Americana by Adam Lippes

By Lotus Ladegaard

Adam Lippes began his career at Polo Ralph Lauren, and soon found himself at the cusp of greatness as he joined Oscar de la Renta, and became the youngest Creative Director of any Fashion house around. In 2014, he founded his eponymous brand with a play on American sportswear with unassuming elegance and understated designs. His designs are known for its ease and details.

For AW19, Adam Lippes presented an interesting collection that will excite his followers and undoubtedly be noticed by fashion editors. It is understated, detailed and feels fresh and easy. The silhouettes featured easy-to-wear as well as more fitted pieces. The color palette offered a little bit of everything from basic black and white tones to pastels tones and bold yellow and red along with a few busy burgundy red prints.

Several looks stood out while the collection also had a few less flattering looks. Among the stand-out pieces were a white high collar blouse styled with a fitted pair of black trousers which oozed of a distinct sense of style . Also, the burgundy red printed two-piece set with a dark beige cape stood out and made a strong impression.

Pieces like the yellow ruffled chiffon dress and the yellow ruffled blouse styled with a pair of dark army green shorts along with a pastel-colored ruffled chiffon blouse styled with tartan printed skirt were less flattering to a woman’s body, and thus not the most successful ones.

But Adam Lippes know how to design and tweak American sportswear into high fashion such as the lime green easy-to-wear dress and the burgundy red dress with multi-colored hemline styled with a coat in the same print along with the long red silk dress.

It is easy to spot why Adam Lippes has made a name for himself with his eye for details and play on American Sportswear. And this collection further establishes his own sense of aesthetics as a formidable commentary on Americana.

The Whimsical Blues of Erdem

by Lotus Ladegaard

Established in 2005, Erdem has become synonymous with experimental textiles, vibrant prints, versatile yet powerful femininity that speaks to a variety of women. Behind the brand also known for its detailed craftmanship is Turkish Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, who studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art and interned with Vivienne Westwood. Over the years, the talented designer has received many awards and accolades and gained a wide celebrity following. 

Drawing on inspiration from the work of photographers Diana Arbus and William Eggleston, Erdem has created an interesting and bold Resort collection that will charm his fans and intrigue new ones. Bold floral prints, dramatic collars, and vintage elbow-length gloves all culminated in several stand-out looks with tons of editorial appeal. 

Styled with unusual, at times even funny, hats, calf-length stockings and odd loafers, some looks seemed to clash more than match yet still somehow worked together. The colour palette was busy with several floral prints from the darker and dustier tones such as navy blue, black and grey to lighter tones such as pink, white and metallic silver. The Victorian and pipe collars stood out and certainly made a focal point borderlining the avant-garde yet remaining very Erdem-esque. The Turkish and Canadian designer had also played with the silhouettes almost distorting them to mimic a dress that had its lining pulled out without actually distorting them. 

Among the stand-out looks were a couple of sheer chiffon dresses in silver and navy blue with white dots styled with a sass at the waist tied in a bow as well as a pink floral coat with pleting at the back. Many of the floral dresses felt romantic and feminine with a vintage feel that undoubtedly will do well with many fashionistas around the globe. 

Erdem has created a very intriguing Resort 2019 collection with tons of editorial appeal that will only cement him further into the world of fashion.
 

Fall Foliage with Osman

by Irene Bisset

Osman Yousefzada has built a reputation of undeniable envy through flattering silhouettes infused forward thinking clothing. While he has never ventured into the outright avant-garde his work is a beautiful bridge between commercially successful and stylistically ambition aesthetics. This collection is built on that foundation. Floral Prints, ruffles, sheer fabrics all take their respective places in Osman’s universe as he fashions the fashion into accessible yet exclusive heights. From leathery skirts to shimmery dresses the collection feels complete and precise with it’s brevity just like Osman’s work.

Photographs Courtesy of Osman

Giving into Givenchy

By Linda Bezos

Givenchy knows what it is doing. This pre-fall collection is all about lines and details. From printed suits to chic' coats the entire collection is set up to convey the confidence of a brand that is at it's creative best. Multi-colored skirts and brooding sunglasses are complemented by delicate long coats whimsical belts. It is a collection meant for people who already know what they like and have no problem acquiring them. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

Caught Red Handed with Red Valentino SS19

by Bianca Hill

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli found his inspiration in the undying spirit of the Mexican women revolutionaries in his latest collection for a brand that has always championed that cause with utter ease and great aesthetics. The contrast of women revolutionaries with the soft edge of femininity playing intricately with the roughness of their existence is fully realized in this collection. It is wild and subtle at the same time, with movements draped into each piece. There's a restlessness to it and there's a lot of red to it as well. It is a proper Valentino joint. 

Bally and the Mountains of Consistency

by Veronica Duffour

With the introduction of vintage Everest motif sweaters to the cowled colored shearlings, Bally finds its inspiration from the Alpine Peaks to the vast Swiss mountain ranges and produces a collection steeped in retro charm. Bally remains a brand that is polished and always well groomed, but never really going outside it’s comfort zones and while that may seem too static for some brands, Bally’s confidence in the aesthetics it propagates suggests a brand that likes to hold the line. And within that line is excellent stitching, carefully constructed narrative and a certain sense of posh comfort. Bally is what Bally has always been and for that reason Bally’s consistency is so admired.

Brunello Cucinelli and an Ode to Italian Consistency

by Lydia Manna

Brunello Cucinelli’s love for his Italian countryside roots is re foundation for a lot of his collections and his fall collection does not veer away from that. And that is a good thing. His work for the last four decades have been of utmost excellence and formidable quality. He has spent hours and hours perfecting what you would call the BC look. While that look may not be distinguishable to the average eye, anyone who follows fashion and understands the need to keep to moving forward, loves Brunello’s work. From a little deconstruction to a bit of a stiff silhouette BC’s work can toe to toe with anyone working in the industry at this point.

Naeem Khan and the Forces of Transformation

by Andrea Hanson

Naeem Khan's work is transformative. While that may seem like a philosophical statement, it is also a literal one when it comes to his bridal wear. A multitude of silhouettes in one single dress that can go from the wedding aisle to dance floor to morning brunch is something Naeem has been perfecting for the last few seasons and it is paying rich dividends. With each passing collection, Naeem is only making wonderfully intricate gowns but also removing a lot of stress from the bride by giving them multipurpose dresses and suits. Now you can truly go bonkers over your flower arrangements as the Naeem got you covered when it comes to your wedding dress.

Isabel Marant and the Pursuit of Le Chic'

by Olivia Moreau

Isabel Marant is the ultimate Parisian. Her sense of aesthetics is quintessentially French and overwhelming in its cool factor.  From wrap jackets and oversize coats, the silhouettes are all relaxed yet the underlying sense of structure, the method to the chaos is evident with each passing formation. Marant's style has driven the now fabled Parisian chic streetwear long before the oversaturated space of street style. And despite many pretenders, no one does the French high streets better than Isabel Marant. 

The One and Only Moncler 1 with Pierpaolo Piccioli

By Eva Lighthouse

Moncler’s Genius project is ambitious. Producing 11 collectionsside by side requires a level of coordination only Moncler seem to pull off seamlessly. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Moncler 1 was most definitely the one that stood out in a collection of outstanding clothes. Valentino’s creative director took on the collaboration to a new level by approaching Liya Kebede to provide the patterns and aesthetic of her sustainable and socially responsible Ethiopian label lemlem. And what comes out is a mind-blowing collection of Street-smart couture that is art and commerce at the same time. The intricacy and the range of this collection is most definitely the best collection we have seen so far and it will be hard to top.

Edeline Lee's Secret Garden

by Lydia Schaff

Edeline Lee ventured inward to find her zen wrapped in traditionalism of the east. Chaos and Clarity is the foundational structure of her new collection. It is hard to ignore the monastic tone of her collection as she imbued her aesthetics with solid palettes and dark floral jacquards which were a nod to the Garden of Eden. While employing technique draping and tassel trimmings that were reminiscent of Ayurvedic robes, she re-conceptualized the collection as a form of protection against the myriad upheaval of the outside world. It is a collection deeply rooted in the sophistication of a designer who embraces her introvert-ness as a form of armor. 

Co’s No Nonsense Clarity

by Julia Avila

Stephanie Danan and her partner Justin Kern are the brains behind Co. With minimalism playing a prominent role in their design aesthetics, Co team has an uncanny ability to make clothes seem like an elaborate statement. That in itself is a hefty ask, on top of that add a variety of silhouettes, and Co touches all demographic bases. Co makes rational, organic, pinpoint clothes…none of which by itself would be too exciting, yet Co’s clothes are brimming with wonderful electricity.

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena reach. 

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Naeem Khan's Summer in the Winter

by Abigail Smith-Rowe

Naeem Khan is a staple when it comes to bridal wear. As he expands his deft touches to the ever evolving market of in-between clothes, he is acutely aware of the needs of his jet-setting clients. This 2019 collection is an homage to that clientele who are on the move, who will be attending weddings and engagements during the summer at greek islands and south african coasts. The color palette of the clothes are wildly satisfying and they are easily portable unlike a wedding dress. Naeem’s work here is relatively more minimalist in terms of silhouettes and lines. His bread and butter remains tie-ins and convertible pantsuits yet this collection touches all aspect of that elusive summer that will come eventually.

Too Hot for Couture with Inbal Dror

by Samantha Arnold

Inbal Dror has built up a reputation of outright excellence for her Haute Couture collection. And her current bridal collection stands heavily yet confidently on that reputation. From front slits and plunging necklines to shimmery beads, often tempered by traditional ball skirts and long sleeves, this collection is for the modern bride and on the move celebrity. The details make the collection but it is lines and silhouette that builds the foundation of this wonderfully intricate series of dresses. This collection stands out as not only because of it's exquisite nature but also Inbal's willingness to create something more approachable for the less famous brides. 

The Second Coming of Luisa Beccaria

by Amanda Hanson

Luisa Beccaria and Couture have always had an intricate relationship. Despite not having a proper couture collection since 1995, her work has always coat-tailed along couture among the more hip crowd. The ever-present sense of femininity with a dash of ethereal whimsy is the foundation of Luisa’s work and that is translated into a universal language of high couture in this collection. Unlike the plethora of haute couture houses who view “more as more”, Luisa focuses more on the personal experience of wearing couture… of looking at couture as the vehicle of supreme individuality. And for that, it is a great joy to welcome her back.

Burberry's Generational Inclusivity with Riccardo Tisci

by Lana Hamid

Burberry has always been the favorite of traditionalists. Before Riccardo Tisci’s arrival it was a brand that was most comfortable within the realm of uptight sophistication and occasional burst of legacy obsession. To call Burberry (pre-Tisci) boring would have been a bit harsh but accurate. That label is wearing off with each collection Tisci is producing. In his second full collection Tisci takes on the generational divide and bridges them with traditional and non-traditiional silhouettes, clever infusion of color and above all an imposing collection of the rebirth of Burberry 2.0. The rigidity is now complemented by fluidity, the beige icons are complement by blue and red. And the traditionalists and the avant-garde-ists are both equally represented as a happy medium. Re-inventing Burberry is harder than it looks but the ease to which Tisci has gone about dismantling the cobwebs of comfort into a frenzy of dynamism is worth admiring, applauding and above replicating.

Maison Francesco Scognamiglio's Diva Allure

by Martha Newhouse

Scognamiglio’s penchant for a sexy, diva-esque allure telegraphed through feminine effervescence of frills and ruffles were on outstanding display for this haute couture collection. To be able to maintain freshness with a sense of whimsy while remaining true to the original form has been Scognamiglio’s more enduring achievement.