Naeem Khan and the Forces of Transformation

by Andrea Hanson

Naeem Khan's work is transformative. While that may seem like a philosophical statement, it is also a literal one when it comes to his bridal wear. A multitude of silhouettes in one single dress that can go from the wedding aisle to dance floor to morning brunch is something Naeem has been perfecting for the last few seasons and it is paying rich dividends. With each passing collection, Naeem is only making wonderfully intricate gowns but also removing a lot of stress from the bride by giving them multipurpose dresses and suits. Now you can truly go bonkers over your flower arrangements as the Naeem got you covered when it comes to your wedding dress.

Monique Lhuillier and the Near Eastern Charm

by Lotus Ladegaard

The Filipino-American designer Monique Lhuillier entered the world of fashion with her very own wedding, for which she created dresses for her family and bridal party. She quickly became known for her eye for sophisticated luxury, and gained a large celebrity following. Over the years, she has expanded her eponymous brand, which today include ready-to-wear, formal wear, bridesmaids and lifestyle items such as linens, tableware, fine paper and home fragrances.

For Fall 2019, Monique Lhuillier presented a collection packed with her signature silhouettes embellished with metallic, three-dimensional and jewel elements as well as florals in an equally sophisticated colour palette of blush, champagne and rose gold. The collection also featured capes, jackets and streamers which give it an overall vintage feel. Every dress and gown tell a story of its own, and thus every piece stands out.

The A-line dress in printed silk organza with matching floral veil as well as the drop-waist with rose-gold and wrapped chiffon embellishments were exquisite with beautiful finishing. The ballgowns were romantic and feminine, for the more adventurous bride, Monique Lhuillier also included one with adorable colourful floral embellishments. For the darker colder fall, the designer also added several options that can be worn before, during and after the actual ceremony such as a fur cape and a tulle jacket along with streamers.

Monique Lhuillier, yet again, proved she knows what brides want and are looking for. Regardless of other trends, she stays true to her designs and manages to incorporate these into her collection. The Bridal Fall 2019 collection is another home-run.

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection. 

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

Playing Duro Olowu's Zora Neale Hurston on Repeat

by Lotus Ladegaard

Nigerian-born and London-based designer Duro Olowu has consistently pushed the envelope with his innovative combination of patterns and textiles, drawing on inspiration from his international background. His pieces often feature inspiration from all over the world along with his Nigerian roots. Duro Olowu knows textiles and how to create intriguing silhouettes and designs with an impact.

Over the years, he has gained a cult following which was partially a product generated by his high-waisted patchwork skirt that was hailed as the dress of the year by both British and American Vogue. And in 2005, he was named the New Designer of the Year at London Fashion Week, even without having a catwalk show that season.

For Spring 19, Duro Olowu presented a colorful and bold collection with plenty of his African influences and his signature prints, floral and polka dots that is bound to excite fashion editors around the globe as well as win over new fans and followers.

The blue floral dress in layered chiffon was exquisite and felt easy, yet glamorous. The green 1930’ies inspired dress was another example of dresses that felt easy yet had plenty of classic and elegant flair. Pieces with mixed prints are always a hit with Duro Olowu’s followers and many of them are beautiful and intriguing. They will certainly have an impact on any occasion.

More subtle pieces like silver blouses, a black dress with mixed textiles and suiting was also featured in the collection. The collection also followed suit on the very trendy stripes, which Duro Olowu has managed to mix with other prints and other stripes in a very interesting way. The red, black and white striped suit with a long coat and Asian collar was beautifully tailored and could easily be worn separately with other pieces.

Duro Olowu keeps on delivering and we keep on loving it. 

 

Diane von Furstenberg's Pioneer Women

by Olivia Moreau

Diane von Furstenberg's spring collection is a homage to a different kind of pioneer women than the wild west. It is more of a concept as opposed to an historical repeat. The women trailblazer are the pioneer women in DVF's eyes. And this homage is partly based on what they would wear now and partly based on the 'homely' and humble aspect of life as a woman. It is a product of DVF's inherent and uncanny ability to mix cultural shifts into traditionalism. From the softened color palette to outright mixture of prints, this collection stands out. 

Love in Lisbon with Galia Lahav

By Andrea Arjento

Galia Lahav’s head designer Sharon Sever took on Lisbon at it’s most clear and most enigmatic and unfurled a set of gowns worthy for a torrid love affair that is their inspiration. While it may seem counter-intuitive to have bridal gowns as an homage to torrid love affairs on paper, the reality is all love affairs worth writing about has a certain element of torrid-ness to it. And Sharon is able to weave that element of variability into a fairytale that looks wonderfully complex and elegant. This specific collection has all the signature Galia Lahav details but in many ways, it is also the most realistic exploration of the fairytales we tell ourselves. And for that, we are in love with Galia Lahav's Lisbon collection.

This Bohemian Wedding with Temperley London

by Lotus Ladegaard

Temperley London was established in 2000 by designer Alice Temperley and her partner Lars von Benningsen and quickly became known for its focus on luxurious fabrics and exquisite hand finishing. Until 2011, Temperley London showed at both New York Fashion Week as well as London Fashion Week, however, in recent years Temperley London collections have been presented via multimedia installations as opposed to the traditional catwalk shows.

Temperley London Bridal has always had a bohemian- and vintage-inspired aesthetics, it is playful and feminine with plenty of embellishments and frills. For Fall 2018, ten exquisite gowns inspired by the jazz-age were presented. It will undoubtedly speak to her loyal followers as well as playful, fun-loving brides around the globe.

The color palette was interesting and offered traditional white and ivory, but also blush and very delicate pink. As always, Alice Temperley has an eye for embellishments and know exactly how much to use and when to stop. The collection offered everything from an open back tulle gown with sequins to off-the-shoulder gown embellished with pink crystals and also included a hearts and flowers embellished dress as well as gowns for the party-loving bride.

Temperley London’s Bridal Fall 2019 collection is bound to excite her followers, fashionistas and fashion editors alike. It is filled with gowns that will make any bride stand out, and gowns that will speak to many brides.

Vera Wang's Un-Traditionalism

by Anita Monroe

Purists be damned…Vera Wang is pushing the envelope in directions in bridal wear we haven’t seen in a century. Despite taking her inspiration from the Sun King, the avant-garde aesthetics she has been pushing is relentless, modern and above all entirely her own. Unlike the rest of the bridal market, Vera Wang’s work has no derivatives but her own. And this collection is an extension of her previous collection and you can see the grand mosaic of her work slowly building up to a crescendo. It is light, it is forward thinking and above all it is Vera Wang.

The Polity of Petar Petrov

by Lotus Ladegaard

Ukrainian-born designer Petar Petrov started his career in Men’s Wear, however, he quickly began designing for Austrian socialites and sophisticated women, and the many formal events the Austrian capital has to offer. In 2009, he founded his eponymous label focussing on creating timeless pieces with a feminine silhouette and impeccable tailoring. He studied fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under Raf Simons and has also enjoyed tutoring from the design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who is behind the brand Viktor & Rolf. He has built his brand on word to mouth, shooting most of his collection at his very own Viennese apartment. He has accomplished quite the popularity by using just influencers and having the right clientele. Whether or not that strategy is sustainable is anyone's guess but so far he has made the right decisions at the right time. 

For Resort 2019, Petar Petrov presented a rather androgynous collection filled with tailored dresses and suiting. The colour palette was fairly simple and featured classic black and white along with a few colours both subtle and bold and a variety of prints. The silhouettes were tailored and androgynous with a feminine flair. The collection as a whole is interesting and features some stand-out pieces that is bound to excite women looking for versatile pieces. 

His eye for tailoring truly shines when it comes to suiting, and while some of the silhouettes are somewhat androgynous, he still manages to highlight and accent the female curves. The dresses are flowy, and one can almost imagine their movement, although many are starting to expect a real show where the dresses truly come to life from the Bulgarian raised designer. 

The polka-dotted maxi dress in black and white is exquisite, easy-to-wear and easy to imagine a socialite wearing at their preferred resort. The bold orange snake-printed dress was another standout and will work well for many occasions. 

The many high-waisted trousers with incorporated belts were also exquisite and felt contemporary and classy. The black suit with oversized shirt also stood out among the suiting pieces as well as the pink suit with a lighter tone shirt with long sass from the neckline. 

Overall, Petar Petrov delivered a promising Resort 2019 collection that will take his followers by storm and might win over new ones.
 

The Soft Whispers of Marchesa

by Olivia Moreau

Marchesa has always been ethereal, and full of feminine glory. This collection is no different and we are thankful for that. The delicate dance between ruffles and sheer, the love affair between tone and lines are all present in Marchesa’s Spring collection. The torrent of negative attention that almost sunk the brand seems like a distant memory or may be it is just an escape from the realities that still await Marchesa. It is still a polished and quietly confident collection that knows its limits and its appeal.

Tailoring 101 with Victoria Beckham

by Lotus Ladegaard

Victoria Beckham has successfully transitioned from a novelty pop star in the world of fashion into a respected designer, who’s designs has a widespread appeal and is ever evolving. Using herself as an inspiration, she has moved from very fitted pieces to sporting a more relaxed style with loose bodices and oversized pieces. She launched her brand in ten years ago and it has since become a fixture at the prestigious New York Fashion Week. Victoria Beckham favours the wearable and relatable rather than showpieces, which her collections reflect.

For her Resort 2019, Victoria Beckham has returned to the very tailored and feminine pieces. The colour palette ranged from classic black, white and red to coloured prints and knits along with camouflage and beige tones. The oversized and loose pieces have been replaced with feminine, fitted and fierce dresses, suits and outerwear that reflect the designer’s own evolving in taste. It is easy to see Victoria Beckham and her story in this collection that embraces colour, prints and a little bit of rock’n’roll. 

The little pink dress mimicking a two-piece with white and pink shirt and a pink fitted skirt stood out with tons of editorial appeal along with being edgy and fierce. Several of the black looks all stood out such as the little fitted black tuxedo dress and the long A-line dress with brown and it would be easy to imagine the designer in any of these walking the red carpet. The printed pieces felt contemporary, youthful and fun and will undoubtedly win over a younger crowd.

Victoria Beckham presented another interesting and commercially viable Resort Collection and certainly made for a very tasty appetizer ahead of her show in September in London.
 

The Unveiling of Jonathan Cohen

by Sylvia Stoss

It is almost a surprise to find out that Jonathan Cohen has never shown during NYFW. In his first outing on the famed but subdued platform, Jonathan did what he does best...mesmerize his clientele with outright levity. From lean dresses with botanical prints to structured mini in a rainbow all came with the customary JC look. The raw edges, the oversized sleeves are always there but JC's work has evolved into truly encapsulating the many colorful facets of being a modern woman in these times. As almost a countermeasure to negative colors JC poured all the colors of the spectrum into his collection and our eyes and our sense of style are thankful for it. 

Miami Vice with Fausto Puglisi

by Sylvia Stoss

Fausto Puglisi has many inspirations but his work remains his own. Despite his obsession with Versace, he has carved out a niche of his own in this unforgiving market. Feminine, cheeky and above all, uncompromising in its aesthetics Puglisi’s collection bores the quality of a designer completely comfortable in his skin. Oozing with sex and a sense of Miami whimsy embroidered with palm trees and color blocks, Puglisi's collection is just another piece of a masterpiece Fausto is building.


Caught Red Handed with Red Valentino SS19

by Bianca Hill

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli found his inspiration in the undying spirit of the Mexican women revolutionaries in his latest collection for a brand that has always championed that cause with utter ease and great aesthetics. The contrast of women revolutionaries with the soft edge of femininity playing intricately with the roughness of their existence is fully realized in this collection. It is wild and subtle at the same time, with movements draped into each piece. There's a restlessness to it and there's a lot of red to it as well. It is a proper Valentino joint. 

The Rising of Wunderkind

by Lydia Schaff

Wolfgang Joop's Wunderkind has become a german heavy hitter within the industry. With the introduction of the "Berlin spirit" it has slowly but surely moved toward a more cohesive minimalist structure that appeals to the german market. Wunderkind has become sort of a platform as opposed to just a design label for Joop's vision of Berlin as he collaborates with talents all across the creative field. Whether or not this Hugo Boss meets Celine' aesthetics is a sure fire way to consumer's hearts is yet to be tested, but if the current collection is any indication of things to come, then we are seeing a foundation being built for a very successful reboot. 

Jill Sander and the Second Coming of Ultra-Cool

by Linda Bezos 

Jill Sander's design team of Luke and Lucie Meier reconceptualizes the Jill Sander ethos through the aesthetic of polish and symmetry. The resort collection is full of personal fashion with grand ideas. Each individual piece fits nicely into the grand vision of the designers who instill radical and edgy elements to even the most mundane objects. Jill Sander's resort collection is full of grace, glory and outright rebellion but with an understated desire to fit in. It is a collection worth swooning over.    

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena reach. 

Valentino's Retro Futurism

by Linda Bezos

Pierpaolo Piccioli loves the street. Street styles from New York to Rome are his muses. Valentino's foray into its Resort collection is a canvas of eclecticism. It is filled with broody bourgeoise charm of 70's Rome. Art Deco to Baroque styles all invade the visual exploration of Piccioli's work. It is a collection brimming with cool and 'devil may care' sort of clarity. And by incorporating classic Valentino logos almost as a gonzo method, he foretells a future where classic brands like Valentino evolves to move forward, evolves to survive and prosper. Piccioli is a master at predicting where the market is heading and this surely is one of his more astute and nuanced collection within that realm of retro-futurism.