidered statements and accessories as well as a beautifully tailored A-line dress with almost two sets of skirts styled with an exquisite hat and mint leather gloves. Other stand-out pieces were the white ballgown with ruffles and skirt in chiffon and tulle with a black embroidered “I DO” in gothic letters and a removable black bra and straps along with the two beautiful fitted and sleek dresses with over-the-shoulder straps and sleeves. The collection also featured a few more classic silhouettes such as the easy-to-wear dress with oversized sleeves.  

Vera Wang’s Fall Bridal 2020 collection shows exactly why the experienced designer has been relevant for so many years. She is bold and unafraid when it comes to experimenting with both silhouette, textiles, and details and thus manages to win new territory again and again.