Tailored for the Streets by Armani

by Oksana Petrova

The highs and lows of streetwear are well documented. But what has been a consistent force within styling of streetwear is the notion of deconstruction. But that tide is slowly turning and streetwear is becoming more tailored, more structured. And Armani has noticed this wind of change. This pre-fall collection is an acknowledgment of that shift. A push towards a more dynamic, colorful collection with the foundation of a structured silhouettes is the primary thing to take in here from this exquisite collection. Armani is not reinventing itself, it is just becoming more relevant.

The Joy of Olivier Rousteing w/ Balmain

by Lotus Ladegaard

Balmain has been around since 1946 and after years of static repetition new life has been infused into the traditional fashion house with the introduction of Olivier Rousteing as Creative Director. He has continuously managed to make an impact with both editors and fashionistas alike. He creates collections with a fresh take on French Couture yet remaining very Balmain.

Considering Olivier Rousteing’s recent posts on Instagram, the Prefall 2019 collection is hardly a major surprise, but the crafty designer knows how to work the social media to his advantage and the early spoilers set the Prefall collection perfectly. From Asian architecture to bold avant-garde couture and hints of Fantasia, the new collection is uniquely Olivier's own.

The Balmain Prefall 2019 collection is full of bold prints and strong silhouettes. It has a fresh and delightful feel about is and will undoubtedly excite the world of fashion. From spiked shoulders to exaggerated and avant-garde silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing knows how to deliver to the loyal Balmain followers as well as draw new in.

Several pieces stood out and left an impression like the black jackets with white lapels and oversized cuffs styled with loose yet sexy stonewashed jeans. The printed dress with an almost bare torso was another stand-out. The collection also offered several off-the-shoulder pieces like the embroidered dress with exaggerated skirt and bodice and the black and white dress with oversized sleeves which also stood out and made an impact.

As always, Olivier Rousteing has an eye for the finishing and delivered an impeccably tailored collection that is even more impressive when you take a second look at all the details and styling.

Balmain’s Prefall 2019 collection is another home-run from the exciting designer.

Carolina Herrera's Philadelphia Story

by Lucie Niemans

Spring may very well be Carolina Herrera's favorite time of the year as it exudes the same energy CH brings to the cutting board. Wes Gordon's first spring bridal collection is svelte and efficient. The beauty of those strong lines and evocative silhouettes are just part and parcel of a collection that is brimming with youthful nostalgia and traditionalism. Minimalism with something added to it almost like an heirloom is the foundational aesthetics of this collection. Functionality wrapped in a nice little bow of excellence is what makes this collection a favorite of the season. 

The Soft Whispers of Marchesa

by Olivia Moreau

Marchesa has always been ethereal, and full of feminine glory. This collection is no different and we are thankful for that. The delicate dance between ruffles and sheer, the love affair between tone and lines are all present in Marchesa’s Spring collection. The torrent of negative attention that almost sunk the brand seems like a distant memory or may be it is just an escape from the realities that still await Marchesa. It is still a polished and quietly confident collection that knows its limits and its appeal.

Diane von Furstenberg's Pioneer Women

by Olivia Moreau

Diane von Furstenberg's spring collection is a homage to a different kind of pioneer women than the wild west. It is more of a concept as opposed to an historical repeat. The women trailblazer are the pioneer women in DVF's eyes. And this homage is partly based on what they would wear now and partly based on the 'homely' and humble aspect of life as a woman. It is a product of DVF's inherent and uncanny ability to mix cultural shifts into traditionalism. From the softened color palette to outright mixture of prints, this collection stands out. 

Burberry's Generational Inclusivity with Riccardo Tisci

by Lana Hamid

Burberry has always been the favorite of traditionalists. Before Riccardo Tisci’s arrival it was a brand that was most comfortable within the realm of uptight sophistication and occasional burst of legacy obsession. To call Burberry (pre-Tisci) boring would have been a bit harsh but accurate. That label is wearing off with each collection Tisci is producing. In his second full collection Tisci takes on the generational divide and bridges them with traditional and non-traditiional silhouettes, clever infusion of color and above all an imposing collection of the rebirth of Burberry 2.0. The rigidity is now complemented by fluidity, the beige icons are complement by blue and red. And the traditionalists and the avant-garde-ists are both equally represented as a happy medium. Re-inventing Burberry is harder than it looks but the ease to which Tisci has gone about dismantling the cobwebs of comfort into a frenzy of dynamism is worth admiring, applauding and above replicating.

Viktor & Rolf's Frosted Fairytales

by Linda Bezos

Viktor & Rolf's Fall ’18, the duo’s third bridal collection was soaked and frosted into strong whites and nothing more. Ivory ball gowns with giant cascading bows along the skirt complemented by empire-waist minidresses and jumpsuits made the collection a modern take on a fairytale wedding. From the extravagance to minimalism, this collection bore what is foundationally V&R...a sense of intrigue, sexiness and uber feminity. 

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena reach. 

The Whimsical Blues of Erdem

by Lotus Ladegaard

Established in 2005, Erdem has become synonymous with experimental textiles, vibrant prints, versatile yet powerful femininity that speaks to a variety of women. Behind the brand also known for its detailed craftmanship is Turkish Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, who studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art and interned with Vivienne Westwood. Over the years, the talented designer has received many awards and accolades and gained a wide celebrity following. 

Drawing on inspiration from the work of photographers Diana Arbus and William Eggleston, Erdem has created an interesting and bold Resort collection that will charm his fans and intrigue new ones. Bold floral prints, dramatic collars, and vintage elbow-length gloves all culminated in several stand-out looks with tons of editorial appeal. 

Styled with unusual, at times even funny, hats, calf-length stockings and odd loafers, some looks seemed to clash more than match yet still somehow worked together. The colour palette was busy with several floral prints from the darker and dustier tones such as navy blue, black and grey to lighter tones such as pink, white and metallic silver. The Victorian and pipe collars stood out and certainly made a focal point borderlining the avant-garde yet remaining very Erdem-esque. The Turkish and Canadian designer had also played with the silhouettes almost distorting them to mimic a dress that had its lining pulled out without actually distorting them. 

Among the stand-out looks were a couple of sheer chiffon dresses in silver and navy blue with white dots styled with a sass at the waist tied in a bow as well as a pink floral coat with pleting at the back. Many of the floral dresses felt romantic and feminine with a vintage feel that undoubtedly will do well with many fashionistas around the globe. 

Erdem has created a very intriguing Resort 2019 collection with tons of editorial appeal that will only cement him further into the world of fashion.
 

The Irrefutable Consistency of Haney

by Samantha Mitten

Mary Alice Haney does not suffer from variability in vision. From day one her label has been a celebration of the female form and the visual joy it brings. Holding on to that vision Haney's AW18 collection brings heavy hitters with ease and poise. From rhinestone studded separates to the high-slit gowns, the delectable minidresses provide wardrobe for a woman who is comfortable with who she is. 

Naeem Khan and the Forces of Transformation

by Andrea Hanson

Naeem Khan's work is transformative. While that may seem like a philosophical statement, it is also a literal one when it comes to his bridal wear. A multitude of silhouettes in one single dress that can go from the wedding aisle to dance floor to morning brunch is something Naeem has been perfecting for the last few seasons and it is paying rich dividends. With each passing collection, Naeem is only making wonderfully intricate gowns but also removing a lot of stress from the bride by giving them multipurpose dresses and suits. Now you can truly go bonkers over your flower arrangements as the Naeem got you covered when it comes to your wedding dress.

Monique Lhuillier and the Near Eastern Charm

by Lotus Ladegaard

The Filipino-American designer Monique Lhuillier entered the world of fashion with her very own wedding, for which she created dresses for her family and bridal party. She quickly became known for her eye for sophisticated luxury, and gained a large celebrity following. Over the years, she has expanded her eponymous brand, which today include ready-to-wear, formal wear, bridesmaids and lifestyle items such as linens, tableware, fine paper and home fragrances.

For Fall 2019, Monique Lhuillier presented a collection packed with her signature silhouettes embellished with metallic, three-dimensional and jewel elements as well as florals in an equally sophisticated colour palette of blush, champagne and rose gold. The collection also featured capes, jackets and streamers which give it an overall vintage feel. Every dress and gown tell a story of its own, and thus every piece stands out.

The A-line dress in printed silk organza with matching floral veil as well as the drop-waist with rose-gold and wrapped chiffon embellishments were exquisite with beautiful finishing. The ballgowns were romantic and feminine, for the more adventurous bride, Monique Lhuillier also included one with adorable colourful floral embellishments. For the darker colder fall, the designer also added several options that can be worn before, during and after the actual ceremony such as a fur cape and a tulle jacket along with streamers.

Monique Lhuillier, yet again, proved she knows what brides want and are looking for. Regardless of other trends, she stays true to her designs and manages to incorporate these into her collection. The Bridal Fall 2019 collection is another home-run.

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection. 

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

Playing Duro Olowu's Zora Neale Hurston on Repeat

by Lotus Ladegaard

Nigerian-born and London-based designer Duro Olowu has consistently pushed the envelope with his innovative combination of patterns and textiles, drawing on inspiration from his international background. His pieces often feature inspiration from all over the world along with his Nigerian roots. Duro Olowu knows textiles and how to create intriguing silhouettes and designs with an impact.

Over the years, he has gained a cult following which was partially a product generated by his high-waisted patchwork skirt that was hailed as the dress of the year by both British and American Vogue. And in 2005, he was named the New Designer of the Year at London Fashion Week, even without having a catwalk show that season.

For Spring 19, Duro Olowu presented a colorful and bold collection with plenty of his African influences and his signature prints, floral and polka dots that is bound to excite fashion editors around the globe as well as win over new fans and followers.

The blue floral dress in layered chiffon was exquisite and felt easy, yet glamorous. The green 1930’ies inspired dress was another example of dresses that felt easy yet had plenty of classic and elegant flair. Pieces with mixed prints are always a hit with Duro Olowu’s followers and many of them are beautiful and intriguing. They will certainly have an impact on any occasion.

More subtle pieces like silver blouses, a black dress with mixed textiles and suiting was also featured in the collection. The collection also followed suit on the very trendy stripes, which Duro Olowu has managed to mix with other prints and other stripes in a very interesting way. The red, black and white striped suit with a long coat and Asian collar was beautifully tailored and could easily be worn separately with other pieces.

Duro Olowu keeps on delivering and we keep on loving it. 

 

Love in Lisbon with Galia Lahav

By Andrea Arjento

Galia Lahav’s head designer Sharon Sever took on Lisbon at it’s most clear and most enigmatic and unfurled a set of gowns worthy for a torrid love affair that is their inspiration. While it may seem counter-intuitive to have bridal gowns as an homage to torrid love affairs on paper, the reality is all love affairs worth writing about has a certain element of torrid-ness to it. And Sharon is able to weave that element of variability into a fairytale that looks wonderfully complex and elegant. This specific collection has all the signature Galia Lahav details but in many ways, it is also the most realistic exploration of the fairytales we tell ourselves. And for that, we are in love with Galia Lahav's Lisbon collection.

This Bohemian Wedding with Temperley London

by Lotus Ladegaard

Temperley London was established in 2000 by designer Alice Temperley and her partner Lars von Benningsen and quickly became known for its focus on luxurious fabrics and exquisite hand finishing. Until 2011, Temperley London showed at both New York Fashion Week as well as London Fashion Week, however, in recent years Temperley London collections have been presented via multimedia installations as opposed to the traditional catwalk shows.

Temperley London Bridal has always had a bohemian- and vintage-inspired aesthetics, it is playful and feminine with plenty of embellishments and frills. For Fall 2018, ten exquisite gowns inspired by the jazz-age were presented. It will undoubtedly speak to her loyal followers as well as playful, fun-loving brides around the globe.

The color palette was interesting and offered traditional white and ivory, but also blush and very delicate pink. As always, Alice Temperley has an eye for embellishments and know exactly how much to use and when to stop. The collection offered everything from an open back tulle gown with sequins to off-the-shoulder gown embellished with pink crystals and also included a hearts and flowers embellished dress as well as gowns for the party-loving bride.

Temperley London’s Bridal Fall 2019 collection is bound to excite her followers, fashionistas and fashion editors alike. It is filled with gowns that will make any bride stand out, and gowns that will speak to many brides.

Vera Wang's Un-Traditionalism

by Anita Monroe

Purists be damned…Vera Wang is pushing the envelope in directions in bridal wear we haven’t seen in a century. Despite taking her inspiration from the Sun King, the avant-garde aesthetics she has been pushing is relentless, modern and above all entirely her own. Unlike the rest of the bridal market, Vera Wang’s work has no derivatives but her own. And this collection is an extension of her previous collection and you can see the grand mosaic of her work slowly building up to a crescendo. It is light, it is forward thinking and above all it is Vera Wang.

The Polity of Petar Petrov

by Lotus Ladegaard

Ukrainian-born designer Petar Petrov started his career in Men’s Wear, however, he quickly began designing for Austrian socialites and sophisticated women, and the many formal events the Austrian capital has to offer. In 2009, he founded his eponymous label focussing on creating timeless pieces with a feminine silhouette and impeccable tailoring. He studied fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under Raf Simons and has also enjoyed tutoring from the design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who is behind the brand Viktor & Rolf. He has built his brand on word to mouth, shooting most of his collection at his very own Viennese apartment. He has accomplished quite the popularity by using just influencers and having the right clientele. Whether or not that strategy is sustainable is anyone's guess but so far he has made the right decisions at the right time. 

For Resort 2019, Petar Petrov presented a rather androgynous collection filled with tailored dresses and suiting. The colour palette was fairly simple and featured classic black and white along with a few colours both subtle and bold and a variety of prints. The silhouettes were tailored and androgynous with a feminine flair. The collection as a whole is interesting and features some stand-out pieces that is bound to excite women looking for versatile pieces. 

His eye for tailoring truly shines when it comes to suiting, and while some of the silhouettes are somewhat androgynous, he still manages to highlight and accent the female curves. The dresses are flowy, and one can almost imagine their movement, although many are starting to expect a real show where the dresses truly come to life from the Bulgarian raised designer. 

The polka-dotted maxi dress in black and white is exquisite, easy-to-wear and easy to imagine a socialite wearing at their preferred resort. The bold orange snake-printed dress was another standout and will work well for many occasions. 

The many high-waisted trousers with incorporated belts were also exquisite and felt contemporary and classy. The black suit with oversized shirt also stood out among the suiting pieces as well as the pink suit with a lighter tone shirt with long sass from the neckline. 

Overall, Petar Petrov delivered a promising Resort 2019 collection that will take his followers by storm and might win over new ones.