The Irrefutable Consistency of Haney

by Samantha Mitten

Mary Alice Haney does not suffer from variability in vision. From day one her label has been a celebration of the female form and the visual joy it brings. Holding on to that vision Haney's AW18 collection brings heavy hitters with ease and poise. From rhinestone studded separates to the high-slit gowns, the delectable minidresses provide wardrobe for a woman who is comfortable with who she is. 

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Naeem Khan's Summer in the Winter

by Abigail Smith-Rowe

Naeem Khan is a staple when it comes to bridal wear. As he expands his deft touches to the ever evolving market of in-between clothes, he is acutely aware of the needs of his jet-setting clients. This 2019 collection is an homage to that clientele who are on the move, who will be attending weddings and engagements during the summer at greek islands and south african coasts. The color palette of the clothes are wildly satisfying and they are easily portable unlike a wedding dress. Naeem’s work here is relatively more minimalist in terms of silhouettes and lines. His bread and butter remains tie-ins and convertible pantsuits yet this collection touches all aspect of that elusive summer that will come eventually.

Giving into Givenchy

By Linda Bezos

Givenchy knows what it is doing. This pre-fall collection is all about lines and details. From printed suits to chic' coats the entire collection is set up to convey the confidence of a brand that is at it's creative best. Multi-colored skirts and brooding sunglasses are complemented by delicate long coats whimsical belts. It is a collection meant for people who already know what they like and have no problem acquiring them. 

Tailored for the Streets by Armani

by Oksana Petrova

The highs and lows of streetwear are well documented. But what has been a consistent force within styling of streetwear is the notion of deconstruction. But that tide is slowly turning and streetwear is becoming more tailored, more structured. And Armani has noticed this wind of change. This pre-fall collection is an acknowledgment of that shift. A push towards a more dynamic, colorful collection with the foundation of a structured silhouettes is the primary thing to take in here from this exquisite collection. Armani is not reinventing itself, it is just becoming more relevant.

Kimonos and Metalworks of Fendi

by Lotus Ladegaard

With just a few years short of 100 years in the world of fashion, it is no surprise that the Italian house of fashion is a household name and a staple in its industry. Led by the fifth generation Fendi sisters, Fendi has continuously designed Led successfully through generations by the Fendi Family, the brand has established itself as a luxury brand with a focus on especially fur and leather pieces. In 1965 Karl Lagerfeld joined the company and became the Creative Director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, the latter was launched in 1977.

For Prefall, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have found inspiration in ironwork and kimonos. The mix might have an odd ring to it, nevertheless, the two insightful designers have created an interesting and bold collection. The collection is intriguing and exciting with plenty of references to artwork on iron gates and vintage men’s kimonos, some more literal than others.

The color palette is far from subtle although at first glance it might seem somewhat subdued. The bold prints and severe tailoring transfers really well at a second glance and it makes quite the impact. As always with Fendi, the tailoring and finishing are absolutely exquisite and impeccable. The contrast between the masculine, sharp silhouettes and the ornamentation and frills made it a very Fendi-esque collection.

Many of the suits and coats were elongated creating an interesting silhouette and featured quirky embellishments such as oddly shaped lapels and oversized pockets. Coats were often styled with aetherial pleaded skirts or very feminine pieces.

From suits and fur coats to dresses and skirts, the Fendi Prefall 2019 collection offered it all with several standout pieces such as the dress with cut-out sleeves in an earthy brown tone and the silk printed dress with kimono sleeves just to mention a few.

Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have yet again created a beautiful and very fashion forward collection that will appeal not only to their loyal followers but to women around the world. It is exciting and nothing short of what is expected from the prestigious Italian fashion house.

Edeline Lee's Secret Garden

by Lydia Schaff

Edeline Lee ventured inward to find her zen wrapped in traditionalism of the east. Chaos and Clarity is the foundational structure of her new collection. It is hard to ignore the monastic tone of her collection as she imbued her aesthetics with solid palettes and dark floral jacquards which were a nod to the Garden of Eden. While employing technique draping and tassel trimmings that were reminiscent of Ayurvedic robes, she re-conceptualized the collection as a form of protection against the myriad upheaval of the outside world. It is a collection deeply rooted in the sophistication of a designer who embraces her introvert-ness as a form of armor. 

Isabel Marant and the Pursuit of Le Chic'

by Olivia Moreau

Isabel Marant is the ultimate Parisian. Her sense of aesthetics is quintessentially French and overwhelming in its cool factor.  From wrap jackets and oversize coats, the silhouettes are all relaxed yet the underlying sense of structure, the method to the chaos is evident with each passing formation. Marant's style has driven the now fabled Parisian chic streetwear long before the oversaturated space of street style. And despite many pretenders, no one does the French high streets better than Isabel Marant. 

Rodebjar and the Long Lost Italian Summer

by Olivia Moreau

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is either bored of the Swedish functionality and sleek lines or is a big fan of the Amalfi coast. Whatever it is, it works for her as she constructed a set of clothes that are ethereal and light, loose and delicate in their silhouettes conjuring up nothing Swedish apart from the name. Nautical White to shades of prints in colored maze gives the collection the necessary 'gone fishing' vibe and provides a visual getaway for not only in Sweden suffering from the scandi-weather, but also in new york which is suffering from the cold sweet tooth of winter. This is escapism at it's most loose and finest.   

The Soft Whispers of Marchesa

by Olivia Moreau

Marchesa has always been ethereal, and full of feminine glory. This collection is no different and we are thankful for that. The delicate dance between ruffles and sheer, the love affair between tone and lines are all present in Marchesa’s Spring collection. The torrent of negative attention that almost sunk the brand seems like a distant memory or may be it is just an escape from the realities that still await Marchesa. It is still a polished and quietly confident collection that knows its limits and its appeal.

The Joy of Olivier Rousteing w/ Balmain

by Lotus Ladegaard

Balmain has been around since 1946 and after years of static repetition new life has been infused into the traditional fashion house with the introduction of Olivier Rousteing as Creative Director. He has continuously managed to make an impact with both editors and fashionistas alike. He creates collections with a fresh take on French Couture yet remaining very Balmain.

Considering Olivier Rousteing’s recent posts on Instagram, the Prefall 2019 collection is hardly a major surprise, but the crafty designer knows how to work the social media to his advantage and the early spoilers set the Prefall collection perfectly. From Asian architecture to bold avant-garde couture and hints of Fantasia, the new collection is uniquely Olivier's own.

The Balmain Prefall 2019 collection is full of bold prints and strong silhouettes. It has a fresh and delightful feel about is and will undoubtedly excite the world of fashion. From spiked shoulders to exaggerated and avant-garde silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing knows how to deliver to the loyal Balmain followers as well as draw new in.

Several pieces stood out and left an impression like the black jackets with white lapels and oversized cuffs styled with loose yet sexy stonewashed jeans. The printed dress with an almost bare torso was another stand-out. The collection also offered several off-the-shoulder pieces like the embroidered dress with exaggerated skirt and bodice and the black and white dress with oversized sleeves which also stood out and made an impact.

As always, Olivier Rousteing has an eye for the finishing and delivered an impeccably tailored collection that is even more impressive when you take a second look at all the details and styling.

Balmain’s Prefall 2019 collection is another home-run from the exciting designer.

Gucci and the Undying Levity of Standing Out

by Lydia Tan

Gucci is to street fashion is what Google is to search engines. There are many before it, there are many after it, but the name always reigns supreme. This look-book shot by director and photographer Harmony Korine in the archaeological parks of Pompeii and Herculaneum, has that element of gravitas attached to it. The clothes are what you would expect from Alessandro Michele’s team and they deliver being an experience by themselves, each styling telling a different story. Whether or not you buy into that element of fantastic is an individual choice as some would find these narratives to be to out there, but then again, not everything is for everyone. Gucci’s appeal is like a peacock, not every garden needs one, but some gardens prefer them. Caftans, brocades and printed suits are all stable by now, and the stories they tell is of confidence and clarity of vision. Gucci stands out because it is its sole goal.

Burberry's Generational Inclusivity with Riccardo Tisci

by Lana Hamid

Burberry has always been the favorite of traditionalists. Before Riccardo Tisci’s arrival it was a brand that was most comfortable within the realm of uptight sophistication and occasional burst of legacy obsession. To call Burberry (pre-Tisci) boring would have been a bit harsh but accurate. That label is wearing off with each collection Tisci is producing. In his second full collection Tisci takes on the generational divide and bridges them with traditional and non-traditiional silhouettes, clever infusion of color and above all an imposing collection of the rebirth of Burberry 2.0. The rigidity is now complemented by fluidity, the beige icons are complement by blue and red. And the traditionalists and the avant-garde-ists are both equally represented as a happy medium. Re-inventing Burberry is harder than it looks but the ease to which Tisci has gone about dismantling the cobwebs of comfort into a frenzy of dynamism is worth admiring, applauding and above replicating.

The Unveiling of Jonathan Cohen

by Sylvia Stoss

It is almost a surprise to find out that Jonathan Cohen has never shown during NYFW. In his first outing on the famed but subdued platform, Jonathan did what he does best...mesmerize his clientele with outright levity. From lean dresses with botanical prints to structured mini in a rainbow all came with the customary JC look. The raw edges, the oversized sleeves are always there but JC's work has evolved into truly encapsulating the many colorful facets of being a modern woman in these times. As almost a countermeasure to negative colors JC poured all the colors of the spectrum into his collection and our eyes and our sense of style are thankful for it. 

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

Carolina Herrera's Philadelphia Story

by Lucie Niemans

Spring may very well be Carolina Herrera's favorite time of the year as it exudes the same energy CH brings to the cutting board. Wes Gordon's first spring bridal collection is svelte and efficient. The beauty of those strong lines and evocative silhouettes are just part and parcel of a collection that is brimming with youthful nostalgia and traditionalism. Minimalism with something added to it almost like an heirloom is the foundational aesthetics of this collection. Functionality wrapped in a nice little bow of excellence is what makes this collection a favorite of the season. 

Diane von Furstenberg's Pioneer Women

by Olivia Moreau

Diane von Furstenberg's spring collection is a homage to a different kind of pioneer women than the wild west. It is more of a concept as opposed to an historical repeat. The women trailblazer are the pioneer women in DVF's eyes. And this homage is partly based on what they would wear now and partly based on the 'homely' and humble aspect of life as a woman. It is a product of DVF's inherent and uncanny ability to mix cultural shifts into traditionalism. From the softened color palette to outright mixture of prints, this collection stands out. 

Viktor & Rolf's Frosted Fairytales

by Linda Bezos

Viktor & Rolf's Fall ’18, the duo’s third bridal collection was soaked and frosted into strong whites and nothing more. Ivory ball gowns with giant cascading bows along the skirt complemented by empire-waist minidresses and jumpsuits made the collection a modern take on a fairytale wedding. From the extravagance to minimalism, this collection bore what is foundationally V&R...a sense of intrigue, sexiness and uber feminity. 

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena reach.