Tory Burch Sports the Sports

By Olivia Moreau

Tory Burch Sport is what you would expect it to be... sporty. But just like every aspect of Tory's work it has an underlying layer that is quintessentially hip, quintessentially Tory. Mix and Match stripes to puffy jackets add a sense of streetstyle to Tory's already expansive work.  The bold checked version of tights along with exercise heavy gears are all part of a collection that is going to be a commercial win for Tory Burch. 

Jill Sander and the Second Coming of Ultra-Cool

by Linda Bezos 

Jill Sander's design team of Luke and Lucie Meier reconceptualizes the Jill Sander ethos through the aesthetic of polish and symmetry. The resort collection is full of personal fashion with grand ideas. Each individual piece fits nicely into the grand vision of the designers who instill radical and edgy elements to even the most mundane objects. Jill Sander's resort collection is full of grace, glory and outright rebellion but with an understated desire to fit in. It is a collection worth swooning over.    

The Whimsical Blues of Erdem

by Lotus Ladegaard

Established in 2005, Erdem has become synonymous with experimental textiles, vibrant prints, versatile yet powerful femininity that speaks to a variety of women. Behind the brand also known for its detailed craftmanship is Turkish Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, who studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art and interned with Vivienne Westwood. Over the years, the talented designer has received many awards and accolades and gained a wide celebrity following. 

Drawing on inspiration from the work of photographers Diana Arbus and William Eggleston, Erdem has created an interesting and bold Resort collection that will charm his fans and intrigue new ones. Bold floral prints, dramatic collars, and vintage elbow-length gloves all culminated in several stand-out looks with tons of editorial appeal. 

Styled with unusual, at times even funny, hats, calf-length stockings and odd loafers, some looks seemed to clash more than match yet still somehow worked together. The colour palette was busy with several floral prints from the darker and dustier tones such as navy blue, black and grey to lighter tones such as pink, white and metallic silver. The Victorian and pipe collars stood out and certainly made a focal point borderlining the avant-garde yet remaining very Erdem-esque. The Turkish and Canadian designer had also played with the silhouettes almost distorting them to mimic a dress that had its lining pulled out without actually distorting them. 

Among the stand-out looks were a couple of sheer chiffon dresses in silver and navy blue with white dots styled with a sass at the waist tied in a bow as well as a pink floral coat with pleting at the back. Many of the floral dresses felt romantic and feminine with a vintage feel that undoubtedly will do well with many fashionistas around the globe. 

Erdem has created a very intriguing Resort 2019 collection with tons of editorial appeal that will only cement him further into the world of fashion.
 

Carolina Herrera and the Levity of Color

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera suffered some personal tragedies this year and her ancestral homeland is in the midst of an economic crisis exasperated by a communist dictatorship. So it would be perfectly fine if her pre-fall collection came out in dark, broody colors. But that is not who she is and her collection is full of joy and vigor. She embraces happiness through silhouettes and the mix of foundational colors with strong embroidery. From rainbow stitches to floral embroidery that find inspiration from Flemish floral art, her collection lights up an otherwise gloomy year for a lot in the fashion industry. The materials carefully crafted with chiffon and georgette made the collection look more traditional yet youthful to the core. If happiness could wear a dress, it would surely walk into Carolina's atelier.  

The Unveiling of Jonathan Cohen

by Sylvia Stoss

It is almost a surprise to find out that Jonathan Cohen has never shown during NYFW. In his first outing on the famed but subdued platform, Jonathan did what he does best...mesmerize his clientele with outright levity. From lean dresses with botanical prints to structured mini in a rainbow all came with the customary JC look. The raw edges, the oversized sleeves are always there but JC's work has evolved into truly encapsulating the many colorful facets of being a modern woman in these times. As almost a countermeasure to negative colors JC poured all the colors of the spectrum into his collection and our eyes and our sense of style are thankful for it. 

Bally and the Mountains of Consistency

by Veronica Duffour

With the introduction of vintage Everest motif sweaters to the cowled colored shearlings, Bally finds its inspiration from the Alpine Peaks to the vast Swiss mountain ranges and produces a collection steeped in retro charm. Bally remains a brand that is polished and always well groomed, but never really going outside it’s comfort zones and while that may seem too static for some brands, Bally’s confidence in the aesthetics it propagates suggests a brand that likes to hold the line. And within that line is excellent stitching, carefully constructed narrative and a certain sense of posh comfort. Bally is what Bally has always been and for that reason Bally’s consistency is so admired.

Rodebjar and the Long Lost Italian Summer

by Olivia Moreau

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is either bored of the Swedish functionality and sleek lines or is a big fan of the Amalfi coast. Whatever it is, it works for her as she constructed a set of clothes that are ethereal and light, loose and delicate in their silhouettes conjuring up nothing Swedish apart from the name. Nautical White to shades of prints in colored maze gives the collection the necessary 'gone fishing' vibe and provides a visual getaway for not only in Sweden suffering from the scandi-weather, but also in new york which is suffering from the cold sweet tooth of winter. This is escapism at it's most loose and finest.   

Tailored for the Streets by Armani

by Oksana Petrova

The highs and lows of streetwear are well documented. But what has been a consistent force within styling of streetwear is the notion of deconstruction. But that tide is slowly turning and streetwear is becoming more tailored, more structured. And Armani has noticed this wind of change. This pre-fall collection is an acknowledgment of that shift. A push towards a more dynamic, colorful collection with the foundation of a structured silhouettes is the primary thing to take in here from this exquisite collection. Armani is not reinventing itself, it is just becoming more relevant.

Alberta Ferretti and the Call of the Evolved Couture

by Sylvia Mathews

Alberta Ferretti built her empire on the foundation of light and flowy couture. From flexible silhouettes to shinny silk, her work has remained consistent and consistently good. So she would be in no hurry to change things up. But as it is with artists they rarely follow the safest route. And this Haute Couture collection is Alberta’s plunge into the unknown…into the structured silhouettes and more minimalist expressions of joy. All the other things that make her work standout still remain intact making this a collection worth savoring. Evolution always is.

Antonio Berardi and the Pursuit of Precision

by Lotus Ladegaard

Antonio Berardi was fast-tracked into a fashion career when he studied at the prestigious Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, meanwhile working as John Galliano’s assistant. He graduated in 1994 with a noticeable collection which attracted London buyers such as Liberty and A La Mode. He launched his first professional collection the following season. Unlike may other fashion houses, Antonio Berardi’s eponymous house is run completely autonomous due to the designer’s sense for not only fashion, but also manufacturing and business. 

Antonio Berardi has become synonymous with sensual figure-hugging dresses and classic silhouettes. He focusses much on the manufacturing techniques and is not afraid to try out new ones, he also works with advanced fabrics and plays with them. Drawing on influences from many different genres and disciplines from arts to his Sicilian heritage, he always manages to create pieces that collaborate with the female form and enhances it. 

For Resort 2019, the UK born designer presented an interesting and fabulous lookbook that is bound to take fashion editors by storm around the world. It might not be the most glamorous, however, it feels fresh, real and each look stands out. The colour palette was vibrant and fresh with multi-coloured prints, stripes, yellow as well as more subdued tones like dusty and dark green, grey and a pale blue. The silhouettes offered a little bit of everything from fitted and tailored dresses to easy-to-wear dresses. 

Antonio Berardi is a master when it comes to cut and precision, he knows how to construct garments to enhance the female form and every single look has been worked to perfection by him. In such a lookbook most looks stand out and make an impact, especially the burnt printed caftan in chiffon and the multi-coloured striped suit. The oversized yellow dress with pleated skirt felt fresh and youthful while still remaining luxurious and glamorous. The grey/white ruffled top with grey skirt was another exquisite look that showcased his eye for details. Another very stylish look was the layered look with grey trousers and tops with extra length and width at the back as well as little bolero jacket in a busy print. 

Antonio Berardi has created a very fresh, relatable and interesting Resort collection that will take fashion editors around the globe by storm. It will appeal to all his fans and might even pull out a few new ones. 
 

The Polity of Petar Petrov

by Lotus Ladegaard

Ukrainian-born designer Petar Petrov started his career in Men’s Wear, however, he quickly began designing for Austrian socialites and sophisticated women, and the many formal events the Austrian capital has to offer. In 2009, he founded his eponymous label focussing on creating timeless pieces with a feminine silhouette and impeccable tailoring. He studied fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under Raf Simons and has also enjoyed tutoring from the design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who is behind the brand Viktor & Rolf. He has built his brand on word to mouth, shooting most of his collection at his very own Viennese apartment. He has accomplished quite the popularity by using just influencers and having the right clientele. Whether or not that strategy is sustainable is anyone's guess but so far he has made the right decisions at the right time. 

For Resort 2019, Petar Petrov presented a rather androgynous collection filled with tailored dresses and suiting. The colour palette was fairly simple and featured classic black and white along with a few colours both subtle and bold and a variety of prints. The silhouettes were tailored and androgynous with a feminine flair. The collection as a whole is interesting and features some stand-out pieces that is bound to excite women looking for versatile pieces. 

His eye for tailoring truly shines when it comes to suiting, and while some of the silhouettes are somewhat androgynous, he still manages to highlight and accent the female curves. The dresses are flowy, and one can almost imagine their movement, although many are starting to expect a real show where the dresses truly come to life from the Bulgarian raised designer. 

The polka-dotted maxi dress in black and white is exquisite, easy-to-wear and easy to imagine a socialite wearing at their preferred resort. The bold orange snake-printed dress was another standout and will work well for many occasions. 

The many high-waisted trousers with incorporated belts were also exquisite and felt contemporary and classy. The black suit with oversized shirt also stood out among the suiting pieces as well as the pink suit with a lighter tone shirt with long sass from the neckline. 

Overall, Petar Petrov delivered a promising Resort 2019 collection that will take his followers by storm and might win over new ones.
 

Conquering Color with Diane Von Furstenberg

by Lotus Ladegaard

Scotsman Jonathan Saunders joined DVF almost a year ago and he has made quite the impact with fashion editors and fashionistas alike with his bias-cut floral prints, vibrant colours and youthful take on the brand’s aesthetics. Saunders excited with a Pre-fall and a SS17 collection that paid homage to the iconic brand known for its 70’ies wrap dresses fused with contemporary ease and style, his Resort 2018 collection will, no doubt, excite just as many and win a lot of admirers outside the usual circles of fashion forward people.

The DVF Resort 2018 collection is vibrant, colourful, bold and exciting. New silhouettes and cuts have been added while it still builds on the prior SS17 and Pre-fall collection. It is due in November and thus Saunders has experimented with a few holiday items with jewel-toned velvet stripe as well as a layered printed slip over fine-gauge knit. Jackets, coats and pants were also part of the collection in different cut and style to suit many women.

DVF is known for its summer dresses and Jonathan Saunders exceeds his previous collection with several dresses that will excite DVF fans and even attract new ones. The purple floral printed dress in ruched silk is going to be a crownd-favourite. Though the cut is not for all shapes, it is a sexy little dress that will work for many occasions. Another hot ticket item is the multi-coloured striped dress with cape, it is classic yet modern and never fails to exude DVF. The dresses, in general, have a youthful and modern feel to them which will win over many of the younger fashionistas.

Jonathan Saunders has successfully attracted new fans and followers with his unique eye and take on the brand’s aesthetics, yet managed to hold onto its loyal followers. And that in fashion circles is a job well done. 

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Standing Out with Étoile Isabel Marant

by Lotus Ladegaard

Originally launched as Twen, the French fashion house Isabel Marant has been around since 90s. In its early beginnings, the brand only featured a line of jersey and knitwear but has since moved on to consist of several lines including Men’s Wear and the more affordable and casual line Etoile. Designer Isabel Marant collaborated with H&M on a collection, which sold out in minutes online and caused the website to crash. Although the French designer has faced many challenges in recent years, she has persevered and continue to create exciting and bold collections.

For Spring 19, Isabel Marant has created an Etoile floral and ruffled collection with adorable and interesting pieces that certainly will appeal to a world of her loyal followers. It is feminine, contemporary and feels fresh and thus will speak to young fashionistas. The collection features a bundle of separates that will easily be adapted into most existing wardrobes. The colour palette was anything but simple, but instead had a little of everything along with many floral prints. The silhouettes were sleek and tailored and offered pieces for most occasions. 

Isabel Marant knows how to make her pieces stand out and offer fashionable alternatives, so it is no surprise that her Etoile Spring 19 collection had it all. Several pieces and looks stood out like the blue shirt almost resembling a vest with red sleeves styled with cut-out trousers, and the pastel dress with ruffled shoulders and slightly puffed sleeves gathered at the waist. Some of the subtler pieces also stood out like the grey blazer styled with a white detailed shirt and cut-out shorts, and the flowy floral dress in dark brown and burnt orange. A few pieces felt somewhat boring and unimportant, however, overall Isabel Marant delivered a beautiful Etoile Spring 19 collection that will excite many.

Isabel Marant knows women want to stand out and dressed in her garments, they are bound to do exactly that in this collection.
 

Valentino's Retro Futurism

by Linda Bezos

Pierpaolo Piccioli loves the street. Street styles from New York to Rome are his muses. Valentino's foray into its Resort collection is a canvas of eclecticism. It is filled with broody bourgeoise charm of 70's Rome. Art Deco to Baroque styles all invade the visual exploration of Piccioli's work. It is a collection brimming with cool and 'devil may care' sort of clarity. And by incorporating classic Valentino logos almost as a gonzo method, he foretells a future where classic brands like Valentino evolves to move forward, evolves to survive and prosper. Piccioli is a master at predicting where the market is heading and this surely is one of his more astute and nuanced collection within that realm of retro-futurism.  

Too Hot for Couture with Inbal Dror

by Samantha Arnold

Inbal Dror has built up a reputation of outright excellence for her Haute Couture collection. And her current bridal collection stands heavily yet confidently on that reputation. From front slits and plunging necklines to shimmery beads, often tempered by traditional ball skirts and long sleeves, this collection is for the modern bride and on the move celebrity. The details make the collection but it is lines and silhouette that builds the foundation of this wonderfully intricate series of dresses. This collection stands out as not only because of it's exquisite nature but also Inbal's willingness to create something more approachable for the less famous brides. 

Love in Lisbon with Galia Lahav

By Andrea Arjento

Galia Lahav’s head designer Sharon Sever took on Lisbon at it’s most clear and most enigmatic and unfurled a set of gowns worthy for a torrid love affair that is their inspiration. While it may seem counter-intuitive to have bridal gowns as an homage to torrid love affairs on paper, the reality is all love affairs worth writing about has a certain element of torrid-ness to it. And Sharon is able to weave that element of variability into a fairytale that looks wonderfully complex and elegant. This specific collection has all the signature Galia Lahav details but in many ways, it is also the most realistic exploration of the fairytales we tell ourselves. And for that, we are in love with Galia Lahav's Lisbon collection.

Fall Foliage with Osman

by Irene Bisset

Osman Yousefzada has built a reputation of undeniable envy through flattering silhouettes infused forward thinking clothing. While he has never ventured into the outright avant-garde his work is a beautiful bridge between commercially successful and stylistically ambition aesthetics. This collection is built on that foundation. Floral Prints, ruffles, sheer fabrics all take their respective places in Osman’s universe as he fashions the fashion into accessible yet exclusive heights. From leathery skirts to shimmery dresses the collection feels complete and precise with it’s brevity just like Osman’s work.

Photographs Courtesy of Osman

The Second Coming of Luisa Beccaria

by Amanda Hanson

Luisa Beccaria and Couture have always had an intricate relationship. Despite not having a proper couture collection since 1995, her work has always coat-tailed along couture among the more hip crowd. The ever-present sense of femininity with a dash of ethereal whimsy is the foundation of Luisa’s work and that is translated into a universal language of high couture in this collection. Unlike the plethora of haute couture houses who view “more as more”, Luisa focuses more on the personal experience of wearing couture… of looking at couture as the vehicle of supreme individuality. And for that, it is a great joy to welcome her back.

Americana by Adam Lippes

By Lotus Ladegaard

Adam Lippes began his career at Polo Ralph Lauren, and soon found himself at the cusp of greatness as he joined Oscar de la Renta, and became the youngest Creative Director of any Fashion house around. In 2014, he founded his eponymous brand with a play on American sportswear with unassuming elegance and understated designs. His designs are known for its ease and details.

For AW19, Adam Lippes presented an interesting collection that will excite his followers and undoubtedly be noticed by fashion editors. It is understated, detailed and feels fresh and easy. The silhouettes featured easy-to-wear as well as more fitted pieces. The color palette offered a little bit of everything from basic black and white tones to pastels tones and bold yellow and red along with a few busy burgundy red prints.

Several looks stood out while the collection also had a few less flattering looks. Among the stand-out pieces were a white high collar blouse styled with a fitted pair of black trousers which oozed of a distinct sense of style . Also, the burgundy red printed two-piece set with a dark beige cape stood out and made a strong impression.

Pieces like the yellow ruffled chiffon dress and the yellow ruffled blouse styled with a pair of dark army green shorts along with a pastel-colored ruffled chiffon blouse styled with tartan printed skirt were less flattering to a woman’s body, and thus not the most successful ones.

But Adam Lippes know how to design and tweak American sportswear into high fashion such as the lime green easy-to-wear dress and the burgundy red dress with multi-colored hemline styled with a coat in the same print along with the long red silk dress.

It is easy to spot why Adam Lippes has made a name for himself with his eye for details and play on American Sportswear. And this collection further establishes his own sense of aesthetics as a formidable commentary on Americana.

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection.